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It's hard to know what to do in the moment, <strong>but staying calm is key<\/strong>. \ud83e\udd0c\n\nSeizures happen for all sorts of reasons, from epilepsy to low blood sugar or even something your dog might have eaten. While it's always a shock, knowing how to handle a seizure can help keep your pup safe and prevent further harm.\n\nIn this detailed guide, we'll cover what to do during and after a seizure, how to stop seizures in dogs immediately, when to call the vet, and how to reduce the risk of future episodes.\n\n<h2>What are dog seizures?<\/h2>\nA seizure is a sudden, uncontrolled burst of electrical activity in the brain. This can cause a range of physical reactions, from full-body convulsions to brief moments of disorientation. Some dogs collapse and shake violently, while others simply stare blankly or lose control of their movements.\n\nSeizures can vary in length and severity. Some last only a few seconds, while others go on for minutes and leave your dog confused or unsteady afterwards.\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/dJ7YljnScZw\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<h3>What does a dog seizure look like?<\/h3>\nSeizures can be dramatic and distressing to witness, especially if you've never seen one before. \n\nIf you're wondering, \"what do seizures look like in a dog?\", the answer depends on the type and severity of the seizure.\n\n<h4>Generalised (grand mal) seizures<\/h4>\nThis is the most common and recognisable type of seizure. It affects the whole body and usually follows a pattern:\n\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Pre-ictal phase (aura)<\/strong><br>\nBefore the seizure, your dog may seem restless, confused, or anxious. They might pace, drool, or seek attention.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Ictal phase (seizure itself)<\/strong><br>\nThe dog collapses, loses consciousness, and starts convulsing. Their legs may paddle, their jaw might clench, and they may drool excessively, whimper, or even lose control of their bladder or bowels.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Post-ictal phase (recovery)<\/strong><br>\nAfter the seizure stops, your dog may be disoriented, unsteady on their feet, or temporarily blind. Some dogs pace, whine, or seem exhausted for minutes to hours afterward.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n<h4>Focal seizures<\/h4>\nFocal seizures only affect one part of the brain, so the symptoms are less obvious. Instead of full-body convulsions, you might notice:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>Twitching or spasms in the face, ears, or limbs.\n\t<li>Repetitive chewing motions or lip smacking.\n\t<li>Sudden head shaking or jerking movements.\n\t<li>Unusual behaviour, like snapping at invisible objects.\n<\/ul>\n\nFocal seizures can sometimes escalate into generalised seizures if the abnormal brain activity spreads.\n\n<h4>Absence (petit mal) seizures<\/h4>\nLess common in dogs, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogileptic.com\/post\/can-dogs-have-absence-seizures\" target=\"_blank\">absence seizures<\/a> look like brief moments of zoning out. Your dog may suddenly freeze, stare blankly, and become unresponsive for a few seconds before snapping back to normal. Unlike other seizures, there are no convulsions or dramatic movements.\n\nAlthough any type of canine seizure is alarming, the seizures themselves aren't painful - <strong>but they can be dangerous if your dog falls, injures themselves, or has multiple episodes in a short period<\/strong>.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/signs-of-epilepsy-in-dogs-infographic.jpg\" alt=\"Signs of epilepsy in dogs\">\n\t<figcaption>Credit: Vetic<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h2>What causes seizures in dogs?<\/h2>\nSeizures in dogs can be triggered by a range of underlying issues, from genetic conditions to external factors like toxins or illness. Some seizures are a one-off event, while others become a recurring problem that needs long-term management. Understanding the possible causes can help you take the right steps to protect your dog's health.\n\n<h4>Idiopathic epilepsy<\/h4>\nThe most common cause of seizures in dogs is idiopathic epilepsy - a neurological condition that leads to repeated seizures with no clear trigger. It's often inherited and usually appears in young to middle-aged dogs.\n\nIdiopathic epilepsy tends to run in certain breeds, including:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>Border Collies<\/li>\n\t<li>Labrador Retrievers<\/li>\n\t<li>Golden Retrievers<\/li>\n\t<li>Beagles<\/li>\n\t<li>German Shepherds<\/li>\n\t<li>Belgian Malinois<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nIf a dog has idiopathic epilepsy, their brain has a lower seizure threshold, meaning their neurons are more likely to misfire and trigger a seizure. Nobody fully understands what causes epilepsy in dogs but it's thought to be a mix of genetics and subtle biochemical imbalances in the brain. \ud83e\udde0\n\nWhile idiopathic epilepsy can't be cured, it can often be managed with medication to reduce the frequency and severity of seizures.\n\n<h4>Toxins and poisoning<\/h4>\nCertain substances can trigger seizures if ingested, including:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li><a href=\"\/blog\/death-by-chocolate-why-easter-can-be-dangerous-for-dogs\">Chocolate<\/a>. \ud83c\udf6b<\/li>\n\t<li>Xylitol (found in sugar-free gum and sweets). \ud83c\udf6c<\/li>\n\t<li>Grapes and raisins. \ud83c\udf47<\/li>\n\t<li>Some human medications (e.g., ibuprofen and antidepressants). \ud83d\udc8a<\/li>\n\t<li>Pesticides and rodenticides. \ud83d\udc00<\/li>\n\t<li>Certain plants, like azaleas and sago palms. \ud83e\udeb4<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nIf your dog has a seizure and you suspect they've eaten something toxic, contact a vet immediately. <strong>Acting quickly can make a huge difference in preventing further harm<\/strong>.\n\n<h4>Low blood sugar (hypoglycemia)<\/h4>\nWhen a dog's blood sugar drops too low, it can affect brain function and trigger seizures. This is more common in small breeds, puppies, and diabetic dogs, especially if they've missed a meal or exercised more than usual. If your dog is prone to low blood sugar, feeding them small, frequent meals can help prevent episodes.\n\n<h4>Liver or kidney disease<\/h4>\nBoth the liver and kidneys play a key role in filtering toxins from the body. If they aren't working properly, waste products can build up in the bloodstream and affect brain function, sometimes leading to seizures. This is more common in older dogs or those with conditions like liver shunts or kidney failure.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/labrador-brain.jpg\" alt=\"Labrador brain illustration\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h4>Head trauma and brain injuries<\/h4>\nA past head injury - even one that seemed minor at the time - can sometimes cause seizures later in life. This could be due to scar tissue or long-term changes in brain function. If your dog has had a significant fall, accident, or blow to the head, it's always best to get them checked by a vet.\n\n<h4>Brain tumours<\/h4>\nSeizures in older dogs can sometimes be a sign of a brain tumour. While this sounds alarming, not all tumours are aggressive, and some can be treated with medication, surgery, or radiotherapy. If a dog develops seizures later in life, with no previous history, a vet may recommend imaging tests to check for abnormalities.\n\n<h4>Heatstroke \ud83e\udd75<\/h4>\nOverheating can cause severe neurological symptoms, including seizures. Flat-faced breeds, like Bulldogs and Pugs, are especially vulnerable, as are dogs left in hot environments without shade or water. Preventing heatstroke by avoiding excessive exercise in hot weather and providing plenty of water is crucial. You should never leave a dog unattended in a car unless the vehicle has a dedicated Dog Mode to regulate temperature and ensure their safety.\n\n<h2>What to do if your dog has a seizure<\/h2>\nIf your dog is experiencing a seizure, staying calm and knowing what to do can make a big difference. Seizures often look dramatic, but your priority should be to keep your dog safe and monitor the episode carefully.\n\nSeizures usually last between 30 seconds and two minutes, though they can feel much longer in the moment. While most single seizures aren't life-threatening, <strong>a seizure lasting more than five minutes, or multiple seizures in a row, is a medical emergency and requires immediate veterinary attention<\/strong>.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-seizure-what-to-do-infographic.png\" alt=\"What to do if your dog has a seizure\">\n\t<figcaption>Credit: PDSA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Step-by-step guide to handling a seizure<\/h3>\n<h4>1. Stay calm and check the time \u23f1\ufe0f<\/h4>\nIt's crucial to time the seizure from the moment it starts. Even though it may feel endless, most seizures stop on their own within a couple of minutes. Timing helps you assess severity and provide accurate information to your vet.\n\n<h4>2. Keep your dog safe<\/h4>\nMove furniture, sharp objects, or anything they could injure themselves on out of the way. If they're near stairs or in a dangerous spot, gently slide them onto a safer surface without restraining them.\n\n<h4>3. Do not touch their mouth<\/h4>\nYour dog will not swallow their tongue - this is a common myth. However, trying to hold their mouth open could result in an accidental bite. Let them move naturally without interference.\n\n<h4>4. Dim the lights and reduce noise<\/h4>\nSeizures can make dogs extra sensitive to light and sound. If possible, turn off bright lights, lower background noise, and ask others to stay quiet to create a calm environment.\n\n<h4>5. Record the seizure (if possible) \ud83d\udcf9<\/h4>\nIf you can safely do so, take a short video on your phone. This can help your vet assess the type and severity of the seizure, which is useful for diagnosis and treatment planning.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-being-comforted.jpg\" alt=\"Dog being comforted after seizure\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h4>6. Stay with them and comfort them afterwards<\/h4>\nThe post-seizure (post-ictal) phase can leave dogs confused, disoriented, or temporarily blind. Speak to them gently, offer water, and keep them in a quiet, safe space until they recover fully.\n\n<h4>7. Call your vet if needed \u260e\ufe0f<\/h4>\nIf it's your dog's first seizure, lasts longer than two minutes, or they have multiple seizures close together, contact your vet for advice. They may recommend a check-up or emergency visit, depending on the circumstances. <strong>If the seizure lasts longer than five minutes, seek veterinary care as soon as possible<\/strong>.\n\n<h3>Dos and don'ts during a seizure<\/h3>\n<ul class=\"fa-ul\">\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> stay calm and monitor your dog closely.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> move objects out of the way to prevent injury.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> time the seizure and take a video if possible.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> keep the environment quiet and dimly lit.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> call your vet if it's a long or repeated seizure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul class=\"fa-ul\">\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> try to hold your dog down or stop their movements.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> put your hands near their mouth - they may bite unintentionally.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> try to force water, food, or medication into their mouth.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> panic - most seizures resolve on their own in under two minutes.<\/li>\n\t<li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> assume it's a one-time event, as seizures can be a sign of underlying health issues.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h2>When is a seizure an emergency?<\/h2>\nNot all seizures require urgent medical attention, but some situations can quickly become life-threatening.\n\nKnowing when to act and seek urgent veterinary treatment can make a crucial difference in your dog's safety and recovery.\n\n<h3>Seizures lasting more than two minutes<\/h3>\nWe recommend you contact your veterinarian if your dog is experiencing a seizure longer than two minutes in length.\n\nA seizure that continues for more than five minutes - known as status epilepticus - is an immediate emergency.\n\nThe longer a seizure lasts, the higher the risk of:\n<ul>\n\t<li>Brain damage due to prolonged abnormal electrical activity.<\/li>\n\t<li>Dangerous rises in body temperature, leading to potential organ damage.<\/li>\n\t<li>Oxygen deprivation, which can cause lasting harm to the brain and other tissues.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nIf your dog is still seizing after five minutes, or if they show no sign of recovery between episodes, <strong>get them to a vet immediately<\/strong>. Don't hesitate to call the emergency vet out-of-hours.\n\n<h3>Multiple seizures in a short time (cluster seizures)<\/h3>\nIf your dog has two or more seizures within 24 hours, or experiences multiple seizures without regaining full awareness in between, these are classed as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com\/cluster-seizures-in-dogs\/\" target=\"_blank\">cluster seizures<\/a>. They can escalate quickly and lead to status epilepticus. Even if the individual seizures are short, repeated episodes put enormous strain on the brain and body. A vet may need to administer emergency medication to break the cycle and prevent further seizures.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-fitting-epileptic-seizure.jpg\" alt=\"Dog experiencing epileptic seizure\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Breathing issues or cyanosis<\/h3>\nDuring a seizure, your dog may momentarily stop breathing, but they should quickly start again as the seizure resolves. If you notice:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>Laboured breathing or gasping after the seizure ends.<\/li>\n\t<li>Blue or pale gums\/tongue (a sign of oxygen deprivation). <\/li>\n\t<li>Weakness or collapse after the seizure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nThis could indicate a serious complication, such as fluid buildup in the lungs (aspiration pneumonia) or underlying neurological distress. <strong>Seek veterinary help immediately<\/strong>.\n\n<h3>Seizures in puppies, seniors, or sick dogs<\/h3>\nWhile epilepsy may not always pose a significant risk to otherwise healthy young adult dogs, seizures in certain groups can signal a more serious problem:\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Puppies<\/strong> \ud83d\udc15<br>\nSeizures may be due to infections, congenital conditions, or blood sugar imbalances.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Senior dogs<\/strong> \ud83d\udc29<br>\nA sudden seizure in an older dog can indicate a stroke, brain tumour, or organ failure.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Dogs with known medical conditions<\/strong><br>\nSeizures can be a symptom of worsening liver disease, kidney disease, or diabetes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nIf your dog falls into any of these categories and has a seizure, it's safest to get them checked by a vet.\n\n<h3>Seizures after suspected toxin exposure<\/h3>\nAs discussed earlier, certain toxins can trigger seizures, and in these cases, the seizures won't stop until the poison is treated.\n\nIf your dog has a seizure and you suspect poisoning (or see evidence of chewed-up food, pills, or plants), <strong>they require immediate veterinary attention<\/strong>.\n\nCommon culprits include:\n<ul>\n\t<li>Chocolate, xylitol, and certain fruits (e.g., grapes, raisins).<\/li>\n\t<li>Rodent poison and pesticides.<\/li>\n\t<li>Human medications like ibuprofen, antidepressants, and blood pressure tablets.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>A first-time seizure<\/h3>\nIf your dog has never had a seizure before, it's always a good idea to get them checked by a vet. Even if the seizure is brief, it could be the first sign of an underlying health issue. A veterinary exam and possible blood tests or imaging can help determine if treatment is needed.\n\n<h3>What to do in an emergency \ud83d\udea8<\/h3>\n<ul>\n\t<li>Time the seizure and if it lasts more than five minutes, call the vet immediately.<\/li>\n\t<li>Ensure a safe environment by moving objects out of the way to prevent injury.<\/li>\n\t<li>Check for breathing issues and if your dog struggles to breathe or turns blue, seek emergency care.<\/li>\n\t<li>Contact your vet or emergency clinic, providing the details of the seizure, how long it lasted, and any unusual symptoms.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nWhile many seizures resolve on their own, some situations require urgent action. Knowing the warning signs can help you respond quickly and keep your dog safe.\n\n<h2>How to treat seizures in dogs<\/h2>\nSeizures can be frightening, but with the right treatment, many dogs can lead normal, happy lives.\n\nTreatment focuses on managing seizures, reducing their frequency and severity, and addressing any underlying causes.\n\nWhile some dogs may have only a single seizure with no recurrence whatsoever, others require long-term medical intervention to keep their condition under control.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dachshund-at-vets.jpg\" alt=\"Dachshund getting treatment at the vets\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Emergency treatment for seizures \ud83c\udd98<\/h3>\nIf your dog has a prolonged seizure (lasting over five minutes) or multiple seizures in a short period, they will need immediate veterinary care.\n\nEmergency treatment typically involves:\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Intravenous (IV) medication<\/strong><br>\nDrugs like diazepam (Valium), midazolam, or levetiracetam are used to stop an ongoing seizure.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Oxygen therapy<\/strong><br>\nIf breathing is compromised, oxygen support may be necessary.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Cooling measures<\/strong> \ud83e\uddca<br>\nIf the seizure has caused overheating (or was caused by overheating), vets may apply cool fluids or fans to prevent further heat-related complications.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Hospital monitoring<\/strong> \ud83c\udfe5<br>\nDogs with prolonged or cluster seizures may need to stay in a veterinary hospital for further observation and stabilisation.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nIf a toxin or metabolic issue is the cause, treatment will focus on removing the toxin or correcting the underlying imbalance (e.g., glucose for hypoglycemia).\n\n<h3>Long-term management of seizures<\/h3>\nFor dogs diagnosed with epilepsy or another chronic seizure condition, daily medication is often necessary. Anti-seizure drugs help reduce seizure frequency and severity, though they don't cure the condition.\n\n<h4>Common anti-seizure medications<\/h4>\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Phenobarbital<\/strong><br>\nOne of the most commonly prescribed drugs, effective but requires regular blood tests to monitor liver function.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Potassium Bromide<\/strong><br>Often used alongside phenobarbital or as an alternative, especially in dogs with liver concerns.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Levetiracetam (Keppra)<\/strong><br>A newer option with fewer side effects, often used for dogs that don't tolerate traditional medications.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Zonisamide<\/strong><br>Another alternative, useful for dogs who need additional seizure control with fewer side effects.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nNot all dogs need medication after a single seizure. Vets typically recommend starting long-term treatment if:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>Seizures occur more than once every 2-3 months.<\/li>\n\t<li>The dog has cluster seizures (multiple in a short period).<\/li>\n\t<li>Seizures are severe or prolonged.<\/li>\n\t<li>The underlying cause is progressive (e.g., a brain tumour).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nOnce a dog starts anti-seizure medication, it must be given consistently. Stopping medication suddenly can trigger severe rebound seizures, which can be life-threatening.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-seizure-treatment-infographic.png\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-seizure-treatment-infographic.png\" alt=\"Dog seizure treatment options\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Credit: Bark For More<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Dog seizure diary \ud83d\udcd3<\/h3>\nWe'd also recommend you complete a dog seizure diary, so you can monitor your dog's condition and communicate any changes to your veterinarian. Since seizures can be unpredictable, tracking them helps identify patterns, triggers, and whether treatment is working.\n\nEach time your dog has a seizure, record the following details in the dog seizure diary:\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Date and time<\/strong> \ud83d\uddd3\ufe0f<br>\nHelps track frequency and whether seizures occur at specific times.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Duration<\/strong> \u23f1\ufe0f<br>\nKnowing how long the seizure lasts is crucial for assessing severity.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Symptoms<\/strong><br>\nNote whether it was a full-body (generalised) seizure, a focal seizure, or an absence seizure.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Possible triggers<\/strong><br>\nWas there excitement, stress, flashing lights, or a recent meal change?<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Post-seizure recovery<\/strong><br>\nHow long did it take for your dog to return to normal? Were they disoriented, restless, or weak?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nIf possible, take a short video of the seizure to share with your vet. This helps them assess the type of seizure and adjust treatment if needed. A well-maintained seizure diary can improve management decisions, making it easier to track progress and detect worsening symptoms early.\n\n<h3>Diet and lifestyle adjustments<\/h3>\nWhile medication is the main treatment, lifestyle changes can help reduce seizure triggers:\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Maintain a consistent routine<\/strong><br>\nSudden changes in sleep, food, or stress levels can increase seizure risk.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Avoid known triggers<\/strong><br>\nSome dogs have triggers like flashing lights, loud noises, or excitement that can bring on a seizure.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Provide a balanced diet<\/strong> \ud83e\uddb4<br>\nSome <a href=\"https:\/\/pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/articles\/PMC10144861\/\" target=\"_blank\">research<\/a> suggests that ketogenic diets (high in fat, low in carbs) may help some epileptic dogs, though more studies are needed.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Use supplements (if advised by your vet)<\/strong><br>\nSome dogs benefit from omega-3 fatty acids, MCT oil, or CBD oil, though these should only be introduced under veterinary supervision.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Regular vet check-ups<\/strong> \u2705<br>\nDogs on seizure medication need regular monitoring to ensure the drugs are effective and not causing harmful side effects. Routine blood tests help assess liver function, medication levels, and overall health. If seizures become more frequent despite medication, your vet may adjust the dosage or switch medications.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-rolling-grass.jpg\" alt=\"Dog rolling on grass\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h2>How to stop seizures in dogs immediately \u203c\ufe0f<\/h2>\n<strong>The only way to stop an ongoing seizure immediately is with fast-acting medication such as diazepam (Valium), midazolam, or levetiracetam.<\/strong> These drugs work by calming abnormal electrical activity in the brain, bringing the seizure to an end.\n\nIf your dog is experiencing a prolonged or severe seizure, a veterinarian can administer these medications via injection or intravenously. However, if your dog has a history of seizures, your vet may prescribe rectal or intranasal diazepam for you to use at home in an emergency. These formulations are absorbed quickly and can help stop a seizure before it escalates.\n\nIf your dog has a seizure that lasts more than five minutes or multiple seizures close together, seek emergency veterinary care immediately - even if medication has been given. Emergency intervention may still be needed to stabilise your dog and prevent further seizures.\n\n<h2>Can seizures be cured?<\/h2>\nIf the seizures are caused by a treatable condition, such as toxin exposure, an infection, or a metabolic issue, treating the root cause can stop the seizures entirely.\n\nHowever, idiopathic epilepsy and some neurological disorders require lifelong management rather than a cure.\n\nWith the right treatment, many dogs with epilepsy live full and happy lives. Understanding their condition, following veterinary advice, and managing their environment can make a huge difference to their well-being. \ud83d\udc36","html":"<p>Seeing your dog have a seizure can be absolutely terrifying. One moment, they're fine - then suddenly, they collapse, twitch, or freeze up, completely unresponsive. It's hard to know what to do in the moment, <strong>but staying calm is key<\/strong>. \ud83e\udd0c<\/p>\n<p>Seizures happen for all sorts of reasons, from epilepsy to low blood sugar or even something your dog might have eaten. While it's always a shock, knowing how to handle a seizure can help keep your pup safe and prevent further harm.<\/p>\n<p>In this detailed guide, we'll cover what to do during and after a seizure, how to stop seizures in dogs immediately, when to call the vet, and how to reduce the risk of future episodes.<\/p>\n<h2>What are dog seizures?<\/h2>\n<p>A seizure is a sudden, uncontrolled burst of electrical activity in the brain. This can cause a range of physical reactions, from full-body convulsions to brief moments of disorientation. Some dogs collapse and shake violently, while others simply stare blankly or lose control of their movements.<\/p>\n<p>Seizures can vary in length and severity. Some last only a few seconds, while others go on for minutes and leave your dog confused or unsteady afterwards.<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/dJ7YljnScZw\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h3>What does a dog seizure look like?<\/h3>\n<p>Seizures can be dramatic and distressing to witness, especially if you've never seen one before. <\/p>\n<p>If you're wondering, &quot;what do seizures look like in a dog?&quot;, the answer depends on the type and severity of the seizure.<\/p>\n<h4>Generalised (grand mal) seizures<\/h4>\n<p>This is the most common and recognisable type of seizure. It affects the whole body and usually follows a pattern:<\/p>\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Pre-ictal phase (aura)<\/strong><br>\nBefore the seizure, your dog may seem restless, confused, or anxious. They might pace, drool, or seek attention.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Ictal phase (seizure itself)<\/strong><br>\nThe dog collapses, loses consciousness, and starts convulsing. Their legs may paddle, their jaw might clench, and they may drool excessively, whimper, or even lose control of their bladder or bowels.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Post-ictal phase (recovery)<\/strong><br>\nAfter the seizure stops, your dog may be disoriented, unsteady on their feet, or temporarily blind. Some dogs pace, whine, or seem exhausted for minutes to hours afterward.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h4>Focal seizures<\/h4>\n<p>Focal seizures only affect one part of the brain, so the symptoms are less obvious. Instead of full-body convulsions, you might notice:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Twitching or spasms in the face, ears, or limbs.\n    <li>Repetitive chewing motions or lip smacking.\n    <li>Sudden head shaking or jerking movements.\n    <li>Unusual behaviour, like snapping at invisible objects.\n<\/ul>\n<p>Focal seizures can sometimes escalate into generalised seizures if the abnormal brain activity spreads.<\/p>\n<h4>Absence (petit mal) seizures<\/h4>\n<p>Less common in dogs, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogileptic.com\/post\/can-dogs-have-absence-seizures\" target=\"_blank\">absence seizures<\/a> look like brief moments of zoning out. Your dog may suddenly freeze, stare blankly, and become unresponsive for a few seconds before snapping back to normal. Unlike other seizures, there are no convulsions or dramatic movements.<\/p>\n<p>Although any type of canine seizure is alarming, the seizures themselves aren't painful - <strong>but they can be dangerous if your dog falls, injures themselves, or has multiple episodes in a short period<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/signs-of-epilepsy-in-dogs-infographic.jpg\" alt=\"Signs of epilepsy in dogs\">\n    <figcaption>Credit: Vetic<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h2>What causes seizures in dogs?<\/h2>\n<p>Seizures in dogs can be triggered by a range of underlying issues, from genetic conditions to external factors like toxins or illness. Some seizures are a one-off event, while others become a recurring problem that needs long-term management. Understanding the possible causes can help you take the right steps to protect your dog's health.<\/p>\n<h4>Idiopathic epilepsy<\/h4>\n<p>The most common cause of seizures in dogs is idiopathic epilepsy - a neurological condition that leads to repeated seizures with no clear trigger. It's often inherited and usually appears in young to middle-aged dogs.<\/p>\n<p>Idiopathic epilepsy tends to run in certain breeds, including:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Border Collies<\/li>\n    <li>Labrador Retrievers<\/li>\n    <li>Golden Retrievers<\/li>\n    <li>Beagles<\/li>\n    <li>German Shepherds<\/li>\n    <li>Belgian Malinois<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If a dog has idiopathic epilepsy, their brain has a lower seizure threshold, meaning their neurons are more likely to misfire and trigger a seizure. Nobody fully understands what causes epilepsy in dogs but it's thought to be a mix of genetics and subtle biochemical imbalances in the brain. \ud83e\udde0<\/p>\n<p>While idiopathic epilepsy can't be cured, it can often be managed with medication to reduce the frequency and severity of seizures.<\/p>\n<h4>Toxins and poisoning<\/h4>\n<p>Certain substances can trigger seizures if ingested, including:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li><a href=\"\/blog\/death-by-chocolate-why-easter-can-be-dangerous-for-dogs\">Chocolate<\/a>. \ud83c\udf6b<\/li>\n    <li>Xylitol (found in sugar-free gum and sweets). \ud83c\udf6c<\/li>\n    <li>Grapes and raisins. \ud83c\udf47<\/li>\n    <li>Some human medications (e.g., ibuprofen and antidepressants). \ud83d\udc8a<\/li>\n    <li>Pesticides and rodenticides. \ud83d\udc00<\/li>\n    <li>Certain plants, like azaleas and sago palms. \ud83e\udeb4<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If your dog has a seizure and you suspect they've eaten something toxic, contact a vet immediately. <strong>Acting quickly can make a huge difference in preventing further harm<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<h4>Low blood sugar (hypoglycemia)<\/h4>\n<p>When a dog's blood sugar drops too low, it can affect brain function and trigger seizures. This is more common in small breeds, puppies, and diabetic dogs, especially if they've missed a meal or exercised more than usual. If your dog is prone to low blood sugar, feeding them small, frequent meals can help prevent episodes.<\/p>\n<h4>Liver or kidney disease<\/h4>\n<p>Both the liver and kidneys play a key role in filtering toxins from the body. If they aren't working properly, waste products can build up in the bloodstream and affect brain function, sometimes leading to seizures. This is more common in older dogs or those with conditions like liver shunts or kidney failure.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/labrador-brain.jpg\" alt=\"Labrador brain illustration\">\n<\/figure>\n<h4>Head trauma and brain injuries<\/h4>\n<p>A past head injury - even one that seemed minor at the time - can sometimes cause seizures later in life. This could be due to scar tissue or long-term changes in brain function. If your dog has had a significant fall, accident, or blow to the head, it's always best to get them checked by a vet.<\/p>\n<h4>Brain tumours<\/h4>\n<p>Seizures in older dogs can sometimes be a sign of a brain tumour. While this sounds alarming, not all tumours are aggressive, and some can be treated with medication, surgery, or radiotherapy. If a dog develops seizures later in life, with no previous history, a vet may recommend imaging tests to check for abnormalities.<\/p>\n<h4>Heatstroke \ud83e\udd75<\/h4>\n<p>Overheating can cause severe neurological symptoms, including seizures. Flat-faced breeds, like Bulldogs and Pugs, are especially vulnerable, as are dogs left in hot environments without shade or water. Preventing heatstroke by avoiding excessive exercise in hot weather and providing plenty of water is crucial. You should never leave a dog unattended in a car unless the vehicle has a dedicated Dog Mode to regulate temperature and ensure their safety.<\/p>\n<h2>What to do if your dog has a seizure<\/h2>\n<p>If your dog is experiencing a seizure, staying calm and knowing what to do can make a big difference. Seizures often look dramatic, but your priority should be to keep your dog safe and monitor the episode carefully.<\/p>\n<p>Seizures usually last between 30 seconds and two minutes, though they can feel much longer in the moment. While most single seizures aren't life-threatening, <strong>a seizure lasting more than five minutes, or multiple seizures in a row, is a medical emergency and requires immediate veterinary attention<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-seizure-what-to-do-infographic.png\" alt=\"What to do if your dog has a seizure\">\n    <figcaption>Credit: PDSA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Step-by-step guide to handling a seizure<\/h3>\n<h4>1. Stay calm and check the time \u23f1\ufe0f<\/h4>\n<p>It's crucial to time the seizure from the moment it starts. Even though it may feel endless, most seizures stop on their own within a couple of minutes. Timing helps you assess severity and provide accurate information to your vet.<\/p>\n<h4>2. Keep your dog safe<\/h4>\n<p>Move furniture, sharp objects, or anything they could injure themselves on out of the way. If they're near stairs or in a dangerous spot, gently slide them onto a safer surface without restraining them.<\/p>\n<h4>3. Do not touch their mouth<\/h4>\n<p>Your dog will not swallow their tongue - this is a common myth. However, trying to hold their mouth open could result in an accidental bite. Let them move naturally without interference.<\/p>\n<h4>4. Dim the lights and reduce noise<\/h4>\n<p>Seizures can make dogs extra sensitive to light and sound. If possible, turn off bright lights, lower background noise, and ask others to stay quiet to create a calm environment.<\/p>\n<h4>5. Record the seizure (if possible) \ud83d\udcf9<\/h4>\n<p>If you can safely do so, take a short video on your phone. This can help your vet assess the type and severity of the seizure, which is useful for diagnosis and treatment planning.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-being-comforted.jpg\" alt=\"Dog being comforted after seizure\">\n<\/figure>\n<h4>6. Stay with them and comfort them afterwards<\/h4>\n<p>The post-seizure (post-ictal) phase can leave dogs confused, disoriented, or temporarily blind. Speak to them gently, offer water, and keep them in a quiet, safe space until they recover fully.<\/p>\n<h4>7. Call your vet if needed \u260e\ufe0f<\/h4>\n<p>If it's your dog's first seizure, lasts longer than two minutes, or they have multiple seizures close together, contact your vet for advice. They may recommend a check-up or emergency visit, depending on the circumstances. <strong>If the seizure lasts longer than five minutes, seek veterinary care as soon as possible<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<h3>Dos and don'ts during a seizure<\/h3>\n<ul class=\"fa-ul\">\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> stay calm and monitor your dog closely.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> move objects out of the way to prevent injury.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> time the seizure and take a video if possible.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> keep the environment quiet and dimly lit.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-check\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DO<\/strong> call your vet if it's a long or repeated seizure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul class=\"fa-ul\">\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> try to hold your dog down or stop their movements.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> put your hands near their mouth - they may bite unintentionally.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> try to force water, food, or medication into their mouth.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> panic - most seizures resolve on their own in under two minutes.<\/li>\n    <li><span class=\"fa-li\"><i class=\"fas fa-times\"><\/i><\/span><strong>DON'T<\/strong> assume it's a one-time event, as seizures can be a sign of underlying health issues.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>When is a seizure an emergency?<\/h2>\n<p>Not all seizures require urgent medical attention, but some situations can quickly become life-threatening.<\/p>\n<p>Knowing when to act and seek urgent veterinary treatment can make a crucial difference in your dog's safety and recovery.<\/p>\n<h3>Seizures lasting more than two minutes<\/h3>\n<p>We recommend you contact your veterinarian if your dog is experiencing a seizure longer than two minutes in length.<\/p>\n<p>A seizure that continues for more than five minutes - known as status epilepticus - is an immediate emergency.<\/p>\n<p>The longer a seizure lasts, the higher the risk of:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Brain damage due to prolonged abnormal electrical activity.<\/li>\n    <li>Dangerous rises in body temperature, leading to potential organ damage.<\/li>\n    <li>Oxygen deprivation, which can cause lasting harm to the brain and other tissues.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If your dog is still seizing after five minutes, or if they show no sign of recovery between episodes, <strong>get them to a vet immediately<\/strong>. Don't hesitate to call the emergency vet out-of-hours.<\/p>\n<h3>Multiple seizures in a short time (cluster seizures)<\/h3>\n<p>If your dog has two or more seizures within 24 hours, or experiences multiple seizures without regaining full awareness in between, these are classed as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com\/cluster-seizures-in-dogs\/\" target=\"_blank\">cluster seizures<\/a>. They can escalate quickly and lead to status epilepticus. Even if the individual seizures are short, repeated episodes put enormous strain on the brain and body. A vet may need to administer emergency medication to break the cycle and prevent further seizures.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-fitting-epileptic-seizure.jpg\" alt=\"Dog experiencing epileptic seizure\">\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Breathing issues or cyanosis<\/h3>\n<p>During a seizure, your dog may momentarily stop breathing, but they should quickly start again as the seizure resolves. If you notice:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Laboured breathing or gasping after the seizure ends.<\/li>\n    <li>Blue or pale gums\/tongue (a sign of oxygen deprivation). <\/li>\n    <li>Weakness or collapse after the seizure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>This could indicate a serious complication, such as fluid buildup in the lungs (aspiration pneumonia) or underlying neurological distress. <strong>Seek veterinary help immediately<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<h3>Seizures in puppies, seniors, or sick dogs<\/h3>\n<p>While epilepsy may not always pose a significant risk to otherwise healthy young adult dogs, seizures in certain groups can signal a more serious problem:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Puppies<\/strong> \ud83d\udc15<br>\nSeizures may be due to infections, congenital conditions, or blood sugar imbalances.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Senior dogs<\/strong> \ud83d\udc29<br>\nA sudden seizure in an older dog can indicate a stroke, brain tumour, or organ failure.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Dogs with known medical conditions<\/strong><br>\nSeizures can be a symptom of worsening liver disease, kidney disease, or diabetes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If your dog falls into any of these categories and has a seizure, it's safest to get them checked by a vet.<\/p>\n<h3>Seizures after suspected toxin exposure<\/h3>\n<p>As discussed earlier, certain toxins can trigger seizures, and in these cases, the seizures won't stop until the poison is treated.<\/p>\n<p>If your dog has a seizure and you suspect poisoning (or see evidence of chewed-up food, pills, or plants), <strong>they require immediate veterinary attention<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Common culprits include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Chocolate, xylitol, and certain fruits (e.g., grapes, raisins).<\/li>\n    <li>Rodent poison and pesticides.<\/li>\n    <li>Human medications like ibuprofen, antidepressants, and blood pressure tablets.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>A first-time seizure<\/h3>\n<p>If your dog has never had a seizure before, it's always a good idea to get them checked by a vet. Even if the seizure is brief, it could be the first sign of an underlying health issue. A veterinary exam and possible blood tests or imaging can help determine if treatment is needed.<\/p>\n<h3>What to do in an emergency \ud83d\udea8<\/h3>\n<ul>\n    <li>Time the seizure and if it lasts more than five minutes, call the vet immediately.<\/li>\n    <li>Ensure a safe environment by moving objects out of the way to prevent injury.<\/li>\n    <li>Check for breathing issues and if your dog struggles to breathe or turns blue, seek emergency care.<\/li>\n    <li>Contact your vet or emergency clinic, providing the details of the seizure, how long it lasted, and any unusual symptoms.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>While many seizures resolve on their own, some situations require urgent action. Knowing the warning signs can help you respond quickly and keep your dog safe.<\/p>\n<h2>How to treat seizures in dogs<\/h2>\n<p>Seizures can be frightening, but with the right treatment, many dogs can lead normal, happy lives.<\/p>\n<p>Treatment focuses on managing seizures, reducing their frequency and severity, and addressing any underlying causes.<\/p>\n<p>While some dogs may have only a single seizure with no recurrence whatsoever, others require long-term medical intervention to keep their condition under control.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dachshund-at-vets.jpg\" alt=\"Dachshund getting treatment at the vets\">\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Emergency treatment for seizures \ud83c\udd98<\/h3>\n<p>If your dog has a prolonged seizure (lasting over five minutes) or multiple seizures in a short period, they will need immediate veterinary care.<\/p>\n<p>Emergency treatment typically involves:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Intravenous (IV) medication<\/strong><br>\nDrugs like diazepam (Valium), midazolam, or levetiracetam are used to stop an ongoing seizure.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Oxygen therapy<\/strong><br>\nIf breathing is compromised, oxygen support may be necessary.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Cooling measures<\/strong> \ud83e\uddca<br>\nIf the seizure has caused overheating (or was caused by overheating), vets may apply cool fluids or fans to prevent further heat-related complications.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Hospital monitoring<\/strong> \ud83c\udfe5<br>\nDogs with prolonged or cluster seizures may need to stay in a veterinary hospital for further observation and stabilisation.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If a toxin or metabolic issue is the cause, treatment will focus on removing the toxin or correcting the underlying imbalance (e.g., glucose for hypoglycemia).<\/p>\n<h3>Long-term management of seizures<\/h3>\n<p>For dogs diagnosed with epilepsy or another chronic seizure condition, daily medication is often necessary. Anti-seizure drugs help reduce seizure frequency and severity, though they don't cure the condition.<\/p>\n<h4>Common anti-seizure medications<\/h4>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Phenobarbital<\/strong><br>\nOne of the most commonly prescribed drugs, effective but requires regular blood tests to monitor liver function.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Potassium Bromide<\/strong><br>Often used alongside phenobarbital or as an alternative, especially in dogs with liver concerns.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Levetiracetam (Keppra)<\/strong><br>A newer option with fewer side effects, often used for dogs that don't tolerate traditional medications.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Zonisamide<\/strong><br>Another alternative, useful for dogs who need additional seizure control with fewer side effects.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Not all dogs need medication after a single seizure. Vets typically recommend starting long-term treatment if:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Seizures occur more than once every 2-3 months.<\/li>\n    <li>The dog has cluster seizures (multiple in a short period).<\/li>\n    <li>Seizures are severe or prolonged.<\/li>\n    <li>The underlying cause is progressive (e.g., a brain tumour).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Once a dog starts anti-seizure medication, it must be given consistently. Stopping medication suddenly can trigger severe rebound seizures, which can be life-threatening.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-seizure-treatment-infographic.png\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-seizure-treatment-infographic.png\" alt=\"Dog seizure treatment options\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Credit: Bark For More<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Dog seizure diary \ud83d\udcd3<\/h3>\n<p>We'd also recommend you complete a dog seizure diary, so you can monitor your dog's condition and communicate any changes to your veterinarian. Since seizures can be unpredictable, tracking them helps identify patterns, triggers, and whether treatment is working.<\/p>\n<p>Each time your dog has a seizure, record the following details in the dog seizure diary:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Date and time<\/strong> \ud83d\uddd3\ufe0f<br>\nHelps track frequency and whether seizures occur at specific times.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Duration<\/strong> \u23f1\ufe0f<br>\nKnowing how long the seizure lasts is crucial for assessing severity.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Symptoms<\/strong><br>\nNote whether it was a full-body (generalised) seizure, a focal seizure, or an absence seizure.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Possible triggers<\/strong><br>\nWas there excitement, stress, flashing lights, or a recent meal change?<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Post-seizure recovery<\/strong><br>\nHow long did it take for your dog to return to normal? Were they disoriented, restless, or weak?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If possible, take a short video of the seizure to share with your vet. This helps them assess the type of seizure and adjust treatment if needed. A well-maintained seizure diary can improve management decisions, making it easier to track progress and detect worsening symptoms early.<\/p>\n<h3>Diet and lifestyle adjustments<\/h3>\n<p>While medication is the main treatment, lifestyle changes can help reduce seizure triggers:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Maintain a consistent routine<\/strong><br>\nSudden changes in sleep, food, or stress levels can increase seizure risk.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Avoid known triggers<\/strong><br>\nSome dogs have triggers like flashing lights, loud noises, or excitement that can bring on a seizure.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Provide a balanced diet<\/strong> \ud83e\uddb4<br>\nSome <a href=\"https:\/\/pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/articles\/PMC10144861\/\" target=\"_blank\">research<\/a> suggests that ketogenic diets (high in fat, low in carbs) may help some epileptic dogs, though more studies are needed.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Use supplements (if advised by your vet)<\/strong><br>\nSome dogs benefit from omega-3 fatty acids, MCT oil, or CBD oil, though these should only be introduced under veterinary supervision.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Regular vet check-ups<\/strong> \u2705<br>\nDogs on seizure medication need regular monitoring to ensure the drugs are effective and not causing harmful side effects. Routine blood tests help assess liver function, medication levels, and overall health. If seizures become more frequent despite medication, your vet may adjust the dosage or switch medications.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-rolling-grass.jpg\" alt=\"Dog rolling on grass\">\n<\/figure>\n<h2>How to stop seizures in dogs immediately \u203c\ufe0f<\/h2>\n<p><strong>The only way to stop an ongoing seizure immediately is with fast-acting medication such as diazepam (Valium), midazolam, or levetiracetam.<\/strong> These drugs work by calming abnormal electrical activity in the brain, bringing the seizure to an end.<\/p>\n<p>If your dog is experiencing a prolonged or severe seizure, a veterinarian can administer these medications via injection or intravenously. However, if your dog has a history of seizures, your vet may prescribe rectal or intranasal diazepam for you to use at home in an emergency. These formulations are absorbed quickly and can help stop a seizure before it escalates.<\/p>\n<p>If your dog has a seizure that lasts more than five minutes or multiple seizures close together, seek emergency veterinary care immediately - even if medication has been given. Emergency intervention may still be needed to stabilise your dog and prevent further seizures.<\/p>\n<h2>Can seizures be cured?<\/h2>\n<p>If the seizures are caused by a treatable condition, such as toxin exposure, an infection, or a metabolic issue, treating the root cause can stop the seizures entirely.<\/p>\n<p>However, idiopathic epilepsy and some neurological disorders require lifelong management rather than a cure.<\/p>\n<p>With the right treatment, many dogs with epilepsy live full and happy lives. Understanding their condition, following veterinary advice, and managing their environment can make a huge difference to their well-being. \ud83d\udc36<\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2025-02-01 13:23:41","updated":"2025-02-04 12:56:11","author":"1","category":"5","status":"published","comments":"0"}},{"data":{"id":"60","title":"How Do Dogs Get Fleas? Causes and Prevention Tips","slug":"how-do-dogs-get-fleas-causes-and-prevention-tips","description":"","markdown":"Have you noticed your dog scratching more than usual? Or frantically biting themselves, especially on the base of their tail? Perhaps you can see evidence of hair loss, or red bumps on the skin on their lower legs.\n\nWhile this could be the result of an environmental or health condition, <strong>it's most likely that your dog has fleas - parasites that live in your pooch's fur and feed on their blood<\/strong>. \ud83e\ude78\n\nBlood-sucking parasites are always an unwelcome addition to the family, but armed with some knowledge and a targeted treatment plan, you can help your dog find relief from these pests in no time at all.\n\nKeep reading to learn how to identify fleas, get rid of them quickly and prevent their return.\n\n<h2>What are fleas?<\/h2>\n\nFleas are tiny parasites that live on their host, feed on their blood and make life miserable for dogs (and their owners).\n\nThe type of flea most likely bothering your dog is <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cat_flea\" target=\"_blank\"><em>Ctenocephalides felis<\/em><\/a>, which is better known as the \"cat flea\" \ud83d\ude3f, although it doesn't limit itself to cats \ud83d\ude3c. This pesky insect is happy to latch onto dogs, and even humans in some cases, making it a common nuisance in many households.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/flea-on-dog.jpg\" alt=\"Flea living on dog\">\n<\/figure>\n\nFleas thrive in warm, humid spots, which means they can be active all year round, especially indoors where it's nice and cosy.\n\nThese parasites are tiny - usually between 1 and 3 millimetres long - and reddish-brown, making them hard to see unless you're looking closely. But don't let their small size fool you. Fleas are built to be resilient; their flat bodies allow them to weave through fur, and they've got powerful back legs that help them jump up to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.smorescience.com\/how-far-can-a-flea-jump\/#:~:text=In%20fact%2C%20fleas%20can%20jump,jumping%20up%20to%2019%20inches.\" target=\"_blank\">200 times their body length<\/a>. This impressive leaping ability means they can hop easily from one animal to another, quickly spreading and making themselves at home.\n\nFleas aren't just a mild annoyance as they can cause real discomfort and health issues. Their bites are incredibly itchy, causing dogs to scratch and bite at themselves, which can lead to red, irritated skin and even infections. Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva, which only makes the reaction worse. In severe cases, especially in puppies or smaller dogs, flea infestations can lead to anaemia due to blood loss. And as if that's not enough, fleas can carry other parasites, like tapeworms, that can infect dogs.\n\n<h2>Flea life cycle<\/h2>\n\nThe flea life cycle is a major reason why these little pests are so hard to get rid of, especially when they settle on your dog.\n\nUnderstanding how fleas develop from start to finish is key to breaking the cycle and keeping your dog - and your home - flea-free.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/flea-life-cycle.png\" alt=\"Flea life cycle\">\n<\/figure>\n\nThe flea life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult, and each one plays a role in keeping the infestation going.\n\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Eggs<\/strong> \ud83e\udd5a<br>\nIt all starts with adult fleas feeding on your dog's blood, which they need to reproduce. Once they've had a meal, female fleas can lay up to 50 eggs a day. These eggs don't stick around on your dog; they fall off in the surrounding environment - onto carpets, bedding, and anywhere your dog likes to hang out. This means your dog's favourite spots become potential flea breeding grounds pretty quickly.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Larvae<\/strong> \ud83d\udc1b<br>\nA few days later, the eggs hatch into tiny, worm-like larvae that wiggle their way into dark, hidden spots like deep in carpets, cracks in the floor, or under furniture. They're not after blood just yet; instead, they feed on organic matter and \u201cflea dirt,\u201d which is basically dried flea droppings left behind by the adults. Flea larvae can stay like this for a few weeks, growing quietly and waiting for the next stage.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Pupae<\/strong><br>\nNext comes the pupa stage, where the larvae wrap themselves up in sticky little cocoons. This stage is the most resilient and toughest to deal with. The cocoons are hard to spot and even harder to kill, especially since they can stick to fabrics and bedding. Inside the cocoon, the fleas develop and can stay hidden for months, waiting until they sense a host nearby (like your dog) before they hatch. Warmth, vibrations, and even carbon dioxide from a passing pet or person can trigger them to emerge as adult fleas.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Adults<\/strong><br>\nOnce they're out, the adult fleas are ready to jump onto your dog, feed, and start laying eggs all over again. And just like that, the cycle keeps on going.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\nBreaking the flea cycle means targeting every stage - something we'll cover in detail later.\n\n<h2>Signs your dog has fleas<\/h2>\n\nIf you've noticed your dog scratching more than usual, it could be a sign that fleas have moved in.\n\nFleas aren't just an itchy nuisance; they can make your dog pretty uncomfortable and even lead to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.hartz.com\/flea-related-illnesses-that-affect-your-dog\/\" target=\"_blank\">health issues<\/a> if left untreated.\n\nHere are some key signs to watch for that might mean your dog is dealing with a flea problem.\n\n<h3>Scratching and biting<\/h3>\n\nThe first and most obvious sign is scratching and biting, as fleas bite and feed on your dog's blood, which causes itching.\n\nIf you notice your dog scratching a lot - around the base of the tail, behind the ears, or on the belly - that could be a telltale flea signal. Especially so if they scratch themselves frantically or with a degree of urgency that seems unusual.\n\nSome dogs even nip or bite at their skin in an effort to get rid of the itch, so if you catch your dog frantically gnawing at certain spots, it's worth investigating.\n\n<h3>Red bumps and inflamed skin<\/h3>\n\nAnother sign is red bumps or irritated skin.\n\nFlea bites are irritating on their own, but some dogs are actually allergic to flea saliva, which can make the reaction even worse.\n\nIf you see little red dots on your dog's skin, or if the skin looks inflamed or raw, fleas could be the culprit. Dogs with flea allergies might develop larger patches of irritated skin or even lose some fur from all the scratching and biting. The base of your pooch's tail is one area in particular to keep an eye on.\n\n<h3>Flea dirt \ud83d\udca9<\/h3>\n\nA close inspection can sometimes reveal \u201cflea dirt,\u201d which is basically flea poop.\n\nFlea dirt looks like tiny black or brown specks, usually found around the base of the tail, neck, and belly.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-fur-flea-dirt.jpg\" alt=\"Flea dirt on dog fur\">\n<\/figure>\n\nIf you're not sure whether it's dirt or flea droppings, try placing a few specks on a damp paper towel. Flea dirt will turn reddish-brown when wet since it contains dried blood.\n\nIf you often let your dog sleep on the sofa or your own bed, flea dirt may find its way onto the upholstery or bed sheets. Sleeping in a bed amidst flea poop is something I'm sure we'd all rather avoid.\n\nYou might even catch a glimpse of the fleas themselves. Fleas are small, dark, and move fast, so spotting them isn't easy. Check areas where your dog's fur is thinner, like the belly or inner thighs, as fleas like to hang out there. You can also try running a fine-tooth flea comb through your dog's fur to see if you catch any fleas or flea dirt.\n\nFinally, keep an eye on your home. If you're seeing small, itchy bites on yourself or other pets, or if you notice tiny, jumping insects in your dog's bedding, fleas might be spreading around the place.\n\nEarly detection can save you a lot of trouble, so if you spot any of these signs, it's time to take action to get those fleas out of yours and your dog's life!\n\n<h3>How to check for fleas<\/h3>\n\nIf you suspect fleas, a quick, thorough inspection can confirm it and help you act quickly.\n\nHere's how to check your dog for fleas in a few simple steps:\n\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Prepare your space and gather supplies<\/strong><br>\nSet up in a well-lit area where you can see clearly and ideally somewhere you don't mind cleaning up afterwards, like a bathroom or outside space. Have a fine-tooth flea comb, some paper towels, and a bowl of soapy water at the ready.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Examine high-risk areas<\/strong><br>\nFleas love warm, cosy spots with easy access to blood vessels. Start by parting the fur and closely examining the skin around the base of your dog's tail, behind the ears, under the belly, and along the inner thighs. These spots are prime flea territory, so inspect them carefully.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Run a flea comb through the fur<\/strong> \ud83e\udeae<br>\nGently comb through your dog's fur, focusing on the areas mentioned above. After each pass, check the comb for fleas or dark specks. Fleas themselves are tiny, dark, and fast movers, but the comb will help you catch them. Dip the comb in the soapy water if you do find any live fleas, as this will prevent them from escaping.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Check for flea dirt<\/strong> \ud83d\udca9<br>\nIf you spot dark specks, place a few on a damp paper towel to confirm that it's flea dirt. As we mentioned earlier, true flea dirt, or flea droppings, will turn reddish-brown when wet because it contains blood. This can confirm an infestation even if you haven't seen any live fleas.\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-fur-flea-comb.jpg\" alt=\"Finding fleas with a flea comb\">\n<\/figure>\n<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Inspect your dog's skin for reactions<\/strong><br>\nAs you comb, keep an eye out for red, irritated patches on your dog's skin. Some dogs react to flea bites with inflamed skin or red bumps, so any unusual skin irritation could be a sign that fleas have been at work.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Regularly check bedding and common areas<\/strong> \ud83d\udecf\ufe0f<br>\nFor peace of mind, do a quick check of your dog's bedding, carpets, and common resting spots in your home. Any evidence of fleas or flea dirt here can indicate a larger issue and prompt further action.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\nBy following these steps, you can thoroughly inspect your dog for fleas without the risk of missing anything.\n\nThis process not only helps confirm the presence of fleas but also ensures you catch an infestation early before it spreads.\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/lHrTrFcVRQE\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<h2>Flea treatment<\/h2>\n\nDealing with fleas can feel like an uphill battle, but with a targeted treatment plan it's a battle you can win - and win fast.\n\nFlea treatments come in various forms, from quick-acting topical solutions to longer-term prevention methods.\n\nHere's a straightforward guide to getting rid of fleas on your dog and keeping them from coming back.\n\n<h3>Spot-on treatments<\/h3>\n\nSpot-on treatments are one of the most popular ways to treat fleas, and they're both effective and easy to apply.\n\nThese treatments come in small tubes and are applied directly to your dog's skin, usually between the shoulder blades, where they can't lick it off. They work by killing adult fleas on contact and usually last for around a month.\n\nSpot-on treatments target the fleas on your dog while also preventing new ones from setting up camp. They're available from vets and pet shops, and they start working fast, making them a great first step if you're dealing with an active flea problem.\n\n<h3>Flea tablets \ud83d\udc8a<\/h3>\n\nFlea tablets, or oral treatments, work from the inside out. When your dog ingests the tablet, the active ingredients get into their bloodstream, meaning fleas die when they bite your dog's skin.\n\nSome tablets start working within hours and can kill adult fleas very quickly, so they're especially handy for severe infestations when you need fast relief.\n\nHowever, they often won't offer long-lasting protection unless used regularly, so they may be best combined with other preventative measures. It's also worth bearing in mind that some dogs may be sensitive to the ingredients in oral treatments, so it's important to monitor your dog during treatment to ensure their wellbeing. This applies especially to <a href=\"https:\/\/mychouchou.co.uk\/blog\/how-long-is-a-dog-pregnant-a-guide\">pregnant dogs<\/a>.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-flea-oral-treatment.jpg\" alt=\"Oral flea treatment for dogs\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Flea collars<\/h3>\n\nFlea collars have come a long way and can now offer effective, longer-lasting flea prevention, typically for up to eight months.\n\nThese collars release small amounts of active ingredients over time, which spread through your dog's coat and repel or kill fleas on contact. They're a great option if you want an easy solution that requires minimal upkeep. Just pop the collar on and let it do its job.\n\nHowever, make sure your dog is comfortable wearing a collar for extended periods, especially if they're not used to it.\n\n<h3>Flea shampoos and sprays \ud83e\udee7<\/h3>\n\nFlea shampoos and sprays can offer immediate relief and are ideal for when you're first treating a flea problem.\n\nA good flea shampoo kills adult fleas on your dog during the bath, and sprays can be applied directly onto the fur afterward to keep fleas at bay. While shampoos and sprays don't usually have long-term effects, they're a good initial treatment to knock out a large portion of fleas quickly.\n\nUse these with care, as some dogs have sensitive skin that can react to harsh chemicals.\n\n<h3>Home and environment treatments<\/h3>\n\nTreating your dog is only half the battle; you'll also need to tackle your home to make sure fleas don't come back.\n\nFlea eggs and larvae can live in carpets, upholstery, and bedding, so a thorough clean-up is essential. \u2728\n\nStart by washing your dog's bedding and any fabric your pet frequently uses in hot water. A 40\u00b0C wash should do it, and drying on high heat will also help.\n\nVacuum your carpets, rugs, and furniture regularly, especially where your dog spends time. \n\nThere are also flea sprays specifically for household use, which can help kill eggs and larvae in those hard-to-reach spots. Some people also choose to sprinkle diatomaceous earth (a natural powder) onto carpets and let it sit for a few hours before vacuuming, as it can kill fleas without the use of chemicals.\n\n<h3>Consistency is key<\/h3>\n\nWhen it comes to flea treatment, consistency is crucial.\n\nFleas have a persistent life cycle, so even if you kill the adult fleas, there may still be eggs and larvae around waiting to hatch.\n\nFollowing up with regular treatments and keeping an eye on your dog will help make sure the fleas are well and truly gone. Even after the immediate infestation is under control, using preventative treatments every month or as recommended can help keep your dog protected in the long run.\n\nWith a bit of patience and a consistent approach, you can tackle fleas and prevent them from becoming a recurring problem. From spot-on treatments and tablets to flea shampoos and home sprays, there's a solution for every pet and lifestyle, so you can say goodbye to these pesky parasites for good.\n\n<h2>How do dogs get fleas?<\/h2>\n\nYou may be wondering how your dog ended up with fleas in the first place.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-thinking-about-fleas.jpg\" alt=\"Dog thinking about fleas\">\n<\/figure>\n\nFleas are experts at hitching a ride, and there are quite a few ways these pests can find their way onto your dog.\n\nHere are the most common ways dogs pick up fleas:\n\n<h3>Other animals \ud83e\udd8a<\/h3>\n\nOne of the easiest ways for your dog to get fleas is from other animals. Fleas don't discriminate - they're happy to hop from one animal to another. If your dog has been around other pets, like cats or other dogs, they could easily have picked up a few hitchhikers.\n\n<h3>Outdoor adventures<\/h3>\n\nFleas love to hang out in tall grass, piles of leaves \ud83c\udf42, and shady spots. When your dog is out exploring or sniffing around in the garden, there's a good chance they could pick up fleas waiting in the grass or bushes. Even well-maintained parks can have fleas lurking around in vegetation, ready to jump onto a passing host.\n\n<h3>Pet boarding and grooming facilities<\/h3>\n\nAny place with lots of pets can be a potential flea hotspot. Boarding kennels, doggie daycares, grooming salons, or pet-friendly cafes can be common sources, especially if other pets there have active flea infestations. Even with good cleaning practices, it only takes one dog with fleas to create a problem.\n\n<h3>Your own home \ud83c\udfe1<\/h3>\n\nFleas can sneak into your home in all kinds of ways. If you have other pets or live in a shared building with pets, fleas can come in through shared spaces or even by hitching a ride on your clothes. Once they're inside, they're quick to find your dog and settle in.\n\n<h3>Human visitors \ud83e\uddd1\u200d\ud83e\uddb2<\/h3>\n\nSometimes fleas hitch a ride on people too! If you or a visitor has been around animals with fleas, it's possible for fleas to travel into your home on clothing or bags and find their way onto your dog. Fleas are small and sneaky, so they're easy to overlook.\n\nFleas are opportunistic pests, always looking for a new host. Knowing how they get around helps you understand where your dog might be picking them up and can give you an edge in preventing future flea troubles.\n\nAnd sadly, yes, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.animeddirect.co.uk\/advice\/can-fleas-live-on-humans\/\" target=\"_blank\">fleas can bite humans<\/a> - although they tend not to live or reproduce on a human host, as their preferred habitat is animal fur.\n\n<h2>Preventing fleas in dogs<\/h2>\n\nPreventing fleas in dogs is all about adopting a few simple habits.\n\nRegular treatments, like spot-ons, flea collars, or tablets, create a protective barrier that keeps fleas off your dog. Many of these treatments only need applying once a month or every few months, making it straight-forward to stay on top of the problem.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-flea-infographic.jpg\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-flea-infographic.jpg\" alt=\"Infographic about fleas\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Credit: RSPCA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\nKeeping your home clean is also important, as flea eggs and larvae can settle into carpets, bedding, and furniture. Frequent vacuuming and washing of your dog's bedding, along with the occasional use of a pet-safe flea spray in high-traffic areas, can help prevent fleas from establishing a foothold.\n\nAfter walks or park visits, a quick brush or flea check can catch any stragglers before they cause trouble.\n\nRegular grooming and bathing keep your dog's coat less inviting to fleas, and reducing contact with wildlife like foxes or squirrels - common flea carriers - lowers the risk of picking up fleas outdoors.\n\n<strong>With these simple steps, you can keep your dog flea-free and comfortable!<\/strong> \ud83d\udc15\n","html":"<p>Have you noticed your dog scratching more than usual? Or frantically biting themselves, especially on the base of their tail? Perhaps you can see evidence of hair loss, or red bumps on the skin on their lower legs.<\/p>\n<p>While this could be the result of an environmental or health condition, <strong>it's most likely that your dog has fleas - parasites that live in your pooch's fur and feed on their blood<\/strong>. \ud83e\ude78<\/p>\n<p>Blood-sucking parasites are always an unwelcome addition to the family, but armed with some knowledge and a targeted treatment plan, you can help your dog find relief from these pests in no time at all.<\/p>\n<p>Keep reading to learn how to identify fleas, get rid of them quickly and prevent their return.<\/p>\n<h2>What are fleas?<\/h2>\n<p>Fleas are tiny parasites that live on their host, feed on their blood and make life miserable for dogs (and their owners).<\/p>\n<p>The type of flea most likely bothering your dog is <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cat_flea\" target=\"_blank\"><em>Ctenocephalides felis<\/em><\/a>, which is better known as the &quot;cat flea&quot; \ud83d\ude3f, although it doesn't limit itself to cats \ud83d\ude3c. This pesky insect is happy to latch onto dogs, and even humans in some cases, making it a common nuisance in many households.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/flea-on-dog.jpg\" alt=\"Flea living on dog\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Fleas thrive in warm, humid spots, which means they can be active all year round, especially indoors where it's nice and cosy.<\/p>\n<p>These parasites are tiny - usually between 1 and 3 millimetres long - and reddish-brown, making them hard to see unless you're looking closely. But don't let their small size fool you. Fleas are built to be resilient; their flat bodies allow them to weave through fur, and they've got powerful back legs that help them jump up to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.smorescience.com\/how-far-can-a-flea-jump\/#:~:text=In%20fact%2C%20fleas%20can%20jump,jumping%20up%20to%2019%20inches.\" target=\"_blank\">200 times their body length<\/a>. This impressive leaping ability means they can hop easily from one animal to another, quickly spreading and making themselves at home.<\/p>\n<p>Fleas aren't just a mild annoyance as they can cause real discomfort and health issues. Their bites are incredibly itchy, causing dogs to scratch and bite at themselves, which can lead to red, irritated skin and even infections. Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva, which only makes the reaction worse. In severe cases, especially in puppies or smaller dogs, flea infestations can lead to anaemia due to blood loss. And as if that's not enough, fleas can carry other parasites, like tapeworms, that can infect dogs.<\/p>\n<h2>Flea life cycle<\/h2>\n<p>The flea life cycle is a major reason why these little pests are so hard to get rid of, especially when they settle on your dog.<\/p>\n<p>Understanding how fleas develop from start to finish is key to breaking the cycle and keeping your dog - and your home - flea-free.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/flea-life-cycle.png\" alt=\"Flea life cycle\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>The flea life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult, and each one plays a role in keeping the infestation going.<\/p>\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Eggs<\/strong> \ud83e\udd5a<br>\nIt all starts with adult fleas feeding on your dog's blood, which they need to reproduce. Once they've had a meal, female fleas can lay up to 50 eggs a day. These eggs don't stick around on your dog; they fall off in the surrounding environment - onto carpets, bedding, and anywhere your dog likes to hang out. This means your dog's favourite spots become potential flea breeding grounds pretty quickly.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Larvae<\/strong> \ud83d\udc1b<br>\nA few days later, the eggs hatch into tiny, worm-like larvae that wiggle their way into dark, hidden spots like deep in carpets, cracks in the floor, or under furniture. They're not after blood just yet; instead, they feed on organic matter and \u201cflea dirt,\u201d which is basically dried flea droppings left behind by the adults. Flea larvae can stay like this for a few weeks, growing quietly and waiting for the next stage.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Pupae<\/strong><br>\nNext comes the pupa stage, where the larvae wrap themselves up in sticky little cocoons. This stage is the most resilient and toughest to deal with. The cocoons are hard to spot and even harder to kill, especially since they can stick to fabrics and bedding. Inside the cocoon, the fleas develop and can stay hidden for months, waiting until they sense a host nearby (like your dog) before they hatch. Warmth, vibrations, and even carbon dioxide from a passing pet or person can trigger them to emerge as adult fleas.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Adults<\/strong><br>\nOnce they're out, the adult fleas are ready to jump onto your dog, feed, and start laying eggs all over again. And just like that, the cycle keeps on going.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Breaking the flea cycle means targeting every stage - something we'll cover in detail later.<\/p>\n<h2>Signs your dog has fleas<\/h2>\n<p>If you've noticed your dog scratching more than usual, it could be a sign that fleas have moved in.<\/p>\n<p>Fleas aren't just an itchy nuisance; they can make your dog pretty uncomfortable and even lead to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.hartz.com\/flea-related-illnesses-that-affect-your-dog\/\" target=\"_blank\">health issues<\/a> if left untreated.<\/p>\n<p>Here are some key signs to watch for that might mean your dog is dealing with a flea problem.<\/p>\n<h3>Scratching and biting<\/h3>\n<p>The first and most obvious sign is scratching and biting, as fleas bite and feed on your dog's blood, which causes itching.<\/p>\n<p>If you notice your dog scratching a lot - around the base of the tail, behind the ears, or on the belly - that could be a telltale flea signal. Especially so if they scratch themselves frantically or with a degree of urgency that seems unusual.<\/p>\n<p>Some dogs even nip or bite at their skin in an effort to get rid of the itch, so if you catch your dog frantically gnawing at certain spots, it's worth investigating.<\/p>\n<h3>Red bumps and inflamed skin<\/h3>\n<p>Another sign is red bumps or irritated skin.<\/p>\n<p>Flea bites are irritating on their own, but some dogs are actually allergic to flea saliva, which can make the reaction even worse.<\/p>\n<p>If you see little red dots on your dog's skin, or if the skin looks inflamed or raw, fleas could be the culprit. Dogs with flea allergies might develop larger patches of irritated skin or even lose some fur from all the scratching and biting. The base of your pooch's tail is one area in particular to keep an eye on.<\/p>\n<h3>Flea dirt \ud83d\udca9<\/h3>\n<p>A close inspection can sometimes reveal \u201cflea dirt,\u201d which is basically flea poop.<\/p>\n<p>Flea dirt looks like tiny black or brown specks, usually found around the base of the tail, neck, and belly.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-fur-flea-dirt.jpg\" alt=\"Flea dirt on dog fur\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>If you're not sure whether it's dirt or flea droppings, try placing a few specks on a damp paper towel. Flea dirt will turn reddish-brown when wet since it contains dried blood.<\/p>\n<p>If you often let your dog sleep on the sofa or your own bed, flea dirt may find its way onto the upholstery or bed sheets. Sleeping in a bed amidst flea poop is something I'm sure we'd all rather avoid.<\/p>\n<p>You might even catch a glimpse of the fleas themselves. Fleas are small, dark, and move fast, so spotting them isn't easy. Check areas where your dog's fur is thinner, like the belly or inner thighs, as fleas like to hang out there. You can also try running a fine-tooth flea comb through your dog's fur to see if you catch any fleas or flea dirt.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, keep an eye on your home. If you're seeing small, itchy bites on yourself or other pets, or if you notice tiny, jumping insects in your dog's bedding, fleas might be spreading around the place.<\/p>\n<p>Early detection can save you a lot of trouble, so if you spot any of these signs, it's time to take action to get those fleas out of yours and your dog's life!<\/p>\n<h3>How to check for fleas<\/h3>\n<p>If you suspect fleas, a quick, thorough inspection can confirm it and help you act quickly.<\/p>\n<p>Here's how to check your dog for fleas in a few simple steps:<\/p>\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Prepare your space and gather supplies<\/strong><br>\nSet up in a well-lit area where you can see clearly and ideally somewhere you don't mind cleaning up afterwards, like a bathroom or outside space. Have a fine-tooth flea comb, some paper towels, and a bowl of soapy water at the ready.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Examine high-risk areas<\/strong><br>\nFleas love warm, cosy spots with easy access to blood vessels. Start by parting the fur and closely examining the skin around the base of your dog's tail, behind the ears, under the belly, and along the inner thighs. These spots are prime flea territory, so inspect them carefully.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Run a flea comb through the fur<\/strong> \ud83e\udeae<br>\nGently comb through your dog's fur, focusing on the areas mentioned above. After each pass, check the comb for fleas or dark specks. Fleas themselves are tiny, dark, and fast movers, but the comb will help you catch them. Dip the comb in the soapy water if you do find any live fleas, as this will prevent them from escaping.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Check for flea dirt<\/strong> \ud83d\udca9<br>\nIf you spot dark specks, place a few on a damp paper towel to confirm that it's flea dirt. As we mentioned earlier, true flea dirt, or flea droppings, will turn reddish-brown when wet because it contains blood. This can confirm an infestation even if you haven't seen any live fleas.\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-fur-flea-comb.jpg\" alt=\"Finding fleas with a flea comb\">\n<\/figure>\n<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Inspect your dog's skin for reactions<\/strong><br>\nAs you comb, keep an eye out for red, irritated patches on your dog's skin. Some dogs react to flea bites with inflamed skin or red bumps, so any unusual skin irritation could be a sign that fleas have been at work.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Regularly check bedding and common areas<\/strong> \ud83d\udecf\ufe0f<br>\nFor peace of mind, do a quick check of your dog's bedding, carpets, and common resting spots in your home. Any evidence of fleas or flea dirt here can indicate a larger issue and prompt further action.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>By following these steps, you can thoroughly inspect your dog for fleas without the risk of missing anything.<\/p>\n<p>This process not only helps confirm the presence of fleas but also ensures you catch an infestation early before it spreads.<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/lHrTrFcVRQE\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>Flea treatment<\/h2>\n<p>Dealing with fleas can feel like an uphill battle, but with a targeted treatment plan it's a battle you can win - and win fast.<\/p>\n<p>Flea treatments come in various forms, from quick-acting topical solutions to longer-term prevention methods.<\/p>\n<p>Here's a straightforward guide to getting rid of fleas on your dog and keeping them from coming back.<\/p>\n<h3>Spot-on treatments<\/h3>\n<p>Spot-on treatments are one of the most popular ways to treat fleas, and they're both effective and easy to apply.<\/p>\n<p>These treatments come in small tubes and are applied directly to your dog's skin, usually between the shoulder blades, where they can't lick it off. They work by killing adult fleas on contact and usually last for around a month.<\/p>\n<p>Spot-on treatments target the fleas on your dog while also preventing new ones from setting up camp. They're available from vets and pet shops, and they start working fast, making them a great first step if you're dealing with an active flea problem.<\/p>\n<h3>Flea tablets \ud83d\udc8a<\/h3>\n<p>Flea tablets, or oral treatments, work from the inside out. When your dog ingests the tablet, the active ingredients get into their bloodstream, meaning fleas die when they bite your dog's skin.<\/p>\n<p>Some tablets start working within hours and can kill adult fleas very quickly, so they're especially handy for severe infestations when you need fast relief.<\/p>\n<p>However, they often won't offer long-lasting protection unless used regularly, so they may be best combined with other preventative measures. It's also worth bearing in mind that some dogs may be sensitive to the ingredients in oral treatments, so it's important to monitor your dog during treatment to ensure their wellbeing. This applies especially to <a href=\"https:\/\/mychouchou.co.uk\/blog\/how-long-is-a-dog-pregnant-a-guide\">pregnant dogs<\/a>.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-flea-oral-treatment.jpg\" alt=\"Oral flea treatment for dogs\">\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Flea collars<\/h3>\n<p>Flea collars have come a long way and can now offer effective, longer-lasting flea prevention, typically for up to eight months.<\/p>\n<p>These collars release small amounts of active ingredients over time, which spread through your dog's coat and repel or kill fleas on contact. They're a great option if you want an easy solution that requires minimal upkeep. Just pop the collar on and let it do its job.<\/p>\n<p>However, make sure your dog is comfortable wearing a collar for extended periods, especially if they're not used to it.<\/p>\n<h3>Flea shampoos and sprays \ud83e\udee7<\/h3>\n<p>Flea shampoos and sprays can offer immediate relief and are ideal for when you're first treating a flea problem.<\/p>\n<p>A good flea shampoo kills adult fleas on your dog during the bath, and sprays can be applied directly onto the fur afterward to keep fleas at bay. While shampoos and sprays don't usually have long-term effects, they're a good initial treatment to knock out a large portion of fleas quickly.<\/p>\n<p>Use these with care, as some dogs have sensitive skin that can react to harsh chemicals.<\/p>\n<h3>Home and environment treatments<\/h3>\n<p>Treating your dog is only half the battle; you'll also need to tackle your home to make sure fleas don't come back.<\/p>\n<p>Flea eggs and larvae can live in carpets, upholstery, and bedding, so a thorough clean-up is essential. \u2728<\/p>\n<p>Start by washing your dog's bedding and any fabric your pet frequently uses in hot water. A 40\u00b0C wash should do it, and drying on high heat will also help.<\/p>\n<p>Vacuum your carpets, rugs, and furniture regularly, especially where your dog spends time. <\/p>\n<p>There are also flea sprays specifically for household use, which can help kill eggs and larvae in those hard-to-reach spots. Some people also choose to sprinkle diatomaceous earth (a natural powder) onto carpets and let it sit for a few hours before vacuuming, as it can kill fleas without the use of chemicals.<\/p>\n<h3>Consistency is key<\/h3>\n<p>When it comes to flea treatment, consistency is crucial.<\/p>\n<p>Fleas have a persistent life cycle, so even if you kill the adult fleas, there may still be eggs and larvae around waiting to hatch.<\/p>\n<p>Following up with regular treatments and keeping an eye on your dog will help make sure the fleas are well and truly gone. Even after the immediate infestation is under control, using preventative treatments every month or as recommended can help keep your dog protected in the long run.<\/p>\n<p>With a bit of patience and a consistent approach, you can tackle fleas and prevent them from becoming a recurring problem. From spot-on treatments and tablets to flea shampoos and home sprays, there's a solution for every pet and lifestyle, so you can say goodbye to these pesky parasites for good.<\/p>\n<h2>How do dogs get fleas?<\/h2>\n<p>You may be wondering how your dog ended up with fleas in the first place.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-thinking-about-fleas.jpg\" alt=\"Dog thinking about fleas\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Fleas are experts at hitching a ride, and there are quite a few ways these pests can find their way onto your dog.<\/p>\n<p>Here are the most common ways dogs pick up fleas:<\/p>\n<h3>Other animals \ud83e\udd8a<\/h3>\n<p>One of the easiest ways for your dog to get fleas is from other animals. Fleas don't discriminate - they're happy to hop from one animal to another. If your dog has been around other pets, like cats or other dogs, they could easily have picked up a few hitchhikers.<\/p>\n<h3>Outdoor adventures<\/h3>\n<p>Fleas love to hang out in tall grass, piles of leaves \ud83c\udf42, and shady spots. When your dog is out exploring or sniffing around in the garden, there's a good chance they could pick up fleas waiting in the grass or bushes. Even well-maintained parks can have fleas lurking around in vegetation, ready to jump onto a passing host.<\/p>\n<h3>Pet boarding and grooming facilities<\/h3>\n<p>Any place with lots of pets can be a potential flea hotspot. Boarding kennels, doggie daycares, grooming salons, or pet-friendly cafes can be common sources, especially if other pets there have active flea infestations. Even with good cleaning practices, it only takes one dog with fleas to create a problem.<\/p>\n<h3>Your own home \ud83c\udfe1<\/h3>\n<p>Fleas can sneak into your home in all kinds of ways. If you have other pets or live in a shared building with pets, fleas can come in through shared spaces or even by hitching a ride on your clothes. Once they're inside, they're quick to find your dog and settle in.<\/p>\n<h3>Human visitors \ud83e\uddd1\u200d\ud83e\uddb2<\/h3>\n<p>Sometimes fleas hitch a ride on people too! If you or a visitor has been around animals with fleas, it's possible for fleas to travel into your home on clothing or bags and find their way onto your dog. Fleas are small and sneaky, so they're easy to overlook.<\/p>\n<p>Fleas are opportunistic pests, always looking for a new host. Knowing how they get around helps you understand where your dog might be picking them up and can give you an edge in preventing future flea troubles.<\/p>\n<p>And sadly, yes, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.animeddirect.co.uk\/advice\/can-fleas-live-on-humans\/\" target=\"_blank\">fleas can bite humans<\/a> - although they tend not to live or reproduce on a human host, as their preferred habitat is animal fur.<\/p>\n<h2>Preventing fleas in dogs<\/h2>\n<p>Preventing fleas in dogs is all about adopting a few simple habits.<\/p>\n<p>Regular treatments, like spot-ons, flea collars, or tablets, create a protective barrier that keeps fleas off your dog. Many of these treatments only need applying once a month or every few months, making it straight-forward to stay on top of the problem.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-flea-infographic.jpg\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-flea-infographic.jpg\" alt=\"Infographic about fleas\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Credit: RSPCA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<p>Keeping your home clean is also important, as flea eggs and larvae can settle into carpets, bedding, and furniture. Frequent vacuuming and washing of your dog's bedding, along with the occasional use of a pet-safe flea spray in high-traffic areas, can help prevent fleas from establishing a foothold.<\/p>\n<p>After walks or park visits, a quick brush or flea check can catch any stragglers before they cause trouble.<\/p>\n<p>Regular grooming and bathing keep your dog's coat less inviting to fleas, and reducing contact with wildlife like foxes or squirrels - common flea carriers - lowers the risk of picking up fleas outdoors.<\/p>\n<p><strong>With these simple steps, you can keep your dog flea-free and comfortable!<\/strong> \ud83d\udc15<\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-11-01 15:42:02","updated":"2024-11-08 10:28:49","author":"1","category":"5","status":"published","comments":"0"}},{"data":{"id":"1","title":"Homemade Halloween Dog Treats","slug":"homemade-halloween-dog-treats","description":"","markdown":"I love to bake. I'm never going to win (or even qualify for) the Great British Bake Off, but a Sunday afternoon spent in the kitchen making some sweet or savoury treats is a super relaxing time for me. That said, it's not always easy baking for just two, and since I now work from home I can no longer palm off my creations on colleagues in the office. This meant I started to miss my baking days. Luckily Paso came to the rescue. \ud83d\udc3e\ud83d\ude05\n\nLike most dogs Paso loves his treats and as soon as the treat cupboard is opened he will magically appear in the kitchen from wherever he was in the house. I'm always keen to ensure that Paso has a healthy diet so I decided to combine my love of baking with his love of treats, a match made in heaven!\n\nI even went all out and bought a number of different cutters in bone, dog and paw shapes. There's obviously no need for you to do this if you don't want to (I like to pretend that Paso is an intelligent creature, but I can guarantee that he neither knows, nor cares, what shape his treats are!) All you really need is a set of scales, a baking tray, a rolling pin and a quiet Sunday afternoon.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-inside-giant-pumpkin.jpg\" alt=\"Beagle inside giant pumpkin\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h2>Pumpkin and peanut butter dog treats<\/h2>\n\nWe're headed into October and these treats are great to make around Halloween, when you may already have a load of pumpkin flesh to use up. If you can't get pumpkin then squash or sweet potato work just as well, or you could even try canned pumpkin.\n\n\u26a0\ufe0f **Warning!** Most dogs love peanut butter but some brands can contain xylitol, which can be fatal in canines, so be careful to check the ingredients before feeding peanut butter to your dog or adding it to your recipes.\n\n<h4>Ingredients<\/h4>\n* 130g pumpkin flesh \ud83c\udf83\n* 100g smooth peanut butter\n* 1 egg \ud83e\udd5a\n* 25g dried cranberries\n* 2tsp fresh parsley\n* 25g oats (we use gluten free)\n* 175g flour (we use gluten free)\n\n<h4>Method<\/h4>\n\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n\t<li>Peel the pumpkin and chop into even sized chunks. Boil in a pan of water until soft. Drain and mash until smooth and set to one side to cool. Whilst the pumpkin is cooling roughly chop the cranberries and parsley and lightly beat the egg.<\/li>\n\t<li>Mix the egg and peanut butter with the pumpkin and then add the cranberries, parsley and oats. Add the flour and mix to a dough using your hands.<\/li>\n\t<li>Wrap the dough in clingfilm and leave in the fridge for six hours or overnight.<\/li>\n\t<li>Preheat your oven to 170\u00b0C\/150\u00b0C (fan)\/Gas Mark 3 and line a baking tray with parchment paper.<\/li>\n\t<li>Flour your worktop and roll out the mixture to around 4mm thick. Cut out your shapes - Halloween cutters optional! \ud83d\udc7b - and place on your prepared baking sheet.<\/li>\n\t<li>Bake in the preheated oven for around 20 minutes then leave to cool on the baking sheet. Once cool, store in an airtight container, perhaps keeping one out as a treat for your pet for waiting so patiently. \ud83d\ude0a<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n<h2>Banana and sweet potato dog treats<\/h2>\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-treats-banana-sweet-potato.jpg\" alt=\"Banana and sweet potato dog treats\">\n<\/figure>\n\nPaso has a seriously sweet tooth and would eat cake all day long given half a chance. This super simple recipe satisfies his sugary cravings whilst avoiding any processed sugar.\n\n<h4>Ingredients<\/h4>\n* 1 ripe banana, chopped \ud83c\udf4c\ud83d\udd2a\n* 60g sweet potato, peeled and chopped into small chunks \ud83c\udf60\n* 160g oat flour*\n\n*If you can't get oat flour, you can use oats and whizz them in a food processor until they resemble flour.\n\nPaso has a gluten free diet as we've found he's sensitive to grain, so we always use gluten free flour or oats. If your dog doesn't have any issues with gluten then you can just use the normal variety.\n\n<h4>Method<\/h4>\n\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n\t<li>Boil your sweet potato in a pan of water until soft. Remove from the heat, mash and then set aside to cool completely.<\/li>\n\t<li>Once cooled add your banana and mash together until smooth (you can use a hand blender for this if you prefer). Then add your oat flour and mix to form a dough. Wrap the dough in cling film and leave in the fridge for six hours or overnight. This allows the oats to absorb some moisture making them safer for your dog to eat. It also makes the dough easier to roll out!<\/li>\n\t<li>Preheat your oven to 180\u00b0C\/160\u00b0C (fan)\/Gas Mark 4 and line a baking tray with parchment. Take your dough out of the fridge. Dust your worktop with some flour and roll the dough out until about 1cm thick. Use a cutter to cut out the treats and place them on the prepared baking tray.<\/li>\n\t<li>Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes and then transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\nThese treats will keep for up to two weeks in a sealed container. \ud83d\udc4d\n\nHopefully you'll enjoy trying these recipes, but more importantly, your pooch will enjoy eating them. We're always trying out new recipes for Paso's homemade treats so watch this space for new creations! ","html":"<p>I love to bake. I'm never going to win (or even qualify for) the Great British Bake Off, but a Sunday afternoon spent in the kitchen making some sweet or savoury treats is a super relaxing time for me. That said, it's not always easy baking for just two, and since I now work from home I can no longer palm off my creations on colleagues in the office. This meant I started to miss my baking days. Luckily Paso came to the rescue. \ud83d\udc3e\ud83d\ude05<\/p>\n<p>Like most dogs Paso loves his treats and as soon as the treat cupboard is opened he will magically appear in the kitchen from wherever he was in the house. I'm always keen to ensure that Paso has a healthy diet so I decided to combine my love of baking with his love of treats, a match made in heaven!<\/p>\n<p>I even went all out and bought a number of different cutters in bone, dog and paw shapes. There's obviously no need for you to do this if you don't want to (I like to pretend that Paso is an intelligent creature, but I can guarantee that he neither knows, nor cares, what shape his treats are!) All you really need is a set of scales, a baking tray, a rolling pin and a quiet Sunday afternoon.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-inside-giant-pumpkin.jpg\" alt=\"Beagle inside giant pumpkin\">\n<\/figure>\n<h2>Pumpkin and peanut butter dog treats<\/h2>\n<p>We're headed into October and these treats are great to make around Halloween, when you may already have a load of pumpkin flesh to use up. If you can't get pumpkin then squash or sweet potato work just as well, or you could even try canned pumpkin.<\/p>\n<p>\u26a0\ufe0f <strong>Warning!<\/strong> Most dogs love peanut butter but some brands can contain xylitol, which can be fatal in canines, so be careful to check the ingredients before feeding peanut butter to your dog or adding it to your recipes.<\/p>\n<h4>Ingredients<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>130g pumpkin flesh \ud83c\udf83<\/li>\n<li>100g smooth peanut butter<\/li>\n<li>1 egg \ud83e\udd5a<\/li>\n<li>25g dried cranberries<\/li>\n<li>2tsp fresh parsley<\/li>\n<li>25g oats (we use gluten free)<\/li>\n<li>175g flour (we use gluten free)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4>Method<\/h4>\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n    <li>Peel the pumpkin and chop into even sized chunks. Boil in a pan of water until soft. Drain and mash until smooth and set to one side to cool. Whilst the pumpkin is cooling roughly chop the cranberries and parsley and lightly beat the egg.<\/li>\n    <li>Mix the egg and peanut butter with the pumpkin and then add the cranberries, parsley and oats. Add the flour and mix to a dough using your hands.<\/li>\n    <li>Wrap the dough in clingfilm and leave in the fridge for six hours or overnight.<\/li>\n    <li>Preheat your oven to 170\u00b0C\/150\u00b0C (fan)\/Gas Mark 3 and line a baking tray with parchment paper.<\/li>\n    <li>Flour your worktop and roll out the mixture to around 4mm thick. Cut out your shapes - Halloween cutters optional! \ud83d\udc7b - and place on your prepared baking sheet.<\/li>\n    <li>Bake in the preheated oven for around 20 minutes then leave to cool on the baking sheet. Once cool, store in an airtight container, perhaps keeping one out as a treat for your pet for waiting so patiently. \ud83d\ude0a<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h2>Banana and sweet potato dog treats<\/h2>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-treats-banana-sweet-potato.jpg\" alt=\"Banana and sweet potato dog treats\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Paso has a seriously sweet tooth and would eat cake all day long given half a chance. This super simple recipe satisfies his sugary cravings whilst avoiding any processed sugar.<\/p>\n<h4>Ingredients<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>1 ripe banana, chopped \ud83c\udf4c\ud83d\udd2a<\/li>\n<li>60g sweet potato, peeled and chopped into small chunks \ud83c\udf60<\/li>\n<li>160g oat flour*<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>*If you can't get oat flour, you can use oats and whizz them in a food processor until they resemble flour.<\/p>\n<p>Paso has a gluten free diet as we've found he's sensitive to grain, so we always use gluten free flour or oats. If your dog doesn't have any issues with gluten then you can just use the normal variety.<\/p>\n<h4>Method<\/h4>\n<ol class=\"loose\">\n    <li>Boil your sweet potato in a pan of water until soft. Remove from the heat, mash and then set aside to cool completely.<\/li>\n    <li>Once cooled add your banana and mash together until smooth (you can use a hand blender for this if you prefer). Then add your oat flour and mix to form a dough. Wrap the dough in cling film and leave in the fridge for six hours or overnight. This allows the oats to absorb some moisture making them safer for your dog to eat. It also makes the dough easier to roll out!<\/li>\n    <li>Preheat your oven to 180\u00b0C\/160\u00b0C (fan)\/Gas Mark 4 and line a baking tray with parchment. Take your dough out of the fridge. Dust your worktop with some flour and roll the dough out until about 1cm thick. Use a cutter to cut out the treats and place them on the prepared baking tray.<\/li>\n    <li>Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes and then transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>These treats will keep for up to two weeks in a sealed container. \ud83d\udc4d<\/p>\n<p>Hopefully you'll enjoy trying these recipes, but more importantly, your pooch will enjoy eating them. We're always trying out new recipes for Paso's homemade treats so watch this space for new creations! <\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-10-19 09:50:40","updated":"2024-10-20 15:52:08","author":"2","category":"8","status":"published","comments":"0"}},{"data":{"id":"59","title":"How Long is a Dog Pregnant? A Guide","slug":"how-long-is-a-dog-pregnant-a-guide","description":"","markdown":"New arrivals are always exciting, but if your dog is pregnant or you've reserved a puppy from a breeder's litter and are counting down the days, the wait can feel eternal. \ud83d\udd5f\n\nFortunately, there's plenty of prep you could be doing that will keep you busy and help make the long wait fly by!\n\nKeep reading to get some idea of what to expect as you wait on the birth of your new puppy, including tips on how to prepare for its arrival. We'll also touch on some of the challenges you might face in the early stages of introducing a puppy into your home. \ud83d\udca9\n\n<h2>How long is gestation for dogs?<\/h2>\n\n<strong>A dog's pregnancy can last anywhere between 56 and 70 days, with the average gestation period lasting 63 days<\/strong>.\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/I2sRAH-CHFk\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nHow long the dog is pregnant is determined by several factors, including the dog's breed and its overall health.\n\nLarger breeds tend to experience longer gestation periods compared to smaller breeds, but this is not a strict rule and there can be exceptions.\n\nOlder dogs aren't thought to have longer pregnancies on average, but as older dogs are more likely to suffer from health conditions and experience complications during gestation, the pregnancy may be a difficult one and therefore seem longer.\n\nPregnancy can place significant physical stress on a dog, and in older dogs this stress is magnified. Older dogs are also at higher risk of delivering stillborn puppies or having litters with health problems. For these reasons, responsible breeders and pet owners usually retire dogs from breeding after five to seven years, depending on the breed and health of the dog.\n\nClose veterinary monitoring is advised throughout any pregnancy but especially so where older dogs are concerned, and it's wise to avoid pregnancy in dogs with pre-existing health conditions due to the increased risk to the mother and her litter.\n\n<h2>What can lead to premature labour in dogs?<\/h2>\n\n<h3>Health issues<\/h3>\n\nConditions such as hormonal imbalances, infections or reproductive issues can cause a pregnancy to end earlier than expected, resulting in premature labour. This can be dangerous not only for the mother, but the puppies as well, with premature pups often needing help to survive infancy.\n\n<h3>Stress<\/h3>\n\nA mother dog that's stressed during gestation - due to environmental, nutritional or other issues - is more likely to end her pregnancy early compared to a dog living in better circumstances, and it's thought that these prenatal stresses could also impact the <a href=\"https:\/\/caninewelfare.centers.purdue.edu\/behavior\/puppy-development\/prenatal-stress\/\" target=\"_blank\">wellbeing and behaviour of her litter<\/a>.\n\nThis is why we strongly recommend you choose a breeder who allows you to visit the mother at her home and is open to you asking questions. \n\nIf it's your dog that's pregnant, it's important to provide a quiet, comfortable space for her, particularly as her pregnancy progresses towards labour.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pregnant-dog-transition-puppy-food.png\" alt=\"Pregnant dog diet\">\n\t<figcaption>Transition to puppy food after six weeks. Credit: Purina<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\nDiet is also extremely important as it's necessary to maintain a dog's weight during pregnancy, and in the lead-up to labour she'll need more energy and nutrients. After six weeks gestation many breeders will <a href=\"https:\/\/www.thekennelclub.org.uk\/health-and-dog-care\/health\/health-and-care\/a-z-of-health-and-care-issues\/feeding-during-pregnancy\/\" target=\"_blank\">transition a pregnant bitch to puppy food<\/a>, as this is nutritionally more dense than adult food. A diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids (DHA) will also help puppy development in utero and during milk production. \ud83e\uddb4\n\n<h3>Genetic factors<\/h3>\n\nCertain smaller breeds of dog tend to have shorter gestation periods but this isn't a rule and it shouldn't result in premature labour.\n\nHowever, genetics may play a role in the timing of your puppy's delivery. If the mother has siblings that have experienced premature labour in the past, this could increase the likelihood that your puppy will be delivered prematurely, so it may be worth asking the breeder about the mother's family history as well as the dog's own medical history.\n\n<h3>Number of prior pregnancies<\/h3>\n\nA dog that's already had a number of pregnancies in the past may experience increasingly shorter gestation periods, but this wouldn't necessarily lead to premature labour, except in an older dog where age or a health condition were the root cause.<\/li>\n\n<h2>What causes a longer gestation period in dogs?<\/h2>\n\n<h3>Breed size<\/h3>\n\nAgain, this isn't a rule and doesn't normally lead to significant differences in the length of gestation, but some larger breeds \ud83d\udc29 do on average tend to have slightly longer pregnancies than smaller breeds.\n\n<h3>Litter size<\/h3>\n\nAlthough this may seem counterintuitive, mothers with a smaller litter may experience a longer pregnancy due to some of the hormonal signals that trigger labour not being as strong as they would have been had she had a larger litter.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/rhodesian-ridgeback-dog-nursing-litter.jpg\" alt=\"How long is gestation for dogs?\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Health problems<\/h3>\n\nCertain health conditions, including uterine infections, can prevent the normal progression of pregnancy and delay the onset of labour. That's why responsible breeders will monitor pregnant bitches closely to ensure they're in good health throughout their pregnancy, and it's also why we recommend you visit the mother to get a sense of her health and wellbeing. \ud83d\udc15\n\n<h3>Human error<\/h3>\n\nDepending on how your puppy was conceived, it's not uncommon for breeders to get confused about the mating date or ovulation time. So if conception occurred later than was recorded, a normal gestation period may seem to be dragging out longer than it should, resulting in misplaced concern about the health of the mother and her litter.\n\nOn the flip side, where conception occurred earlier than thought, a breeder may not recognise that a mother is experiencing an extended pregnancy and requires veterinary attention, and this is why responsible breeders do take great care to accurately record mating dates and ovulation.\n\nDog owners unused to breeding dogs are more likely to make this kind of error, especially if the pregnancy was unplanned or the dog was allowed to continue mating following a planned conception.\n\n<h3>Hormonal issues<\/h3>\n\nIf progesterone levels fail to drop sufficiently during gestation, the pregnancy can be extended and could result in difficult labour (known as dystocia).\n\nOxytocin is another hormone that can impact the length of the gestation period as it triggers uterine contractions, initiating the birthing process, and also helps expel the placenta following delivery of the litter. Oxytocin deficiency can result in prolonged labour, retained placenta and increase the risk of postpartum bleeding.\n\nIf a dog's pregnancy extends beyond 70 days, any responsible breeder will consult with a veterinarian who can check for potential complications or other health concerns. For example, synthetic oxytocin can be administered to stimulate labour, but only under veterinary supervision due to the possibility of complications.\n\n<h2>Stages of pregnancy in dogs<\/h2>\n\nWhether it's your dog that's pregnant or you've reserved a puppy from a breeder's litter, understanding dog gestation stages can help you monitor the health of the mother or simply prepare for the exciting arrival of her litter.\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/kpgWc2NxM7Y\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nHere's a month-by-month breakdown of what to expect during the pregnancy.\n\n<h3>Month 1: Fertilisation and early development (days 0-30)<\/h3>\n\n<h4>Week 1 (days 0-7)<\/h4>\n\nFertilisation occurs soon after mating, with sperm \ud83d\udca6 meeting the eggs in the fallopian tubes. The fertilised eggs begin dividing into cells and slowly travel to the uterus.\n\n<h4>Week 2 (days 7-14)<\/h4>\n\nThe embryos enter the uterus and begin to implant in the uterine wall. At this point, the mother may show no outward signs of pregnancy, but internally the embryos are starting to develop vital organs.\n\n<h4>Week 3 (days 14-21)<\/h4>\n\nThe embryos continue to grow, forming into early-stage foetuses. Around this time, a veterinarian might be able to detect pregnancy through an ultrasound. You or your breeder may also notice subtle changes to the mother's behaviour, such as increased tiredness or a slight decrease in appetite.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pregnant-dog-ultrasound.jpg\" alt=\"Pregnant dog undergoing ultrasound\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h4>Week 4 (days 21-28)<\/h4>\nThe foetuses begin to take shape, developing their eyes, spine, and other key structures. By the end of the first month they will have grown to around a centimetre long. The mother may start experiencing morning sickness due to hormonal changes, similar to early pregnancy in humans. \ud83e\udec3\ud83c\udffb\n\n<h4>What to do<\/h4>\n\nIf it's your dog that's pregnant, you should ensure she's eating a high-quality diet and avoiding strenuous exercise. Schedule a veterinary check-up around the 4-week mark to confirm the pregnancy and assess her overall health.\n\n<h3>Month 2: Rapid foetal growth (days 31-60)<\/h3>\n\n<h4>Week 5 (days 28-35)<\/h4>\n\nThe foetuses experience a growth spurt, developing their organs, limbs, and even their facial features. The mother's abdomen will start to swell as the puppies grow, but this can be quite subtle in appearance and will depend on her breed and weight prior to gestation. Her appetite may increase as her body requires more energy to support the developing litter.\n\n<h4>Week 6 (days 35-42)<\/h4>\n\nThe puppies' skeletons and fur begin to form, and around this time you might be able to feel slight movements in the mother's belly as the puppies move. Her mammary glands may also start to enlarge, in preparation for milk production. \ud83c\udf7c\n\n<h4>Week 7 (days 42-49)<\/h4>\n\nThe puppies' skeletons become more calcified, and at last they begin to resemble small dogs. The mother will noticeably gain weight, and her belly should grow quite round, with its size dependent on the litter size. She may show nesting behaviour, such as preparing a quiet, comfortable spot for the upcoming birth.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pregnant-dog-ultrasound_2.jpg\" alt=\"Ultrasound of puppies inside mother's womb\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h4>Week 8 (days 49-56)<\/h4>\n\nThe puppies are now almost fully developed in the womb and are positioning themselves for birth. The mother is likely to become more restless, and her appetite may decrease as the puppies press on her stomach and make it uncomfortable for her to eat large volumes of food. You may see clear signs of nesting as she prepares for labour. \ud83e\udeba\n\n<h4>What to do<\/h4>\n\nAt this stage, either you or the breeder should provide the mother with a comfortable, safe place to whelp. It's important to allow the mother to nest in a quiet, stress-free (child-free!) environment, and consider switching to a nutrient-rich puppy food that supports both her and her fast-developing puppies. Regular, gentle exercise is still good, but rough play or jumping should be avoided.\n\n<h3>Month 3: Preparing for birth (days 61-68)<\/h3>\n\n<h4>Week 9 (days 56-63)<\/h4>\n\nThe puppies are now fully developed and ready for birth.\n\nThe mother will show signs of preparing for labour, such as restlessness, pacing, and possibly refusing food. Her body temperature will drop to around 36.7\u00b0C (normal temperature for dogs is 38.3-38.9\u00b0C) about 24 hours before labour begins.\n\n<h4>Labour and delivery<\/h4>\n\nWhen labour begins, the mother will experience uterine contractions and the start of cervical dilation. This stage of labour can last anywhere from 6 to 12 hours. Once active labour begins, the puppies will be born, usually at intervals of 30-60 minutes. A typical litter consists of 4-6 puppies, but this can vary depending on the breed and size of the dog. \ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\n\n<h4>What to do<\/h4>\n\nAs the owner of a pregnant dog you'll be monitoring your dog closely for signs of labour, such as nesting, panting, or contractions. Ensure she has a quiet, clean, and comfortable whelping area. If labour takes too long or you notice any complications, such as prolonged straining without delivery, you should contact a veterinarian immediately.\n\nA dog's pregnancy is a relatively short but intense process, with rapid changes and development occurring over a span of just two months. As a pet owner, you play a vital role in ensuring your dog receives proper care, nutrition, and veterinary support throughout each stage. By understanding the month-by-month progression of her pregnancy, you can help create the best possible conditions for a healthy delivery and welcome her new puppies with confidence.\n\nIf you've reserved a puppy from a breeder's litter, then the health of the mother and her pups is their responsibility, so it's essential that you choose a breeder with care. If you have any doubt, look elsewhere - and if you're based in the UK, report any animal welfare concerns to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rspca.org.uk\/reportaconcern\" target=\"_blank\">RSPCA<\/a> and your local authority.\n\n<h2>Preparing for the new arrival<\/h2>\n\nIntroducing a new puppy into your home is an exciting experience, but it requires thorough preparation to ensure a smooth transition for you, your family and your new companion. From setting up a safe space to gathering essential supplies, the better prepared you are, the more comfortable and stress-free the process will be for everyone involved.\n\nFortunately, you've got plenty of time to get ready! If you've reserved a puppy from a litter, you'll not only have to patiently wait for the big day through to the pregnancy, but also the minimum eight-week nursing period - a necessity to ensure your puppy's development and good health.\n\nBelow are some key steps to take in the days and weeks leading up to your puppy's arrival from the breeder:\n\n<h3>1. Create a safe and comfortable space<\/h3>\n\nBefore your new puppy arrives it's important to create an area in your home that's quiet, free from hazards and accessible. Somewhere your new pup will be able to settle comfortably.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/crate-training-101.png\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/crate-training-101.png\" alt=\"Infographic on puppy crate training\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Credit: That Fish Place - That Pet Place<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Choose a crate or bed<\/strong><br>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.pdsa.org.uk\/pet-help-and-advice\/looking-after-your-pet\/puppies-dogs\/crate-training\" target=\"_blank\">A crate can provide a sense of security<\/a> and is a valuable tool for house training. Make sure it's big enough for your puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably in. Alternatively, place a cosy dog bed in a quiet spot, set away from foot traffic and the bustle of a busy home.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Puppy-proof the area<\/strong><br>\nAside from the discomfort of teething, puppies are naturally curious and may explore by chewing on things. Check the area for any potentially hazardous items, such as electrical cables, small objects they could swallow, and any toxic plants \ud83e\udeb4or substances \u2623\ufe0f within their reach. You may consider using baby gates to restrict access to certain rooms. \u26d4 If there are items of furniture you're keen not to see destroyed, placing them in the restricted rooms should save them. <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>2. Gather essential supplies<\/h3>\n\nTo make your puppy feel at home and to allow you to take care of their basic needs, stock up on essential supplies ahead of time. This will ensure you're ready for their arrival and won't have to rush out to the shops at the last minute. \ud83c\udfc3\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/border-collie-rope-toy.jpg\" alt=\"Border collie puppy playing with rope toy\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Food and water bowls<\/strong><br>\nChoose sturdy, non-tip bowls for your puppy's food and water. Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are easier to clean and more durable than plastic.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Puppy food<\/strong><br>\nAsk the breeder what food your puppy's been eating and try to stick with the same brand and type, at least initially, to avoid upsetting their stomach. If you want to switch foods later, transition to the new food gradually over a period of a week.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Chew toys<\/strong><br>\nPuppies love to chew, especially when teething. Provide them with a variety of safe chew toys to keep them entertained and prevent them from chewing on furniture or shoes. Rope toys or toys with knotted rope skeletons are the most durable.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Collar, lead, and ID tag<\/strong><br>\nGet an adjustable collar (because puppies grow quickly) and a sturdy lead for walks and training. Your new puppy should have been <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogstrust.org.uk\/dog-advice\/health-wellbeing\/essentials\/microchipping\" target=\"_blank\">microchipped<\/a> by the breeder before being released to you, but we still recommend a pet tag with your contact details in case your puppy gets lost. Place the tag on a house collar that your puppy wears all the time, in case they manage to escape your home or garden.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Puppy pads and cleaning supplies<\/strong><br>\nAccidents happen. In fact, with puppies they're inevitable, so be sure to have puppy pads for house training, as well as cleaning supplies on hand for quick clean-ups. There are carpet and upholstery cleaning products designed specifically to deal with dog-related accidents and odours.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>3. Prepare for house training<\/h3>\n\nHouse training should start from day one, so it's important to have a plan in place before your puppy arrives.\n\nConsistency is key, and setting up a routine will make the process smoother.\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Choose a bathroom spot<\/strong><br>\nDecide where you want your puppy to go to the bathroom, whether it's a spot in the garden or a designated indoor area with puppy pads. Take your puppy to this spot frequently, especially after meals, naps, and playtime. Remember that dog urine will kill grass and other foliage, so you may wish to avoid your puppy peeing on plants you care about.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Establish a schedule<\/strong><br>\nPuppies thrive on routine. Plan to take them out regularly, such as first thing in the morning, after eating, and before bedtime. Consistent scheduling helps them learn when and where to go.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Reward good behaviour \ud83c\udf1f<\/strong><br>\nUse positive reinforcement, such as treats and praise, when your puppy goes to the loo in the right spot. This helps them associate the behaviour with a reward and reinforces the habit.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>4. Find a veterinarian and schedule a check-up<\/h3>\n\nOne of the most important steps before your puppy comes home is finding a vet you trust, as your puppy will need a series of vaccinations and regular check-ups to ensure they stay healthy.\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Research local vets<\/strong><br>\nLook for veterinarians who are experienced with puppies and have good reviews from other pet owners. If possible, ask pet-owning friends, family and neighbours for recommendations.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Schedule an appointment \ud83d\udcc5<\/strong><br>\nBook your puppy's first vet visit within a few days of bringing them home. This initial check-up will confirm that your pup is healthy and allow you to ask any questions about vaccinations, deworming, and flea prevention.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>5. Research training techniques<\/h3>\n\nTraining your puppy will be an ongoing process, but it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with basic training principles before they arrive. The earlier you start with commands like \u201csit\u201d, \u201cstay\u201d and \u201ccome\u201d, the easier it will be for your puppy to learn.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-training-infographic.png\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-training-infographic.png\" alt=\"Infographic showing six puppy training tips\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Credit: Goofy Tails<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Positive reinforcement<\/strong><br>\nPuppies respond best to positive reinforcement, such as treats, praise, and play. Avoid punishment-based methods at all costs, as they lead to fear and anxiety.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Socialisation<\/strong><br>\nBegin introducing your puppy to different environments, people, and other animals gradually. Proper socialisation is essential for developing a confident and well-behaved dog. However, be careful not to allow your puppy to socialise with unvaccinated dogs until your puppy has had a full set of vaccinations administered. A single vaccination will not protect them during this period.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Consider puppy classes<\/strong><br>\nLook into local puppy training classes, which can help with basic obedience and socialisation in a structured environment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>6. Plan for the first few days<\/h3>\n\nThe first few days with your new puppy are crucial for bonding and establishing a routine. Set aside time to help them adjust to their new home.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-toilet-training-accident.jpg\" alt=\"Puppy toilet training accident\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Introduce them slowly<\/strong><br>\nAllow your puppy to explore their new surroundings at their own pace. Keep things calm and give them time to settle in. Bear in mind that if they have unsupervised access to your entire house, they're likely to cause damage and come across objects that could cause them harm.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Monitor feeding and bathroom habits \ud83d\udebd<\/strong><br>\nStick to a consistent feeding schedule, and take note of how often they need to go to the bathroom. This helps with house training and getting them into a routine.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Be patient \ud83e\udeb7<\/strong><br>\nPuppies need time to adjust to new environments. They may be nervous, restless, or even cry during the first few nights. Be patient and offer plenty of reassurance as they adapt. That said, don't crowd them or inundate them with visitors during the early phase of their introduction to your home. Your friends and family will no doubt be keen to meet the new addition, but lots of visitors - and especially young visitors - could result in unnecessary stress. Puppies tend to get on well with children but you should still be careful not to overstimulate them in the initial stages of their development.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>7. Prepare for long-term care<\/h3>\n\nIn addition to immediate preparations, it's important to think long-term about your puppy's care.\n\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n\t<li><strong>Budget for expenses \ud83d\udcb7<\/strong><br>\nPuppies come with ongoing costs, including food, vet visits, insurance, grooming, and supplies. Make sure you're financially prepared to meet these needs.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Plan for exercise and play<\/strong><br>\nIrrespective of the breed, puppies are balls of energy and will need plenty of physical and mental stimulation. Make time each day for walks, playtime, and training exercises.<\/li>\n\t<li><strong>Set rules for the household<\/strong><br>\nEstablish household rules early on, such as where the puppy is allowed to go and what behaviours are acceptable. Consistency from all family members will help your puppy learn faster. The saying \u201cyou can't teach an old dog new tricks\u201d holds true, as it's much simpler to establish lasting rules when training a puppy compared to a more mature dog.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\nPreparing for the arrival of your new puppy is an exciting process, and taking the time to get everything in place will help make the transition smoother for you, your family and your furry friend.\n\nBy creating a safe environment, gathering supplies, and planning ahead, you'll be ready to welcome your puppy into your home and start building a strong, loving bond from day one. \u2764\ufe0f","html":"<p>New arrivals are always exciting, but if your dog is pregnant or you've reserved a puppy from a breeder's litter and are counting down the days, the wait can feel eternal. \ud83d\udd5f<\/p>\n<p>Fortunately, there's plenty of prep you could be doing that will keep you busy and help make the long wait fly by!<\/p>\n<p>Keep reading to get some idea of what to expect as you wait on the birth of your new puppy, including tips on how to prepare for its arrival. We'll also touch on some of the challenges you might face in the early stages of introducing a puppy into your home. \ud83d\udca9<\/p>\n<h2>How long is gestation for dogs?<\/h2>\n<p><strong>A dog's pregnancy can last anywhere between 56 and 70 days, with the average gestation period lasting 63 days<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/I2sRAH-CHFk\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>How long the dog is pregnant is determined by several factors, including the dog's breed and its overall health.<\/p>\n<p>Larger breeds tend to experience longer gestation periods compared to smaller breeds, but this is not a strict rule and there can be exceptions.<\/p>\n<p>Older dogs aren't thought to have longer pregnancies on average, but as older dogs are more likely to suffer from health conditions and experience complications during gestation, the pregnancy may be a difficult one and therefore seem longer.<\/p>\n<p>Pregnancy can place significant physical stress on a dog, and in older dogs this stress is magnified. Older dogs are also at higher risk of delivering stillborn puppies or having litters with health problems. For these reasons, responsible breeders and pet owners usually retire dogs from breeding after five to seven years, depending on the breed and health of the dog.<\/p>\n<p>Close veterinary monitoring is advised throughout any pregnancy but especially so where older dogs are concerned, and it's wise to avoid pregnancy in dogs with pre-existing health conditions due to the increased risk to the mother and her litter.<\/p>\n<h2>What can lead to premature labour in dogs?<\/h2>\n<h3>Health issues<\/h3>\n<p>Conditions such as hormonal imbalances, infections or reproductive issues can cause a pregnancy to end earlier than expected, resulting in premature labour. This can be dangerous not only for the mother, but the puppies as well, with premature pups often needing help to survive infancy.<\/p>\n<h3>Stress<\/h3>\n<p>A mother dog that's stressed during gestation - due to environmental, nutritional or other issues - is more likely to end her pregnancy early compared to a dog living in better circumstances, and it's thought that these prenatal stresses could also impact the <a href=\"https:\/\/caninewelfare.centers.purdue.edu\/behavior\/puppy-development\/prenatal-stress\/\" target=\"_blank\">wellbeing and behaviour of her litter<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>This is why we strongly recommend you choose a breeder who allows you to visit the mother at her home and is open to you asking questions. <\/p>\n<p>If it's your dog that's pregnant, it's important to provide a quiet, comfortable space for her, particularly as her pregnancy progresses towards labour.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pregnant-dog-transition-puppy-food.png\" alt=\"Pregnant dog diet\">\n    <figcaption>Transition to puppy food after six weeks. Credit: Purina<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<p>Diet is also extremely important as it's necessary to maintain a dog's weight during pregnancy, and in the lead-up to labour she'll need more energy and nutrients. After six weeks gestation many breeders will <a href=\"https:\/\/www.thekennelclub.org.uk\/health-and-dog-care\/health\/health-and-care\/a-z-of-health-and-care-issues\/feeding-during-pregnancy\/\" target=\"_blank\">transition a pregnant bitch to puppy food<\/a>, as this is nutritionally more dense than adult food. A diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids (DHA) will also help puppy development in utero and during milk production. \ud83e\uddb4<\/p>\n<h3>Genetic factors<\/h3>\n<p>Certain smaller breeds of dog tend to have shorter gestation periods but this isn't a rule and it shouldn't result in premature labour.<\/p>\n<p>However, genetics may play a role in the timing of your puppy's delivery. If the mother has siblings that have experienced premature labour in the past, this could increase the likelihood that your puppy will be delivered prematurely, so it may be worth asking the breeder about the mother's family history as well as the dog's own medical history.<\/p>\n<h3>Number of prior pregnancies<\/h3>\n<p>A dog that's already had a number of pregnancies in the past may experience increasingly shorter gestation periods, but this wouldn't necessarily lead to premature labour, except in an older dog where age or a health condition were the root cause.<\/li><\/p>\n<h2>What causes a longer gestation period in dogs?<\/h2>\n<h3>Breed size<\/h3>\n<p>Again, this isn't a rule and doesn't normally lead to significant differences in the length of gestation, but some larger breeds \ud83d\udc29 do on average tend to have slightly longer pregnancies than smaller breeds.<\/p>\n<h3>Litter size<\/h3>\n<p>Although this may seem counterintuitive, mothers with a smaller litter may experience a longer pregnancy due to some of the hormonal signals that trigger labour not being as strong as they would have been had she had a larger litter.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/rhodesian-ridgeback-dog-nursing-litter.jpg\" alt=\"How long is gestation for dogs?\">\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Health problems<\/h3>\n<p>Certain health conditions, including uterine infections, can prevent the normal progression of pregnancy and delay the onset of labour. That's why responsible breeders will monitor pregnant bitches closely to ensure they're in good health throughout their pregnancy, and it's also why we recommend you visit the mother to get a sense of her health and wellbeing. \ud83d\udc15<\/p>\n<h3>Human error<\/h3>\n<p>Depending on how your puppy was conceived, it's not uncommon for breeders to get confused about the mating date or ovulation time. So if conception occurred later than was recorded, a normal gestation period may seem to be dragging out longer than it should, resulting in misplaced concern about the health of the mother and her litter.<\/p>\n<p>On the flip side, where conception occurred earlier than thought, a breeder may not recognise that a mother is experiencing an extended pregnancy and requires veterinary attention, and this is why responsible breeders do take great care to accurately record mating dates and ovulation.<\/p>\n<p>Dog owners unused to breeding dogs are more likely to make this kind of error, especially if the pregnancy was unplanned or the dog was allowed to continue mating following a planned conception.<\/p>\n<h3>Hormonal issues<\/h3>\n<p>If progesterone levels fail to drop sufficiently during gestation, the pregnancy can be extended and could result in difficult labour (known as dystocia).<\/p>\n<p>Oxytocin is another hormone that can impact the length of the gestation period as it triggers uterine contractions, initiating the birthing process, and also helps expel the placenta following delivery of the litter. Oxytocin deficiency can result in prolonged labour, retained placenta and increase the risk of postpartum bleeding.<\/p>\n<p>If a dog's pregnancy extends beyond 70 days, any responsible breeder will consult with a veterinarian who can check for potential complications or other health concerns. For example, synthetic oxytocin can be administered to stimulate labour, but only under veterinary supervision due to the possibility of complications.<\/p>\n<h2>Stages of pregnancy in dogs<\/h2>\n<p>Whether it's your dog that's pregnant or you've reserved a puppy from a breeder's litter, understanding dog gestation stages can help you monitor the health of the mother or simply prepare for the exciting arrival of her litter.<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/kpgWc2NxM7Y\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Here's a month-by-month breakdown of what to expect during the pregnancy.<\/p>\n<h3>Month 1: Fertilisation and early development (days 0-30)<\/h3>\n<h4>Week 1 (days 0-7)<\/h4>\n<p>Fertilisation occurs soon after mating, with sperm \ud83d\udca6 meeting the eggs in the fallopian tubes. The fertilised eggs begin dividing into cells and slowly travel to the uterus.<\/p>\n<h4>Week 2 (days 7-14)<\/h4>\n<p>The embryos enter the uterus and begin to implant in the uterine wall. At this point, the mother may show no outward signs of pregnancy, but internally the embryos are starting to develop vital organs.<\/p>\n<h4>Week 3 (days 14-21)<\/h4>\n<p>The embryos continue to grow, forming into early-stage foetuses. Around this time, a veterinarian might be able to detect pregnancy through an ultrasound. You or your breeder may also notice subtle changes to the mother's behaviour, such as increased tiredness or a slight decrease in appetite.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pregnant-dog-ultrasound.jpg\" alt=\"Pregnant dog undergoing ultrasound\">\n<\/figure>\n<h4>Week 4 (days 21-28)<\/h4>\n<p>The foetuses begin to take shape, developing their eyes, spine, and other key structures. By the end of the first month they will have grown to around a centimetre long. The mother may start experiencing morning sickness due to hormonal changes, similar to early pregnancy in humans. \ud83e\udec3\ud83c\udffb<\/p>\n<h4>What to do<\/h4>\n<p>If it's your dog that's pregnant, you should ensure she's eating a high-quality diet and avoiding strenuous exercise. Schedule a veterinary check-up around the 4-week mark to confirm the pregnancy and assess her overall health.<\/p>\n<h3>Month 2: Rapid foetal growth (days 31-60)<\/h3>\n<h4>Week 5 (days 28-35)<\/h4>\n<p>The foetuses experience a growth spurt, developing their organs, limbs, and even their facial features. The mother's abdomen will start to swell as the puppies grow, but this can be quite subtle in appearance and will depend on her breed and weight prior to gestation. Her appetite may increase as her body requires more energy to support the developing litter.<\/p>\n<h4>Week 6 (days 35-42)<\/h4>\n<p>The puppies' skeletons and fur begin to form, and around this time you might be able to feel slight movements in the mother's belly as the puppies move. Her mammary glands may also start to enlarge, in preparation for milk production. \ud83c\udf7c<\/p>\n<h4>Week 7 (days 42-49)<\/h4>\n<p>The puppies' skeletons become more calcified, and at last they begin to resemble small dogs. The mother will noticeably gain weight, and her belly should grow quite round, with its size dependent on the litter size. She may show nesting behaviour, such as preparing a quiet, comfortable spot for the upcoming birth.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pregnant-dog-ultrasound_2.jpg\" alt=\"Ultrasound of puppies inside mother's womb\">\n<\/figure>\n<h4>Week 8 (days 49-56)<\/h4>\n<p>The puppies are now almost fully developed in the womb and are positioning themselves for birth. The mother is likely to become more restless, and her appetite may decrease as the puppies press on her stomach and make it uncomfortable for her to eat large volumes of food. You may see clear signs of nesting as she prepares for labour. \ud83e\udeba<\/p>\n<h4>What to do<\/h4>\n<p>At this stage, either you or the breeder should provide the mother with a comfortable, safe place to whelp. It's important to allow the mother to nest in a quiet, stress-free (child-free!) environment, and consider switching to a nutrient-rich puppy food that supports both her and her fast-developing puppies. Regular, gentle exercise is still good, but rough play or jumping should be avoided.<\/p>\n<h3>Month 3: Preparing for birth (days 61-68)<\/h3>\n<h4>Week 9 (days 56-63)<\/h4>\n<p>The puppies are now fully developed and ready for birth.<\/p>\n<p>The mother will show signs of preparing for labour, such as restlessness, pacing, and possibly refusing food. Her body temperature will drop to around 36.7\u00b0C (normal temperature for dogs is 38.3-38.9\u00b0C) about 24 hours before labour begins.<\/p>\n<h4>Labour and delivery<\/h4>\n<p>When labour begins, the mother will experience uterine contractions and the start of cervical dilation. This stage of labour can last anywhere from 6 to 12 hours. Once active labour begins, the puppies will be born, usually at intervals of 30-60 minutes. A typical litter consists of 4-6 puppies, but this can vary depending on the breed and size of the dog. \ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36\ud83d\udc36<\/p>\n<h4>What to do<\/h4>\n<p>As the owner of a pregnant dog you'll be monitoring your dog closely for signs of labour, such as nesting, panting, or contractions. Ensure she has a quiet, clean, and comfortable whelping area. If labour takes too long or you notice any complications, such as prolonged straining without delivery, you should contact a veterinarian immediately.<\/p>\n<p>A dog's pregnancy is a relatively short but intense process, with rapid changes and development occurring over a span of just two months. As a pet owner, you play a vital role in ensuring your dog receives proper care, nutrition, and veterinary support throughout each stage. By understanding the month-by-month progression of her pregnancy, you can help create the best possible conditions for a healthy delivery and welcome her new puppies with confidence.<\/p>\n<p>If you've reserved a puppy from a breeder's litter, then the health of the mother and her pups is their responsibility, so it's essential that you choose a breeder with care. If you have any doubt, look elsewhere - and if you're based in the UK, report any animal welfare concerns to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rspca.org.uk\/reportaconcern\" target=\"_blank\">RSPCA<\/a> and your local authority.<\/p>\n<h2>Preparing for the new arrival<\/h2>\n<p>Introducing a new puppy into your home is an exciting experience, but it requires thorough preparation to ensure a smooth transition for you, your family and your new companion. From setting up a safe space to gathering essential supplies, the better prepared you are, the more comfortable and stress-free the process will be for everyone involved.<\/p>\n<p>Fortunately, you've got plenty of time to get ready! If you've reserved a puppy from a litter, you'll not only have to patiently wait for the big day through to the pregnancy, but also the minimum eight-week nursing period - a necessity to ensure your puppy's development and good health.<\/p>\n<p>Below are some key steps to take in the days and weeks leading up to your puppy's arrival from the breeder:<\/p>\n<h3>1. Create a safe and comfortable space<\/h3>\n<p>Before your new puppy arrives it's important to create an area in your home that's quiet, free from hazards and accessible. Somewhere your new pup will be able to settle comfortably.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/crate-training-101.png\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/crate-training-101.png\" alt=\"Infographic on puppy crate training\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Credit: That Fish Place - That Pet Place<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Choose a crate or bed<\/strong><br>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.pdsa.org.uk\/pet-help-and-advice\/looking-after-your-pet\/puppies-dogs\/crate-training\" target=\"_blank\">A crate can provide a sense of security<\/a> and is a valuable tool for house training. Make sure it's big enough for your puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably in. Alternatively, place a cosy dog bed in a quiet spot, set away from foot traffic and the bustle of a busy home.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Puppy-proof the area<\/strong><br>\nAside from the discomfort of teething, puppies are naturally curious and may explore by chewing on things. Check the area for any potentially hazardous items, such as electrical cables, small objects they could swallow, and any toxic plants \ud83e\udeb4or substances \u2623\ufe0f within their reach. You may consider using baby gates to restrict access to certain rooms. \u26d4 If there are items of furniture you're keen not to see destroyed, placing them in the restricted rooms should save them. <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>2. Gather essential supplies<\/h3>\n<p>To make your puppy feel at home and to allow you to take care of their basic needs, stock up on essential supplies ahead of time. This will ensure you're ready for their arrival and won't have to rush out to the shops at the last minute. \ud83c\udfc3\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/border-collie-rope-toy.jpg\" alt=\"Border collie puppy playing with rope toy\">\n<\/figure>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Food and water bowls<\/strong><br>\nChoose sturdy, non-tip bowls for your puppy's food and water. Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are easier to clean and more durable than plastic.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Puppy food<\/strong><br>\nAsk the breeder what food your puppy's been eating and try to stick with the same brand and type, at least initially, to avoid upsetting their stomach. If you want to switch foods later, transition to the new food gradually over a period of a week.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Chew toys<\/strong><br>\nPuppies love to chew, especially when teething. Provide them with a variety of safe chew toys to keep them entertained and prevent them from chewing on furniture or shoes. Rope toys or toys with knotted rope skeletons are the most durable.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Collar, lead, and ID tag<\/strong><br>\nGet an adjustable collar (because puppies grow quickly) and a sturdy lead for walks and training. Your new puppy should have been <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogstrust.org.uk\/dog-advice\/health-wellbeing\/essentials\/microchipping\" target=\"_blank\">microchipped<\/a> by the breeder before being released to you, but we still recommend a pet tag with your contact details in case your puppy gets lost. Place the tag on a house collar that your puppy wears all the time, in case they manage to escape your home or garden.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Puppy pads and cleaning supplies<\/strong><br>\nAccidents happen. In fact, with puppies they're inevitable, so be sure to have puppy pads for house training, as well as cleaning supplies on hand for quick clean-ups. There are carpet and upholstery cleaning products designed specifically to deal with dog-related accidents and odours.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>3. Prepare for house training<\/h3>\n<p>House training should start from day one, so it's important to have a plan in place before your puppy arrives.<\/p>\n<p>Consistency is key, and setting up a routine will make the process smoother.<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Choose a bathroom spot<\/strong><br>\nDecide where you want your puppy to go to the bathroom, whether it's a spot in the garden or a designated indoor area with puppy pads. Take your puppy to this spot frequently, especially after meals, naps, and playtime. Remember that dog urine will kill grass and other foliage, so you may wish to avoid your puppy peeing on plants you care about.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Establish a schedule<\/strong><br>\nPuppies thrive on routine. Plan to take them out regularly, such as first thing in the morning, after eating, and before bedtime. Consistent scheduling helps them learn when and where to go.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Reward good behaviour \ud83c\udf1f<\/strong><br>\nUse positive reinforcement, such as treats and praise, when your puppy goes to the loo in the right spot. This helps them associate the behaviour with a reward and reinforces the habit.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>4. Find a veterinarian and schedule a check-up<\/h3>\n<p>One of the most important steps before your puppy comes home is finding a vet you trust, as your puppy will need a series of vaccinations and regular check-ups to ensure they stay healthy.<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Research local vets<\/strong><br>\nLook for veterinarians who are experienced with puppies and have good reviews from other pet owners. If possible, ask pet-owning friends, family and neighbours for recommendations.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Schedule an appointment \ud83d\udcc5<\/strong><br>\nBook your puppy's first vet visit within a few days of bringing them home. This initial check-up will confirm that your pup is healthy and allow you to ask any questions about vaccinations, deworming, and flea prevention.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>5. Research training techniques<\/h3>\n<p>Training your puppy will be an ongoing process, but it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with basic training principles before they arrive. The earlier you start with commands like \u201csit\u201d, \u201cstay\u201d and \u201ccome\u201d, the easier it will be for your puppy to learn.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-training-infographic.png\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-training-infographic.png\" alt=\"Infographic showing six puppy training tips\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Credit: Goofy Tails<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Positive reinforcement<\/strong><br>\nPuppies respond best to positive reinforcement, such as treats, praise, and play. Avoid punishment-based methods at all costs, as they lead to fear and anxiety.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Socialisation<\/strong><br>\nBegin introducing your puppy to different environments, people, and other animals gradually. Proper socialisation is essential for developing a confident and well-behaved dog. However, be careful not to allow your puppy to socialise with unvaccinated dogs until your puppy has had a full set of vaccinations administered. A single vaccination will not protect them during this period.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Consider puppy classes<\/strong><br>\nLook into local puppy training classes, which can help with basic obedience and socialisation in a structured environment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>6. Plan for the first few days<\/h3>\n<p>The first few days with your new puppy are crucial for bonding and establishing a routine. Set aside time to help them adjust to their new home.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-toilet-training-accident.jpg\" alt=\"Puppy toilet training accident\">\n<\/figure>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Introduce them slowly<\/strong><br>\nAllow your puppy to explore their new surroundings at their own pace. Keep things calm and give them time to settle in. Bear in mind that if they have unsupervised access to your entire house, they're likely to cause damage and come across objects that could cause them harm.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Monitor feeding and bathroom habits \ud83d\udebd<\/strong><br>\nStick to a consistent feeding schedule, and take note of how often they need to go to the bathroom. This helps with house training and getting them into a routine.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Be patient \ud83e\udeb7<\/strong><br>\nPuppies need time to adjust to new environments. They may be nervous, restless, or even cry during the first few nights. Be patient and offer plenty of reassurance as they adapt. That said, don't crowd them or inundate them with visitors during the early phase of their introduction to your home. Your friends and family will no doubt be keen to meet the new addition, but lots of visitors - and especially young visitors - could result in unnecessary stress. Puppies tend to get on well with children but you should still be careful not to overstimulate them in the initial stages of their development.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>7. Prepare for long-term care<\/h3>\n<p>In addition to immediate preparations, it's important to think long-term about your puppy's care.<\/p>\n<ul class=\"loose\">\n    <li><strong>Budget for expenses \ud83d\udcb7<\/strong><br>\nPuppies come with ongoing costs, including food, vet visits, insurance, grooming, and supplies. Make sure you're financially prepared to meet these needs.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Plan for exercise and play<\/strong><br>\nIrrespective of the breed, puppies are balls of energy and will need plenty of physical and mental stimulation. Make time each day for walks, playtime, and training exercises.<\/li>\n    <li><strong>Set rules for the household<\/strong><br>\nEstablish household rules early on, such as where the puppy is allowed to go and what behaviours are acceptable. Consistency from all family members will help your puppy learn faster. The saying \u201cyou can't teach an old dog new tricks\u201d holds true, as it's much simpler to establish lasting rules when training a puppy compared to a more mature dog.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Preparing for the arrival of your new puppy is an exciting process, and taking the time to get everything in place will help make the transition smoother for you, your family and your furry friend.<\/p>\n<p>By creating a safe environment, gathering supplies, and planning ahead, you'll be ready to welcome your puppy into your home and start building a strong, loving bond from day one. \u2764\ufe0f<\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-09-11 15:03:04","updated":"2024-09-12 19:12:19","author":"1","category":"5","status":"published","comments":"1"}},{"data":{"id":"2","title":"How to Keep a House Clean with Dogs: 12 Tips for a Tidy Home","slug":"how-to-keep-a-house-clean-with-dogs-12-tips-for-a-tidy-home","description":"","markdown":"When my partner was campaigning to fill our home with pets, one of my objections was that our clean and well-maintained home may never be the same again.\n\n<strong>As a once reluctant dog owner (now fully converted), I'm pleased to report that it's possible to have furry friends AND a clean home. \ud83d\udc4d<\/strong>\n\nWhilst our home won't ever be the same again, it's for the right reasons and not because we're drowning in dog hair.\n\nOwning our retired racing greyhound, Paso, has been beneficial to our mental health and general wellbeing, undoubtedly helped us manage the lockdown blues and has changed our lives immeasurably - only for the better. But it did take us a little while to figure out how to keep our home super clean with a dog kicking around the place.\n\nRead on to find out what we learned along the way\u2026 \ud83d\udc69\u200d\ud83c\udf93\n\n<h2>1. A clean pet makes for a clean home<\/h2>\n\nYou'll find it much easier to share your home with a clean, well-groomed and pleasant smelling animal.\n\nThere will be less fur on your carpet, less mud on the walls and no unpleasant, lingering odours.\n\nThis may seem obvious but it's the most important lesson we learned, and some of the changes we made to Paso's grooming regime had the biggest impact on the cleanliness of our home.\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/nDzMGEIvRuQ\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nGreyhounds are short haired creatures - in fact some are practically bald on the belly and bum - but despite this, they do drop a moderate amount of hair.\n\nTo mitigate this we have him groomed professionally every few weeks. Shampoo, condition, a good brush, ears cleaned and nails clipped. He loves going to see the groomer, so no issues there.\n\nIn between these pro-grooms we make sure we brush him regularly to remove any hair that would otherwise have dropped onto our floor surfaces. We typically brush him outside so any stray hairs falling from the brush will just blow away, instead of adding to the housework!\n\nWe also hose down his paws after each walk, or at least wipe them with compostable water wipes. Even if you've not walked a muddy route, vehicle oil, road salt and various other nasties are liable to get walked into your home by your dog. \ud83d\udc3e\n\nIf your dog likes swimming in lakes and rivers then a proper shampoo and hose down is necessary so they don't fill your house with that unpleasant swampy smell, and this will also help ensure your dog's health, bearing in mind the contaminants present in our waterways thanks to agricultural runoff etc.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cat-bath-clean.jpg\" alt=\"Cat having a bath\">\n<\/figure>\n\nCats tend to come and go as they please so this may be a little more difficult, but they also tend to keep themselves cleaner. Just make sure you brush their fur regularly and watch out for paw prints on glass if an open window is their usual means of entry to your home. Cats are also less likely to enjoy a dip in the river - ours only ended up there by mistake, and once in the fish tank but that's another story.\n\n<h2>2. Buy a machine washable bed or a bed with a washable cover<\/h2>\n\nDog and cat beds can be a breeding ground for bacteria, viruses, fungi and parasites such as fleas, mites and worms. In fact, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogingtonpost.com\/dogs-bed-top-10-germiest-places\" target=\"_blank\">dog beds consistently rank in the top 10 germiest things in the home<\/a>, and even with our improved grooming regime we still find that Paso's bed collects some nasties, including dirt, grass, hair, dander and leftover bits of treat. He once brought a slug inside with him, and slugs aren't ideal in the garden let alone the living room.\n\nDespite this, few people wash their pets' beds as frequently as they should, especially those who own beds that aren't suited to being regularly cleaned.\n\nThere are beds on the market that are treated with antimicrobial coatings, others that have hypoallergenic filling material and some even claim to be flea-resistant, which are all welcome innovations - but the most important thing to consider is how easy the bed is to keep clean. There's nothing so easy as sticking something in the washing machine, and that's why we recommend buying a bed that's machine washable or has a washable outer cover.\n\nLaunder the bed or outer cover once a week using the recommended setting and if possible dry it on a high heat to ensure you kill anything that may still be lurking. You could time this to coincide with your pet being groomed, as they'll get to return home to fresh bedding and your home will smell the better for it. \ud83c\udf3c\n\nA clean bed is crucial to the health of your dog, the wellbeing of your family and is necessary if you want your home to smell fresh.\n\n<h2>3. Disinfect everything your pet touches<\/h2>\n\nThat sounds pretty dramatic, but the reality is that our pets are often attracted to some very unpleasant things, from food waste and animal carcasses to faeces \ud83d\udca9 and urine. However clean you think your dog or cat is, there's a pretty good chance they're harbouring bacteria that could be harmful to you and your family, so it's important to take precautions to ensure the safety of your household.\n\nSalmonella, staphylococcus, campylobacter and noroviruses are just a handful of the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pmc\/articles\/PMC5319273\/\" target=\"_blank\">many types of bacteria<\/a> that your dog or cat could unwittingly transmit, not only through direct contact but through the contamination of surfaces in your home.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-countertop-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Cavalier King Charles spaniel sat on kitchen countertop\">\n<\/figure>\n\nHowever, practicing good hygiene can mitigate much of the risk. We've already talked about keeping our pets clean, but it's also important to disinfect everything they touch that you or members of your household may also touch. For example, hard flooring should be disinfected regularly and pets should be discouraged from walking on countertops or any other surface used in the preparation of food. To be on the safe side, wipe down surfaces with an antibacterial spray prior to preparing or serving food.\n\nPet toys should also be regularly cleaned and disinfected, particularly if you have young children who may pick them up and play with them.\n\nRemember to rinse away antibacterial products with warm water or use less harsh products on surfaces that are used by your pets, as some cleaning chemicals contain toxic ingredients that can burn paws, irritate eyes and even damage internal organs when ingested.\n\n<h2>4. Buy a vacuum designed to tackle pet hair<\/h2>\n\nHere's a mistake that we made (so you don't have to)\u2026\n\nWe bought a very good quality vacuum cleaner that nevertheless, frequently got clogged up with pet hair and had filters that were difficult to clean. The rotating brushes were also a nightmare to maintain and Emma's long hair would often wind tightly around the roller.\n\nWe'd strongly recommend you own a vacuum cleaner designed specifically for dealing with pet hair, and if you or anyone in your family has long hair, look out for the anti hair wrap feature. These models tend to be much easier to clean and their components are designed to tackle pet hair without clogging.\n\nThey also tend to be quite a bit more expensive, but if you can afford it then the pay-off is definitely going to be worth it in the long run.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-hair-home-infographic.png\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-hair-home-infographic.png\" alt=\"Infographic about controlling pet hair in the home\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Source: Chadwicks<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h2>5. Use a microfibre mop on hard floors to keep on top of pet hair<\/h2>\n\nTraditional wet mops aren't ideal for cleaning pet hair because that hair has a tendency to stick around - either in the bucket or on the mop, or on the floor if all you've managed to do is move it around a bit.\n\nA multipurpose wet and dry microfibre mop is ideal for this task because you can dust mop thousands of square feet of floor surface with ease, collecting and disposing of pet hair as you go, before wet mopping to remove stains from spillages or built-up dirt that's been tracked into your home. In most cases these mops have reusable pads that can be laundered, although you'll want to remove as much pet fur as possible before placing them in the washing machine.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/microfibre-mop-floor.jpg\" alt=\"Woman using microfibre mop on floor\">\n<\/figure>\n\nWe use a dual-sided mop with a standard microfibre wiping surface on one side and a chenille or 'noodle' material on the other. This design is extremely versatile, with each wiping surface suited to a variety of different tasks and floor surfaces. Scrubbing strips help you tackle the most stubborn water spots and dirty marks.\n\nSome mop designs - such as the Flash Powermop or Swiffer WetJet - allow you to spray solution as you go thanks to their inbuilt spray nozzles, but this is a luxury that you'll get along fine without.\n\n<h2>6. Clean as you go with a handheld vacuum<\/h2>\n\nIf you have to drag the upright vacuum out of the closet every time you spot a clump of cat hair, you might be tempted to leave it where it is. However, life's much easier when you can simply reach for the cordless handheld vacuum, as this allows you to keep on top of smaller amounts of dirt and debris before it builds up or gets tracked into other rooms. Handhelds are also great for tackling stairs where larger vacuums can be cumbersome, or little nooks and crannies such as kitchen plinths and under couch cushions.\n\nThere are several models intended to deal with pet hair and while they may cost a little extra, they're worth investing in for the powered brush head and upgraded internal sealing. Some of the best handheld vacuums on the market are simply not suited to dealing with pet hair and should be avoided by pet owners. For example, our 18v dustbuster Pivot worked flawlessly until it had dog hair to contend with, which eventually worked its way past the seals and into the motor etc.\n\nLook for higher powered models (18v+) to ensure your vacuum has plenty of suction but be mindful that more power may mean less time before the battery needs a charge - 15-20 minutes is typical.\n\nBear in mind that while handheld vacuums excel at spot cleaning, most models don't have the suction power or durability to tackle the dirtiest jobs, and with their small brush heads and nozzles they aren't designed to clean larger areas. Bite off more than your handheld vacuum can chew and you'll probably run out of battery before you get the job done.\n\nIf you find that it's in the kitchen that your handheld does most of its work, then you might want to consider a kitchen plinth vacuum. Use your microfibre mop to push dirt and pet hair near the device, kick the switch and watch the accumulated debris disappear.\n\nOn a budget? A dustpan and brush will do the job, although not as quickly or as conveniently.\n\n<h2>7. Place an easy to clean mat under your pet's food bowls<\/h2>\n\nPaso has a tendency to remove some of his food from the bowl and drop it on the floor while he's figuring out how best to eat it. He also splashes water all over the place - not ideal if you have a hardwood floor in your kitchen, or tiles with grout that may stain.\n\nA silicone feeding mat you can place under your pet's bowls can be easily cleaned in the sink, which means you don't have to go for the mop and bucket every time your dog or cat makes a mess. They often come with a raised lip all around the edge, so water shouldn't escape the mat.\n\nA fabric mat may be machine washable but doesn't make for a great feeding mat. If left on the floor while damp, damage could be done to the surface.\n\nWe implied earlier that you'll be feeding your animals in the kitchen, but that may not be the room with the most appropriate flooring. Feed them wherever the floor is least likely to be damaged by any food and drink that leaves the bowl without making it into their belly. A tiled utility room for example.\n\nAlso bear in mind that any nearby walls might get caught in the crossfire... Water and food stains on painted walls can be difficult to remove and may cause lasting damage to painted surfaces (more on that next). Radiators can rust when frequently splashed with water.\n\n<h2>8. Decorate using washable paint<\/h2>\n\nIt's not just mealtime misdemeanours that can ruin your wallpaper and painted walls.\n\nMud and rainwater brought inside and shaken off after a walk can do harm to wall surfaces, as can slobber. None of our pets have been super slobbery but their saliva has still ended up finding its way onto walls, mirrors, windows\u2026 you name it. Wet noses also transfer nasal discharge (yep) onto clothes, windows and walls.\n\nIf you're keen to cover walls with paper make sure it's a wipeable paper, which will likely be coated with vinyl and suited to scrubbing clean.\n\nIf you prefer paint, there are a number of brands that manufacture washable paints that can be cleaned with a sponge and mild detergent. Some of the more durable paints can even be scrubbed quite vigorously without the surface being affected. These are ideal for kids armed with crayons as well as the family dog spraying mud around the place.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cleaning-painted-wall.jpg\" alt=\"Using magic eraser to remove crayon from wall\">\n<\/figure>\n\nA good quality, standard vinyl paint may handle occasional cleaning with a non-abrasive cloth, but some paint will likely be transferred to the cloth and the surface finish may be damaged if you're not careful.\n\n<h2>9. Use an absorbent 'dirt trapper' or barrier doormat<\/h2>\n\nEven after a thorough hosing down, Paso still manages to bring a bit of outside indoors. And like many dogs, he has a tendency to wait until he's inside before shaking himself off.\n\nA super absorbent 'dirt trapper' mat will capture muck from boots and dog paws alike before it gets tracked further into your home, and most are machine washable once you've given them a vigorous shake outside to remove any gritty material. Barrier mats also dry quickly on the line or in the drier but we have two in rotation that we switch out when one's in the laundry.\n\nIf you have a wooden floor that could get damaged by a damp mat, we recommend you use a design that has an impermeable plastic backing material, or you could place your absorbent mat on top of a non-slip plastic mat.\n\n<h2>10. Make good use of throws and slipcovers<\/h2>\n\nAs greyhound owners we fully expected to be sharing the sofa with the dog, but we soon discovered that Paso's fixation with staying warm meant that he wasn't interested in laying on our leather upholstered Chesterfield, as it's cool to the touch even in summer.\n\nThat said, if our furniture was more to his liking, we're confident we'd have the same problem keeping him off it as we do keeping him off our bed!\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/messy-dog-couch-sofa.jpg\" alt=\"Dog watching TV and making a mess on sofa\">\n<\/figure>\n\nTo prevent dirt or oily residue making its way onto your furniture, throws can be an inexpensive way to avoid costly disasters. It does seem a shame to buy furniture because you like the design or the upholstery and then hide it from view under a large throw, but if you can encourage your dog to lay only on the throw you may get away with covering just part of your sofa. Avoid throws that are loosely knit as claws will get caught and more dirt and grit will make its way through compared to a material that's tightly woven.\n\nSlipcovers are also ideal for pet owners as they can be machine washed, dyed if necessary and even replaced fairly easily. If you're spot cleaning a slipcover we recommend removing it first to avoid moisture or the stain itself from penetrating further.\n\nIf you're struggling to keep your pets off the bed and are worried about muck and fur soiling your clean bedding, a heavy duty bedspread or bed throw should do the job.\n\nShake throws off outside before placing them in the laundry, as this will reduce the amount of fur and grit that makes its way into your washing machine.\n\nIf you're concerned about washing pet throws and mats in the same washing machine as your clothes, you can use washing machine cleaner in between loads or antibacterial additives when washing pet-related stuff. These products kill up to 99.9% of bacteria and some even include descaler to remove limescale that may compromise the performance of your washing machine.\n\n<h2>11. Buy a secure bin and lock down your food<\/h2>\n\nIf you have a food-motivated pet we recommend investing in a kitchen bin that's inaccessible to your dog or cat. Something like a pedal bin should do the job, and the heavier the better as a food-driven breed that's a bit more switched-on than our greyhound would have no trouble knocking over a lightweight bin to get at what's inside.\n\nThe main concern here is the health and wellbeing of your pet - chicken bones and chocolate can be fatal - but secondary to that is avoiding the re-decoration of your kitchen with last night's leftovers.\n\nSome pets don't know when to give up, however, and the most persistent may just have to be kept out of the kitchen. \ud83d\ude3f\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cat-stealing-food.jpg\" alt=\"Cat eying up fish placed on dining table\">\n<\/figure>\n\nIt's also important to make sure that any food - including pet food - isn't left in accessible locations. Some breeds of dog in particular will literally gorge themselves to death given the opportunity, so food must be kept out of reach at all times. Even close supervision might not be enough - I recently took my eye off Paso for a few seconds to catch him trotting back to his bed with a freshly baked lemon butterfly cake.\n\n<h2>12. Keep your car clean with a waterproof boot liner or seat covers<\/h2>\n\nWe're diverging from the clean home theme here but I'll take any opportunity to rave about our boot liner, which has saved our car upholstery over and over again.\n\nDespite Paso being an ex-racer who travelled throughout the North East and beyond to compete, he's prone to travel sickness and usually does the deed a couple minutes before we arrive at our destination. This was a big deal when it filled the boot with sick, but the clean-up is so much easier now that we have a waterproof, machine washable boot liner that covers the entire boot space. These are available in various different sizes depending on boot size and whether you're travelling with flattened rear seats, and offer protection from muck, pee, drool and vomit. Waterproof seat covers and hammock-like designs that can be placed between the front and rear seats are also available.\n\nIf the accident happens on the outward trip, we carry a large bottle of water that allows us to quickly remove the mess, and then we'll either hose down or launder the liner once we've returned home.\n\nSo now you're hopefully armed with a few new tips to go with the ones that are already working for you, which we'd love to hear about in the comments! \ud83d\udcac","html":"<p>When my partner was campaigning to fill our home with pets, one of my objections was that our clean and well-maintained home may never be the same again.<\/p>\n<p><strong>As a once reluctant dog owner (now fully converted), I'm pleased to report that it's possible to have furry friends AND a clean home. \ud83d\udc4d<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Whilst our home won't ever be the same again, it's for the right reasons and not because we're drowning in dog hair.<\/p>\n<p>Owning our retired racing greyhound, Paso, has been beneficial to our mental health and general wellbeing, undoubtedly helped us manage the lockdown blues and has changed our lives immeasurably - only for the better. But it did take us a little while to figure out how to keep our home super clean with a dog kicking around the place.<\/p>\n<p>Read on to find out what we learned along the way\u2026 \ud83d\udc69\u200d\ud83c\udf93<\/p>\n<h2>1. A clean pet makes for a clean home<\/h2>\n<p>You'll find it much easier to share your home with a clean, well-groomed and pleasant smelling animal.<\/p>\n<p>There will be less fur on your carpet, less mud on the walls and no unpleasant, lingering odours.<\/p>\n<p>This may seem obvious but it's the most important lesson we learned, and some of the changes we made to Paso's grooming regime had the biggest impact on the cleanliness of our home.<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/nDzMGEIvRuQ\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Greyhounds are short haired creatures - in fact some are practically bald on the belly and bum - but despite this, they do drop a moderate amount of hair.<\/p>\n<p>To mitigate this we have him groomed professionally every few weeks. Shampoo, condition, a good brush, ears cleaned and nails clipped. He loves going to see the groomer, so no issues there.<\/p>\n<p>In between these pro-grooms we make sure we brush him regularly to remove any hair that would otherwise have dropped onto our floor surfaces. We typically brush him outside so any stray hairs falling from the brush will just blow away, instead of adding to the housework!<\/p>\n<p>We also hose down his paws after each walk, or at least wipe them with compostable water wipes. Even if you've not walked a muddy route, vehicle oil, road salt and various other nasties are liable to get walked into your home by your dog. \ud83d\udc3e<\/p>\n<p>If your dog likes swimming in lakes and rivers then a proper shampoo and hose down is necessary so they don't fill your house with that unpleasant swampy smell, and this will also help ensure your dog's health, bearing in mind the contaminants present in our waterways thanks to agricultural runoff etc.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cat-bath-clean.jpg\" alt=\"Cat having a bath\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Cats tend to come and go as they please so this may be a little more difficult, but they also tend to keep themselves cleaner. Just make sure you brush their fur regularly and watch out for paw prints on glass if an open window is their usual means of entry to your home. Cats are also less likely to enjoy a dip in the river - ours only ended up there by mistake, and once in the fish tank but that's another story.<\/p>\n<h2>2. Buy a machine washable bed or a bed with a washable cover<\/h2>\n<p>Dog and cat beds can be a breeding ground for bacteria, viruses, fungi and parasites such as fleas, mites and worms. In fact, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dogingtonpost.com\/dogs-bed-top-10-germiest-places\" target=\"_blank\">dog beds consistently rank in the top 10 germiest things in the home<\/a>, and even with our improved grooming regime we still find that Paso's bed collects some nasties, including dirt, grass, hair, dander and leftover bits of treat. He once brought a slug inside with him, and slugs aren't ideal in the garden let alone the living room.<\/p>\n<p>Despite this, few people wash their pets' beds as frequently as they should, especially those who own beds that aren't suited to being regularly cleaned.<\/p>\n<p>There are beds on the market that are treated with antimicrobial coatings, others that have hypoallergenic filling material and some even claim to be flea-resistant, which are all welcome innovations - but the most important thing to consider is how easy the bed is to keep clean. There's nothing so easy as sticking something in the washing machine, and that's why we recommend buying a bed that's machine washable or has a washable outer cover.<\/p>\n<p>Launder the bed or outer cover once a week using the recommended setting and if possible dry it on a high heat to ensure you kill anything that may still be lurking. You could time this to coincide with your pet being groomed, as they'll get to return home to fresh bedding and your home will smell the better for it. \ud83c\udf3c<\/p>\n<p>A clean bed is crucial to the health of your dog, the wellbeing of your family and is necessary if you want your home to smell fresh.<\/p>\n<h2>3. Disinfect everything your pet touches<\/h2>\n<p>That sounds pretty dramatic, but the reality is that our pets are often attracted to some very unpleasant things, from food waste and animal carcasses to faeces \ud83d\udca9 and urine. However clean you think your dog or cat is, there's a pretty good chance they're harbouring bacteria that could be harmful to you and your family, so it's important to take precautions to ensure the safety of your household.<\/p>\n<p>Salmonella, staphylococcus, campylobacter and noroviruses are just a handful of the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pmc\/articles\/PMC5319273\/\" target=\"_blank\">many types of bacteria<\/a> that your dog or cat could unwittingly transmit, not only through direct contact but through the contamination of surfaces in your home.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-countertop-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Cavalier King Charles spaniel sat on kitchen countertop\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>However, practicing good hygiene can mitigate much of the risk. We've already talked about keeping our pets clean, but it's also important to disinfect everything they touch that you or members of your household may also touch. For example, hard flooring should be disinfected regularly and pets should be discouraged from walking on countertops or any other surface used in the preparation of food. To be on the safe side, wipe down surfaces with an antibacterial spray prior to preparing or serving food.<\/p>\n<p>Pet toys should also be regularly cleaned and disinfected, particularly if you have young children who may pick them up and play with them.<\/p>\n<p>Remember to rinse away antibacterial products with warm water or use less harsh products on surfaces that are used by your pets, as some cleaning chemicals contain toxic ingredients that can burn paws, irritate eyes and even damage internal organs when ingested.<\/p>\n<h2>4. Buy a vacuum designed to tackle pet hair<\/h2>\n<p>Here's a mistake that we made (so you don't have to)\u2026<\/p>\n<p>We bought a very good quality vacuum cleaner that nevertheless, frequently got clogged up with pet hair and had filters that were difficult to clean. The rotating brushes were also a nightmare to maintain and Emma's long hair would often wind tightly around the roller.<\/p>\n<p>We'd strongly recommend you own a vacuum cleaner designed specifically for dealing with pet hair, and if you or anyone in your family has long hair, look out for the anti hair wrap feature. These models tend to be much easier to clean and their components are designed to tackle pet hair without clogging.<\/p>\n<p>They also tend to be quite a bit more expensive, but if you can afford it then the pay-off is definitely going to be worth it in the long run.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-hair-home-infographic.png\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/pet-hair-home-infographic.png\" alt=\"Infographic about controlling pet hair in the home\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Source: Chadwicks<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h2>5. Use a microfibre mop on hard floors to keep on top of pet hair<\/h2>\n<p>Traditional wet mops aren't ideal for cleaning pet hair because that hair has a tendency to stick around - either in the bucket or on the mop, or on the floor if all you've managed to do is move it around a bit.<\/p>\n<p>A multipurpose wet and dry microfibre mop is ideal for this task because you can dust mop thousands of square feet of floor surface with ease, collecting and disposing of pet hair as you go, before wet mopping to remove stains from spillages or built-up dirt that's been tracked into your home. In most cases these mops have reusable pads that can be laundered, although you'll want to remove as much pet fur as possible before placing them in the washing machine.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/microfibre-mop-floor.jpg\" alt=\"Woman using microfibre mop on floor\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>We use a dual-sided mop with a standard microfibre wiping surface on one side and a chenille or 'noodle' material on the other. This design is extremely versatile, with each wiping surface suited to a variety of different tasks and floor surfaces. Scrubbing strips help you tackle the most stubborn water spots and dirty marks.<\/p>\n<p>Some mop designs - such as the Flash Powermop or Swiffer WetJet - allow you to spray solution as you go thanks to their inbuilt spray nozzles, but this is a luxury that you'll get along fine without.<\/p>\n<h2>6. Clean as you go with a handheld vacuum<\/h2>\n<p>If you have to drag the upright vacuum out of the closet every time you spot a clump of cat hair, you might be tempted to leave it where it is. However, life's much easier when you can simply reach for the cordless handheld vacuum, as this allows you to keep on top of smaller amounts of dirt and debris before it builds up or gets tracked into other rooms. Handhelds are also great for tackling stairs where larger vacuums can be cumbersome, or little nooks and crannies such as kitchen plinths and under couch cushions.<\/p>\n<p>There are several models intended to deal with pet hair and while they may cost a little extra, they're worth investing in for the powered brush head and upgraded internal sealing. Some of the best handheld vacuums on the market are simply not suited to dealing with pet hair and should be avoided by pet owners. For example, our 18v dustbuster Pivot worked flawlessly until it had dog hair to contend with, which eventually worked its way past the seals and into the motor etc.<\/p>\n<p>Look for higher powered models (18v+) to ensure your vacuum has plenty of suction but be mindful that more power may mean less time before the battery needs a charge - 15-20 minutes is typical.<\/p>\n<p>Bear in mind that while handheld vacuums excel at spot cleaning, most models don't have the suction power or durability to tackle the dirtiest jobs, and with their small brush heads and nozzles they aren't designed to clean larger areas. Bite off more than your handheld vacuum can chew and you'll probably run out of battery before you get the job done.<\/p>\n<p>If you find that it's in the kitchen that your handheld does most of its work, then you might want to consider a kitchen plinth vacuum. Use your microfibre mop to push dirt and pet hair near the device, kick the switch and watch the accumulated debris disappear.<\/p>\n<p>On a budget? A dustpan and brush will do the job, although not as quickly or as conveniently.<\/p>\n<h2>7. Place an easy to clean mat under your pet's food bowls<\/h2>\n<p>Paso has a tendency to remove some of his food from the bowl and drop it on the floor while he's figuring out how best to eat it. He also splashes water all over the place - not ideal if you have a hardwood floor in your kitchen, or tiles with grout that may stain.<\/p>\n<p>A silicone feeding mat you can place under your pet's bowls can be easily cleaned in the sink, which means you don't have to go for the mop and bucket every time your dog or cat makes a mess. They often come with a raised lip all around the edge, so water shouldn't escape the mat.<\/p>\n<p>A fabric mat may be machine washable but doesn't make for a great feeding mat. If left on the floor while damp, damage could be done to the surface.<\/p>\n<p>We implied earlier that you'll be feeding your animals in the kitchen, but that may not be the room with the most appropriate flooring. Feed them wherever the floor is least likely to be damaged by any food and drink that leaves the bowl without making it into their belly. A tiled utility room for example.<\/p>\n<p>Also bear in mind that any nearby walls might get caught in the crossfire... Water and food stains on painted walls can be difficult to remove and may cause lasting damage to painted surfaces (more on that next). Radiators can rust when frequently splashed with water.<\/p>\n<h2>8. Decorate using washable paint<\/h2>\n<p>It's not just mealtime misdemeanours that can ruin your wallpaper and painted walls.<\/p>\n<p>Mud and rainwater brought inside and shaken off after a walk can do harm to wall surfaces, as can slobber. None of our pets have been super slobbery but their saliva has still ended up finding its way onto walls, mirrors, windows\u2026 you name it. Wet noses also transfer nasal discharge (yep) onto clothes, windows and walls.<\/p>\n<p>If you're keen to cover walls with paper make sure it's a wipeable paper, which will likely be coated with vinyl and suited to scrubbing clean.<\/p>\n<p>If you prefer paint, there are a number of brands that manufacture washable paints that can be cleaned with a sponge and mild detergent. Some of the more durable paints can even be scrubbed quite vigorously without the surface being affected. These are ideal for kids armed with crayons as well as the family dog spraying mud around the place.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cleaning-painted-wall.jpg\" alt=\"Using magic eraser to remove crayon from wall\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>A good quality, standard vinyl paint may handle occasional cleaning with a non-abrasive cloth, but some paint will likely be transferred to the cloth and the surface finish may be damaged if you're not careful.<\/p>\n<h2>9. Use an absorbent 'dirt trapper' or barrier doormat<\/h2>\n<p>Even after a thorough hosing down, Paso still manages to bring a bit of outside indoors. And like many dogs, he has a tendency to wait until he's inside before shaking himself off.<\/p>\n<p>A super absorbent 'dirt trapper' mat will capture muck from boots and dog paws alike before it gets tracked further into your home, and most are machine washable once you've given them a vigorous shake outside to remove any gritty material. Barrier mats also dry quickly on the line or in the drier but we have two in rotation that we switch out when one's in the laundry.<\/p>\n<p>If you have a wooden floor that could get damaged by a damp mat, we recommend you use a design that has an impermeable plastic backing material, or you could place your absorbent mat on top of a non-slip plastic mat.<\/p>\n<h2>10. Make good use of throws and slipcovers<\/h2>\n<p>As greyhound owners we fully expected to be sharing the sofa with the dog, but we soon discovered that Paso's fixation with staying warm meant that he wasn't interested in laying on our leather upholstered Chesterfield, as it's cool to the touch even in summer.<\/p>\n<p>That said, if our furniture was more to his liking, we're confident we'd have the same problem keeping him off it as we do keeping him off our bed!<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/messy-dog-couch-sofa.jpg\" alt=\"Dog watching TV and making a mess on sofa\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>To prevent dirt or oily residue making its way onto your furniture, throws can be an inexpensive way to avoid costly disasters. It does seem a shame to buy furniture because you like the design or the upholstery and then hide it from view under a large throw, but if you can encourage your dog to lay only on the throw you may get away with covering just part of your sofa. Avoid throws that are loosely knit as claws will get caught and more dirt and grit will make its way through compared to a material that's tightly woven.<\/p>\n<p>Slipcovers are also ideal for pet owners as they can be machine washed, dyed if necessary and even replaced fairly easily. If you're spot cleaning a slipcover we recommend removing it first to avoid moisture or the stain itself from penetrating further.<\/p>\n<p>If you're struggling to keep your pets off the bed and are worried about muck and fur soiling your clean bedding, a heavy duty bedspread or bed throw should do the job.<\/p>\n<p>Shake throws off outside before placing them in the laundry, as this will reduce the amount of fur and grit that makes its way into your washing machine.<\/p>\n<p>If you're concerned about washing pet throws and mats in the same washing machine as your clothes, you can use washing machine cleaner in between loads or antibacterial additives when washing pet-related stuff. These products kill up to 99.9% of bacteria and some even include descaler to remove limescale that may compromise the performance of your washing machine.<\/p>\n<h2>11. Buy a secure bin and lock down your food<\/h2>\n<p>If you have a food-motivated pet we recommend investing in a kitchen bin that's inaccessible to your dog or cat. Something like a pedal bin should do the job, and the heavier the better as a food-driven breed that's a bit more switched-on than our greyhound would have no trouble knocking over a lightweight bin to get at what's inside.<\/p>\n<p>The main concern here is the health and wellbeing of your pet - chicken bones and chocolate can be fatal - but secondary to that is avoiding the re-decoration of your kitchen with last night's leftovers.<\/p>\n<p>Some pets don't know when to give up, however, and the most persistent may just have to be kept out of the kitchen. \ud83d\ude3f<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cat-stealing-food.jpg\" alt=\"Cat eying up fish placed on dining table\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>It's also important to make sure that any food - including pet food - isn't left in accessible locations. Some breeds of dog in particular will literally gorge themselves to death given the opportunity, so food must be kept out of reach at all times. Even close supervision might not be enough - I recently took my eye off Paso for a few seconds to catch him trotting back to his bed with a freshly baked lemon butterfly cake.<\/p>\n<h2>12. Keep your car clean with a waterproof boot liner or seat covers<\/h2>\n<p>We're diverging from the clean home theme here but I'll take any opportunity to rave about our boot liner, which has saved our car upholstery over and over again.<\/p>\n<p>Despite Paso being an ex-racer who travelled throughout the North East and beyond to compete, he's prone to travel sickness and usually does the deed a couple minutes before we arrive at our destination. This was a big deal when it filled the boot with sick, but the clean-up is so much easier now that we have a waterproof, machine washable boot liner that covers the entire boot space. These are available in various different sizes depending on boot size and whether you're travelling with flattened rear seats, and offer protection from muck, pee, drool and vomit. Waterproof seat covers and hammock-like designs that can be placed between the front and rear seats are also available.<\/p>\n<p>If the accident happens on the outward trip, we carry a large bottle of water that allows us to quickly remove the mess, and then we'll either hose down or launder the liner once we've returned home.<\/p>\n<p>So now you're hopefully armed with a few new tips to go with the ones that are already working for you, which we'd love to hear about in the comments! \ud83d\udcac<\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-07-30 11:21:00","updated":"2024-09-11 17:32:15","author":"1","category":"7","status":"published","comments":"1"}},{"data":{"id":"3","title":"What You Need to Know About Leaving Your Dog Home Alone","slug":"what-you-need-to-know-about-leaving-your-dog-home-alone","description":"","markdown":"When we brought our retired racing greyhound Paso home we were confident that he wouldn't be left on his own too often, as we're both able to work from home and my office was only ten minutes away. \ud83d\udc4c\n\nHowever, it was inevitable that there would be occasions he'd have to spend time by himself, so we were keen to get him used to being home alone.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/home-alone.jpg\" alt=\"Home Alone\">\n<\/figure>\n\nDogs are sociable animals and enjoy our company just as much as we do theirs, so leaving your precious pooch to their own devices for the first time can be a pretty daunting experience.\n\nI remember the first time Paso was left at home I spent the whole time worrying about whether he was okay and what we were going to come home to. In our case it was a number of our belongings having been 'collected' and placed on his bed, including fake coals from the gas fire \ud83d\udd25, tubes of moisturiser, several pairs of socks \ud83e\udde6 and a magnum of Prosecco. He's a dog with eclectic taste!\n\nIt was a steep learning curve for all of us but we soon learned what should be kept out of his reach, and he learned that there was no need to be stressed as we'd never be away for too long.\n\nIn 2024 many companies are implementing return-to-office (RTO) policies, with some of us returning to work in the office a couple days a week at least. This can be a stressful experience (for all involved!) but by following a few simple tips you can help your dog feel confident when left alone for short periods. \n\nEventually you'll be able to return home to a relaxed dog and an undamaged property! \ud83d\ude2e\u200d\ud83d\udca8\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/mfmmPG9upm4\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<h2>How long is too long? \ud83d\udd57<\/h2>\n\nThe length of time you can leave your dog alone will depend on a number of factors, including your dog's age, health and temperament. \n\n<h3>Adult dogs<\/h3>\n\nThe RSPCA recommends that you don't leave your adult dog alone regularly for more than four hours.\n\nThere may occasionally be times that you need to leave them longer than this, but more than six hours will probably be too much for most dogs.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-alone-window.jpg\" alt=\"Dog at window waiting for owners to return\">\n<\/figure>\n\nAll dogs are different - some will be happy to be left alone for longer, some will only be able to cope with much shorter times. Bear in mind how long your dog can hold their bladder for, as you may find that this gets shorter as your dog gets older and therefore an older dog will feel stressed if they can't get outside to relieve themselves.\n\n<h3>Puppies<\/h3>\n\nPuppies are unlikely to have ever been left alone before they came to live with you. They will have been with their mother and littermates so will be used to company, and it's also important to bear in mind that a puppy can only hold their bladder for a short period of time.\n\nGenerally speaking a puppy under six months should never be left for more than two hours a day and not on a regular basis.\n\nRemember - a young puppy is a baby and will already be stressed by the huge changes in their young lives. Puppies need socialisation and company, so leaving them for extended periods could lead to greater problems in the future, such as your dog becoming insecure and antisocial as they develop into adulthood.\n\nA stressed puppy is also likely to cry, chew and may have accidents around the house.\n\n<h2>Start slow and build it up<\/h2>\n\nIt's important to teach your puppy how to be alone from an early age. Getting your pooch used to their own company when young is a great start on the road as they develop into a secure, confident adult dog.\n\nIt's best to start slowly, gradually increasing the time they're alone to give them the opportunity to adjust and avoid behaviours related to separation anxiety.\n\nAnd starting slowly need not just apply to puppies. As we start to come out of lockdown many of us will find that we are leaving our adult dogs for longer than we have done in months. Your pooch will have gotten used to having you around more often but as we start to return to offices, pubs, restaurants and cinemas you may find that it will take some time for your furry friend to adjust to the \u2018new normal'.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/separation-anxiety-infographic.jpg\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/separation-anxiety-infographic.jpg\" alt=\"Infographic about separation anxiety\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Source: I Love Veterinary<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Leave the room<\/h3>\n\nStart by simply leaving the room that your puppy is in. Try leaving them with a distraction such as a tasty treat or favourite toy and walk out of the room for a minute, then repeat this several times, gradually increasing the time you're away. \n\nNext, try again but without the distraction. As before, repeat this several times so your pooch gets used to the fact that no matter how often you leave, you always come back.\n\nIf your puppy is getting upset when you leave, ignore them, but don't increase the time away until you feel they're getting used to the idea.\n\n<h3>Leave the house <\/h3>\n\nOnce your dog is happy with you leaving the room, it's time to try leaving the house. \ud83d\udeaa\n\nStart by just walking out and closing the door behind you, waiting a couple of minutes and then returning. Keep doing this, building up the time as you go.\n\nWhen you're feeling confident, go for a short walk or pop to the shops, but try not to increase the time away too quickly and remember that with young pups you should never exceed two hours. Also be mindful that loud noises can be scary for your dog, so don't try leaving them alone during thunderstorms or fireworks. If your dog gets frightened this could represent a huge step back in their progress as they learn to be left home alone.\n\n<h3>When you get back<\/h3>\n\nWith both adult dogs and puppies it's important not to fuss too much when you leave and return. It's tempting to grab your dog for a big squeeze when you get in - after all you've probably missed them too! However, it's good for your dog to learn that your leaving and returning really isn't a big deal, it's just part of life.\n\nThat's not to say you have to ignore them completely, just don't overdo it!\n\nIt will take time and patience but you should find that in time your pooch will feel more confident and relaxed, and learn that being alone isn't something they need to worry about.\n\n<h2>How to stop your dog feeling lonely<\/h2>\n\nDogs like company so it's possible that yours might feel a little lonely when left on its own.\n\nLeaving the television or radio on can be comforting for a lonesome dog, as the sound of human voices may help them relax. Be careful what you leave on though - a programme featuring noisy cats or dogs for example may be a distraction too far! \ud83d\ude39\n\n<h3>Let sleeping dogs lie<\/h3>\n\nMany dogs, like our lazy greyhound, will simply sleep as long as they're alone. \ud83d\udca4\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dachshund-sleeping.jpg\" alt=\"Dachshund sleeping with eye mask and alarm clock\">\n<\/figure>\n\nWe always make sure Paso has a long walk before we head out as this tires him and also ensures that he's done all of his business! Greyhounds tend to sleep for 18 to 20 hours a day and although most dogs aren't quite that lazy, an average dog will sleep for 12 to 14 hours a day, so if you're out of the house for four hours there's a good chance your pooch will be asleep for most of it.\n\nYour pet may appreciate having something of yours to cuddle up to when you're not there. A jumper or cardigan that smells of you can give your pooch some comfort if they're missing you.\n\n<h3>Keep them entertained<\/h3>\n\nYou may want to leave your dog with something to entertain them, such as a stuffed kong. \n\nThe distraction of a treat or toy will give your dog something to think about other than where his family is.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-toy-chew.jpg\" alt=\"Puppy entertaining itself with a toy\">\n<\/figure>\n\nProviding your dog with these distractions should hopefully dissuade him from making his own. Paso tried to chew the cork off a magnum of Prosecco the first time we left him - a mistake we soon learned from!\n\nBe careful what you leave your dog with. Toys that might tear or treats such as rawhide that could cause choking will require you to supervise, and should be kept out of reach when you're not in the house.\n\n<h3>Play Big Brother<\/h3>\n\nIf you're worried about what your dog is getting up to when you're out you could invest in a pet camera so that you can watch them from afar. Some even allow you to dispense treats and interact with your dog, which is ideal if you think your dog is missing the sound of its master's voice.\n\nBeing able to keep an eye on your dog may reassure you that your home and pet are both safe. This will also allow you to see if your pup is feeling anxious or stressed, which will help you figure out what to focus on when training them to be home alone.\n\n<h3>Give them a playmate<\/h3>\n\nFor some dogs, having another dog around for company may ease their loneliness. \n\nHowever, this isn't always the case. Many dogs will bond with their humans and only tolerate another canine companion. Others may not get on with another dog at all, and in a worse case scenario they may even wind each other up to misbehave when you're not around! \n\nIntroducing another dog requires some real consideration and careful handling, and if you feel you're already leaving your current dog for too long, is it fair to leave two?\n\n<h2>Outsourcing<\/h2>\n\nThere may be times where you simply have to leave your dog for longer than you'd really like to. In these cases it may be worth your while considering outsourcing some of your dog care responsibilities.\n\nYou may have a friendly neighbour who'd enjoy spending time with your dog whilst you're out at work, or a family member who would appreciate the opportunity to exercise with your pup.\n\nHowever, it can be tricky to rely on the kindness of others. What if they're busy one day, want to plan a holiday or they fall ill?\n\nSometimes it's necessary to get the professionals in. \n\n<h3>Dog walkers and doggy daycare<\/h3>\n\nThere are many dog walkers around and having someone collect your pup for an hour's walk will provide them with company and exercise, two of their favourite things!\n\nIf you plan to be out longer than a couple of hours then doggy daycare can be a great option, with many providers able to offer full or half day care, collecting and returning your dog from home.\n\nWe went with this option for Paso when I had to go into the office for meetings. He would be collected from home in the morning, taken out with his doggy friends, have a bit of chillout time and then another walk in the afternoon before returning home, where the dog walker would provide him with his lunch. On his daycare days he was so exhausted after a day of running around and playing with other dogs that he'd barely lift his head when we came home - and they do say that a tired dog is a happy dog. \ud83d\udc36\n\n<h3>Choosing the right walker for you (and your pooch)<\/h3>\n\nChoosing a dog walker or daycare provider can be a tough decision. Your dog is precious to you and it's difficult to consider trusting a stranger with such a big part of your life.\n\nIrrespective of where you live there are likely countless dog walkers to choose from, so it's important to think about what's important to you and talk it through with the walkers. Will the dogs be left in a van for long periods? Can my dog be walked on a lead at all times? How many dogs do you walk at a time?\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-walker.jpg\" alt=\"Dog walker with four dogs on lead\">\n<\/figure>\n\nThese were all things that mattered to us so we made sure to discuss them before choosing a walker. If you can get recommendations from friends or family even better, and try to check online reviews.\n\nHowever, the best review of our dog walker is Paso's reaction when he arrives to pick him up, as he gets a better reception than we do! \u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\n\n<h2>Keeping your dog (and your home) safe<\/h2>\n\nPuppy-proofing the area your dog will be left in is important for the safety of your pooch.\n\nWhether you decide to give your dog free rein of the house, restrict them to a couple rooms or crate them will depend on the dog and what you're comfortable with, but whatever you choose it's important that there's nothing within easy reach that could harm your pup.\n\nWe quickly learned from our first time leaving Paso alone that we needed to put some safeguards in place to protect both him and our possessions, so we now have a fireguard to protect the coals in our gas fire and, more importantly, Prosecco bottles are kept well out of his reach! \ud83c\udf7e\n\n<h3>Dumpster diving<\/h3>\n\nEnsure that your bins are dog proof, as I'm sure you'd rather not come home to yesterday's leftovers tipped all over your kitchen floor. Even more importantly, you don't want your dog feasting on anything that may be harmful to him, such as cooked chicken bones, chocolate or raisins. \ud83e\udd2e\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-kitchen-rubbish-bin.jpg\" alt=\"Dachshund stealing food from kitchen bin\">\n<\/figure>\n\nIf your dog is particularly food obsessed it may be best to keep him out of the kitchen altogether, as some dogs will go to great lengths to get at what they want!\n\n<h3>Crating<\/h3>\n\nCrating is popular with many dog owners but not something that should be done without proper crate training. There are dogs that take great comfort from their crate, while others feel too confined and like to be able to roam.\n\nIf you do crate your dog make sure that the area you leave the crate in is at a comfortable temperature, as your dog won't have the opportunity to self regulate. Never leave a crate in a conservatory for example, as your pup could overheat.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-crate-crating.jpg\" alt=\"Dog sleeping in crate\">\n<\/figure>\n\nIf you're not keen on crating but don't want to give your dog free rein, then a dog pen could be a good solution as this will give your pooch more space to walk and play whilst also controlling their environment.\n\nAlways make sure your dog has access to fresh water. Whilst you may worry about him drinking too much and needing to pee, a puddle on your carpet is preferable to you being responsible for your dog becoming dehydrated and unwell.\n\n<h3>Outdoors<\/h3>\n\nIt may be tempting to leave your dog outside, giving them access to toilet and get some exercise.\n\nThere are however a lot of pitfalls with leaving your dog outdoors which need to be considered. Dog thefts - though still thankfully rare - appear to be on the rise, so you need to ensure that your pup is totally secure in the garden as an unsupervised dog in an outdoor space will seem like easy pickings to a thief.\n\nRemember that if you do decide to leave your dog outdoors, they will also need access to both shade and shelter to protect them from the elements. \ud83c\udf21\ufe0f\u2614\n\nNo matter how much we love our furry friends, it's inevitable that they will need to be left alone from time to time so it's important that we make sure they are as comfortable with this as possible. \n\nIf you think you've tried everything and still find that your dog is really suffering when you can't be there, then it may be time to call in a dog behaviourist. Your vet may be able to recommend one or you can check with <a href=\"https:\/\/abtc.org.uk\/practitioners\/\">ABTC (Animal Behaviour and Training Council)<\/a> for a registered behaviourist near you.","html":"<p>When we brought our retired racing greyhound Paso home we were confident that he wouldn't be left on his own too often, as we're both able to work from home and my office was only ten minutes away. \ud83d\udc4c<\/p>\n<p>However, it was inevitable that there would be occasions he'd have to spend time by himself, so we were keen to get him used to being home alone.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/home-alone.jpg\" alt=\"Home Alone\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Dogs are sociable animals and enjoy our company just as much as we do theirs, so leaving your precious pooch to their own devices for the first time can be a pretty daunting experience.<\/p>\n<p>I remember the first time Paso was left at home I spent the whole time worrying about whether he was okay and what we were going to come home to. In our case it was a number of our belongings having been 'collected' and placed on his bed, including fake coals from the gas fire \ud83d\udd25, tubes of moisturiser, several pairs of socks \ud83e\udde6 and a magnum of Prosecco. He's a dog with eclectic taste!<\/p>\n<p>It was a steep learning curve for all of us but we soon learned what should be kept out of his reach, and he learned that there was no need to be stressed as we'd never be away for too long.<\/p>\n<p>In 2024 many companies are implementing return-to-office (RTO) policies, with some of us returning to work in the office a couple days a week at least. This can be a stressful experience (for all involved!) but by following a few simple tips you can help your dog feel confident when left alone for short periods. <\/p>\n<p>Eventually you'll be able to return home to a relaxed dog and an undamaged property! \ud83d\ude2e\u200d\ud83d\udca8<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/mfmmPG9upm4\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>How long is too long? \ud83d\udd57<\/h2>\n<p>The length of time you can leave your dog alone will depend on a number of factors, including your dog's age, health and temperament. <\/p>\n<h3>Adult dogs<\/h3>\n<p>The RSPCA recommends that you don't leave your adult dog alone regularly for more than four hours.<\/p>\n<p>There may occasionally be times that you need to leave them longer than this, but more than six hours will probably be too much for most dogs.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-alone-window.jpg\" alt=\"Dog at window waiting for owners to return\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>All dogs are different - some will be happy to be left alone for longer, some will only be able to cope with much shorter times. Bear in mind how long your dog can hold their bladder for, as you may find that this gets shorter as your dog gets older and therefore an older dog will feel stressed if they can't get outside to relieve themselves.<\/p>\n<h3>Puppies<\/h3>\n<p>Puppies are unlikely to have ever been left alone before they came to live with you. They will have been with their mother and littermates so will be used to company, and it's also important to bear in mind that a puppy can only hold their bladder for a short period of time.<\/p>\n<p>Generally speaking a puppy under six months should never be left for more than two hours a day and not on a regular basis.<\/p>\n<p>Remember - a young puppy is a baby and will already be stressed by the huge changes in their young lives. Puppies need socialisation and company, so leaving them for extended periods could lead to greater problems in the future, such as your dog becoming insecure and antisocial as they develop into adulthood.<\/p>\n<p>A stressed puppy is also likely to cry, chew and may have accidents around the house.<\/p>\n<h2>Start slow and build it up<\/h2>\n<p>It's important to teach your puppy how to be alone from an early age. Getting your pooch used to their own company when young is a great start on the road as they develop into a secure, confident adult dog.<\/p>\n<p>It's best to start slowly, gradually increasing the time they're alone to give them the opportunity to adjust and avoid behaviours related to separation anxiety.<\/p>\n<p>And starting slowly need not just apply to puppies. As we start to come out of lockdown many of us will find that we are leaving our adult dogs for longer than we have done in months. Your pooch will have gotten used to having you around more often but as we start to return to offices, pubs, restaurants and cinemas you may find that it will take some time for your furry friend to adjust to the \u2018new normal'.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/separation-anxiety-infographic.jpg\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/separation-anxiety-infographic.jpg\" alt=\"Infographic about separation anxiety\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Source: I Love Veterinary<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Leave the room<\/h3>\n<p>Start by simply leaving the room that your puppy is in. Try leaving them with a distraction such as a tasty treat or favourite toy and walk out of the room for a minute, then repeat this several times, gradually increasing the time you're away. <\/p>\n<p>Next, try again but without the distraction. As before, repeat this several times so your pooch gets used to the fact that no matter how often you leave, you always come back.<\/p>\n<p>If your puppy is getting upset when you leave, ignore them, but don't increase the time away until you feel they're getting used to the idea.<\/p>\n<h3>Leave the house <\/h3>\n<p>Once your dog is happy with you leaving the room, it's time to try leaving the house. \ud83d\udeaa<\/p>\n<p>Start by just walking out and closing the door behind you, waiting a couple of minutes and then returning. Keep doing this, building up the time as you go.<\/p>\n<p>When you're feeling confident, go for a short walk or pop to the shops, but try not to increase the time away too quickly and remember that with young pups you should never exceed two hours. Also be mindful that loud noises can be scary for your dog, so don't try leaving them alone during thunderstorms or fireworks. If your dog gets frightened this could represent a huge step back in their progress as they learn to be left home alone.<\/p>\n<h3>When you get back<\/h3>\n<p>With both adult dogs and puppies it's important not to fuss too much when you leave and return. It's tempting to grab your dog for a big squeeze when you get in - after all you've probably missed them too! However, it's good for your dog to learn that your leaving and returning really isn't a big deal, it's just part of life.<\/p>\n<p>That's not to say you have to ignore them completely, just don't overdo it!<\/p>\n<p>It will take time and patience but you should find that in time your pooch will feel more confident and relaxed, and learn that being alone isn't something they need to worry about.<\/p>\n<h2>How to stop your dog feeling lonely<\/h2>\n<p>Dogs like company so it's possible that yours might feel a little lonely when left on its own.<\/p>\n<p>Leaving the television or radio on can be comforting for a lonesome dog, as the sound of human voices may help them relax. Be careful what you leave on though - a programme featuring noisy cats or dogs for example may be a distraction too far! \ud83d\ude39<\/p>\n<h3>Let sleeping dogs lie<\/h3>\n<p>Many dogs, like our lazy greyhound, will simply sleep as long as they're alone. \ud83d\udca4<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dachshund-sleeping.jpg\" alt=\"Dachshund sleeping with eye mask and alarm clock\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>We always make sure Paso has a long walk before we head out as this tires him and also ensures that he's done all of his business! Greyhounds tend to sleep for 18 to 20 hours a day and although most dogs aren't quite that lazy, an average dog will sleep for 12 to 14 hours a day, so if you're out of the house for four hours there's a good chance your pooch will be asleep for most of it.<\/p>\n<p>Your pet may appreciate having something of yours to cuddle up to when you're not there. A jumper or cardigan that smells of you can give your pooch some comfort if they're missing you.<\/p>\n<h3>Keep them entertained<\/h3>\n<p>You may want to leave your dog with something to entertain them, such as a stuffed kong. <\/p>\n<p>The distraction of a treat or toy will give your dog something to think about other than where his family is.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppy-toy-chew.jpg\" alt=\"Puppy entertaining itself with a toy\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Providing your dog with these distractions should hopefully dissuade him from making his own. Paso tried to chew the cork off a magnum of Prosecco the first time we left him - a mistake we soon learned from!<\/p>\n<p>Be careful what you leave your dog with. Toys that might tear or treats such as rawhide that could cause choking will require you to supervise, and should be kept out of reach when you're not in the house.<\/p>\n<h3>Play Big Brother<\/h3>\n<p>If you're worried about what your dog is getting up to when you're out you could invest in a pet camera so that you can watch them from afar. Some even allow you to dispense treats and interact with your dog, which is ideal if you think your dog is missing the sound of its master's voice.<\/p>\n<p>Being able to keep an eye on your dog may reassure you that your home and pet are both safe. This will also allow you to see if your pup is feeling anxious or stressed, which will help you figure out what to focus on when training them to be home alone.<\/p>\n<h3>Give them a playmate<\/h3>\n<p>For some dogs, having another dog around for company may ease their loneliness. <\/p>\n<p>However, this isn't always the case. Many dogs will bond with their humans and only tolerate another canine companion. Others may not get on with another dog at all, and in a worse case scenario they may even wind each other up to misbehave when you're not around! <\/p>\n<p>Introducing another dog requires some real consideration and careful handling, and if you feel you're already leaving your current dog for too long, is it fair to leave two?<\/p>\n<h2>Outsourcing<\/h2>\n<p>There may be times where you simply have to leave your dog for longer than you'd really like to. In these cases it may be worth your while considering outsourcing some of your dog care responsibilities.<\/p>\n<p>You may have a friendly neighbour who'd enjoy spending time with your dog whilst you're out at work, or a family member who would appreciate the opportunity to exercise with your pup.<\/p>\n<p>However, it can be tricky to rely on the kindness of others. What if they're busy one day, want to plan a holiday or they fall ill?<\/p>\n<p>Sometimes it's necessary to get the professionals in. <\/p>\n<h3>Dog walkers and doggy daycare<\/h3>\n<p>There are many dog walkers around and having someone collect your pup for an hour's walk will provide them with company and exercise, two of their favourite things!<\/p>\n<p>If you plan to be out longer than a couple of hours then doggy daycare can be a great option, with many providers able to offer full or half day care, collecting and returning your dog from home.<\/p>\n<p>We went with this option for Paso when I had to go into the office for meetings. He would be collected from home in the morning, taken out with his doggy friends, have a bit of chillout time and then another walk in the afternoon before returning home, where the dog walker would provide him with his lunch. On his daycare days he was so exhausted after a day of running around and playing with other dogs that he'd barely lift his head when we came home - and they do say that a tired dog is a happy dog. \ud83d\udc36<\/p>\n<h3>Choosing the right walker for you (and your pooch)<\/h3>\n<p>Choosing a dog walker or daycare provider can be a tough decision. Your dog is precious to you and it's difficult to consider trusting a stranger with such a big part of your life.<\/p>\n<p>Irrespective of where you live there are likely countless dog walkers to choose from, so it's important to think about what's important to you and talk it through with the walkers. Will the dogs be left in a van for long periods? Can my dog be walked on a lead at all times? How many dogs do you walk at a time?<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-walker.jpg\" alt=\"Dog walker with four dogs on lead\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>These were all things that mattered to us so we made sure to discuss them before choosing a walker. If you can get recommendations from friends or family even better, and try to check online reviews.<\/p>\n<p>However, the best review of our dog walker is Paso's reaction when he arrives to pick him up, as he gets a better reception than we do! \u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50\u2b50<\/p>\n<h2>Keeping your dog (and your home) safe<\/h2>\n<p>Puppy-proofing the area your dog will be left in is important for the safety of your pooch.<\/p>\n<p>Whether you decide to give your dog free rein of the house, restrict them to a couple rooms or crate them will depend on the dog and what you're comfortable with, but whatever you choose it's important that there's nothing within easy reach that could harm your pup.<\/p>\n<p>We quickly learned from our first time leaving Paso alone that we needed to put some safeguards in place to protect both him and our possessions, so we now have a fireguard to protect the coals in our gas fire and, more importantly, Prosecco bottles are kept well out of his reach! \ud83c\udf7e<\/p>\n<h3>Dumpster diving<\/h3>\n<p>Ensure that your bins are dog proof, as I'm sure you'd rather not come home to yesterday's leftovers tipped all over your kitchen floor. Even more importantly, you don't want your dog feasting on anything that may be harmful to him, such as cooked chicken bones, chocolate or raisins. \ud83e\udd2e<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-kitchen-rubbish-bin.jpg\" alt=\"Dachshund stealing food from kitchen bin\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>If your dog is particularly food obsessed it may be best to keep him out of the kitchen altogether, as some dogs will go to great lengths to get at what they want!<\/p>\n<h3>Crating<\/h3>\n<p>Crating is popular with many dog owners but not something that should be done without proper crate training. There are dogs that take great comfort from their crate, while others feel too confined and like to be able to roam.<\/p>\n<p>If you do crate your dog make sure that the area you leave the crate in is at a comfortable temperature, as your dog won't have the opportunity to self regulate. Never leave a crate in a conservatory for example, as your pup could overheat.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-crate-crating.jpg\" alt=\"Dog sleeping in crate\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>If you're not keen on crating but don't want to give your dog free rein, then a dog pen could be a good solution as this will give your pooch more space to walk and play whilst also controlling their environment.<\/p>\n<p>Always make sure your dog has access to fresh water. Whilst you may worry about him drinking too much and needing to pee, a puddle on your carpet is preferable to you being responsible for your dog becoming dehydrated and unwell.<\/p>\n<h3>Outdoors<\/h3>\n<p>It may be tempting to leave your dog outside, giving them access to toilet and get some exercise.<\/p>\n<p>There are however a lot of pitfalls with leaving your dog outdoors which need to be considered. Dog thefts - though still thankfully rare - appear to be on the rise, so you need to ensure that your pup is totally secure in the garden as an unsupervised dog in an outdoor space will seem like easy pickings to a thief.<\/p>\n<p>Remember that if you do decide to leave your dog outdoors, they will also need access to both shade and shelter to protect them from the elements. \ud83c\udf21\ufe0f\u2614<\/p>\n<p>No matter how much we love our furry friends, it's inevitable that they will need to be left alone from time to time so it's important that we make sure they are as comfortable with this as possible. <\/p>\n<p>If you think you've tried everything and still find that your dog is really suffering when you can't be there, then it may be time to call in a dog behaviourist. Your vet may be able to recommend one or you can check with <a href=\"https:\/\/abtc.org.uk\/practitioners\/\">ABTC (Animal Behaviour and Training Council)<\/a> for a registered behaviourist near you.<\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-06-15 12:24:41","updated":"2024-09-03 15:41:05","author":"2","category":"5","status":"published","comments":"1"}},{"data":{"id":"4","title":"Why Puppy Farms Are Bad - and How to Avoid Them","slug":"why-puppy-farms-are-bad-and-how-to-avoid-them","description":"","markdown":"<i class=\"fas fa-exclamation-triangle\" style=\"color:tomato;\"><\/i> <strong>Warning: you may find some of the images and the video accompanying this post upsetting.<\/strong>\n\nAccording to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pdsa.org.uk\/what-we-do\/pdsa-animal-wellbeing-report\/paw-report-2024\">PDSA Animal Wellbeing Report 2024<\/a>, the number of UK adults who own dogs fell for the first time in four years this year, to 28% from a high of 29% the previous year.\n\nThe PDSA states that this slight decrease in dog ownership is statistically insignificant, and the figure still represents a staggering 10.6m pet dogs in the UK!\n\nWith demand remaining steady, prices are set to remain high as well. Several popular breeds such as bulldogs, maltipoo crosses and miniature bull terriers can cost up to \u00a35000, with waiting lists for the most popular breeds common.\n\n<h2>The downsides of increased pet ownership<\/h2>\n\nSadly there are a few downsides to the increase in pet ownership (and prices) that we've seen since 2020, not least that pet theft continues to increase in some regions, with the Pet Abduction Act 2024 being introduced to tackle this.\n\nLegislation is due to come into force in August 2024 that will make pet abduction a specific criminal offence in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, with convictions resulting in a fine and\/or up to five years in prison.\n\nAnother issue that's become more prevalent the past few years is the impact that the increase in the number of pets has had on wildlife and livestock.\n\nGiven that domestic cats can kill <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencefocus.com\/news\/pet-cats-have-up-to-10-times-larger-impact-on-wildlife-than-wild-predators\/\" target=\"_blank\">two to 10 times more wildlife than similar-sized wild predators<\/a>, and tend to do so within just a 100m radius surrounding their home, it stands to reason that fauna in suburban areas will be under pressure as a result of the increase in cat ownership.\n\nThere's also been a notable increase in reports of attacks by dogs on livestock, and a corresponding increase in the number of dogs shot by farmers.\n\nBut perhaps the most worrying downside is the huge increase in the number of dogs being sold by puppy farms, with a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.thekennelclub.org.uk\/media-centre\/2023\/october\/one-in-four-fooled-into-buying-unhealthy-pups-by-cute-pictures-on-social-media\/\" target=\"_blank\">recent study<\/a> suggesting that a third of pups purchased in the UK are suspected to have originated from a puppy 'farm', 'factory' or 'mill', and that damaging \"virtual puppy buying\" and other \"pandemic bad habits\" have yet to be reversed.\n\nSocial media is playing a part in influencing puppy buying behaviour, and statistics published as part of the Kennel Club's October 2023 study show that \"one in four puppies (25%) found on social media get sick or die before their first birthday\".\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-rusty-cage.jpg\" alt=\"Puppies enclosed in rusty cage\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h2>Puppy farms are bad - here's why<\/h2>\n\nThe term \"puppy farm\" evokes images of rural idyll, but the idea that puppies and their mothers are running free in acres of green space is a misconception that couldn't be further from the truth.\n\nThere are countless reasons that puppy farms should be avoided at all costs, and here are just a few:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>Puppy 'farmers' are more interested in profit than animal welfare.\n\t<li>Dogs are bred in confined spaces with many never allowed to leave their cages.\n\t<li>Farmed puppies often exhibit behavioural issues due to the lack of socialisation.\n\t<li>Living conditions are often unhygienic and unhealthy, resulting in serious long-term health conditions.\n\t<li>Puppies may be bred from parents with poor hip scores or who haven't been scored at all.\n\t<li>Veterinary care is often inadequate or even non-existent.\n\t<li>Health checks and vaccinations for viruses such as Parvo may not be carried out, with documentation often forged.\n\t<li>Puppies are commonly removed from their mother and littermates too early, and therefore haven't had the chance to develop 'dog manners'.\n\t<li>Dogs may suffer life-long anxiety as a result of their formative experiences, resulting in further behavioural issues.\n\t<li>Puppies are transported long distances in unsanitary and unsafe conditions.\n\t<li>\u2026\n\t<li>We could go on.\n<\/ul>\n\nIt's extremely unlikely that a farmed puppy can be the well-adjusted, healthy dog that you and your family deserve.\n\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n\t<div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/D4YIFK64iIM\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nPuppy farming should be illegal. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gov.uk\/government\/news\/lucys-law-spells-the-beginning-of-the-end-for-puppy-farming\" target=\"_blank\">Lucy's Law<\/a> is a welcome step in the right direction, but despite the introduction of legislation in 2020 there are still many thousands of dealers trading unwell, badly adjusted and traumatised puppies sourced from puppy farms in the UK, Ireland and further afield.\n\n<h2>How to spot a puppy farm<\/h2>\n\nMany people who have had a difficult experience with a farmed puppy may have been completely unaware that their new pet was bred in such awful circumstances.\n\nSo now that it's clear that puppy farms are very bad indeed and the absolute worst way to buy a puppy, here are some of the warning signs you should be on the lookout for whilst trying to find a reputable dealer.\n\n<h3>You're not allowed to see the puppy's parents<\/h3>\n\nAny reputable breeder will allow you to see both parents and it's also important that you're able to see your new furry friend hanging out with its mother and littermates.\n\nThese formative few weeks of a dog's life are perhaps the most important of its life and contribute significantly to the health and behavioural adjustment of a puppy as it develops into an adult dog.\n\nFor that reason a puppy should in no circumstances be offered for delivery at less than eight weeks old. Twelve weeks is preferable.\n\n<strong>If you're not allowed to see a puppy's parents and littermates, or are offered a puppy that's too young to leave its mother, walk away.<\/strong>\n\n<h3>You're not allowed to visit the facilities<\/h3>\n\nIf you're not offered the opportunity to visit the breeders' facilities (or they refuse your request to visit), walk away. They're likely trying to hide unsanitary, cramped conditions and various other issues that would reveal to you the type of operation that they're running.\n\nNo reputable dealer would be reluctant to accommodate your request to visit their facilities.\n\n<h3>Unsanitary, unhealthy living conditions<\/h3>\n\nA puppy born in unhealthy living conditions will be an unhealthy dog. Not only has it been forced to endure these conditions whilst at its most vulnerable, but it's mother is also unlikely to be unhealthy.\n\nThis could result in chronic, long-term health conditions and huge vet bills.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-cage-sick.jpg\" alt=\"Sick puppies at a puppy farm\">\n\t<figcaption>Credit: HMRC<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>Breeder wants to meet you in a 'neutral' venue<\/h3>\n\nIf you're being asked to meet at an out-of-town retail park or somewhere similar, warning bells should be ringing. No reputable dealer would suggest this and you can be fairly sure that your new puppy is a farmed puppy.\n\nIf a puppy is for life, you need to give it the best start and therefore even travelling a fair distance to see your new pooch in the environment it was raised alongside its mother isn't too much to ask.\n\nIgnore the suggestion that they're meeting you halfway for your convenience - they're probably just trying to hide the fact that the puppy has either been imported or that their facilities would reveal the true nature of their operation to you.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-farm-factory-mill.jpg\" alt=\"Appalling conditions at puppy farm\">\n\t<figcaption>Credit: ISPCA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\nSome dealers rent properties specifically to trade farmed puppies, posing as reputable, small-scale breeders. Look for signs that the home might not be regularly lived in.\n\n<h3>Various breeds being offered<\/h3>\n\nMost licensed dealers will focus on a specific breed, or perhaps two at most. This allows them to develop specialised knowledge focused on their preferred breed, which should in turn allow them to breed healthier dogs. Reputable dealers tend to only have a single litter available at any one time, but larger operations may have more.\n\nPuppy farms will commonly offer a variety of the most popular or 'trending' breeds, as their priority is to generate profit at the expense of animal welfare. They will often have multiple litters available at any one time.\n\n<h3>Mother doesn't seem interested in her litter<\/h3>\n\nPuppy farmers sometimes switch out unhealthy mothers with a healthier looking dog to reassure you about the health of the litter.\n\nIf the 'mother' doesn't seem interested in or protective of her litter then it's possible she's not the real mother. If she's been nursing, her teats should be somewhat more visible than normal, so that's something to look for.\n\nIf mother and puppies seem anxious or scared by your presence this is also a warning sign, irrespective of whether the mother has been swapped out or not. Puppies are inquisitive and tend to be interested in new people. If they're reluctant to approach you or seem scared of you, it's time to question the environment they've been raised in. They may not have been socialised properly - with humans and even other dogs - or may have been mistreated by the breeder.\n\n<h3>The breeder has little knowledge of the breed<\/h3>\n\nEach breed of dog has particular characteristics and hereditary illnesses specific to the breed, so it's important that breeding dogs are screened for such issues to reduce the chance that they'll be passed down to their offspring.\n\nAsk the breeder if they've carried out such tests and even quiz them on their knowledge of breed-specific hereditary illnesses. Any reputable dealer should have a wealth of experience and a solid understanding of the characteristics of the breed they're selling.\n\nIf their responses appear to betray a lack of knowledge or care, walk away.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-tub-farm-factory-mill.jpg\" alt=\"Puppies living in poor conditions at puppy farm\">\n\t<figcaption>Credit: Scottish SPCA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<h3>The breeder doesn't want to answer questions or doesn't ask any<\/h3>\n\nIf a breeder is reluctant to answer your questions it may be that they don't have sufficient knowledge to answer, or perhaps they have something to hide.\n\nA reputable breeder will be accustomed to talking about the breed and about their approach to breeding animals.\n\nThey should also question you about your own circumstances, to ensure that the puppy is going to an appropriate home. A breeder not interested in where the puppy will spend the rest of its life clearly isn't interested in the wellbeing of the animals that they're selling.\n\nSome other warning signs:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>Breeder will only accept cash payment.\n\t<li>You feel rushed into making an agreement or exchange.\n\t<li>You're expected to pay a deposit for a puppy you haven't met.\n\t<li>Puppy has existing health issues but the breeder claims this is typical for the breed.\n\t<li>No documentation provided for vaccinations or health checks.\n\t<li>Puppy hasn't been microchipped (it's a legal requirement that dogs are microchipped at the point of sale).\n<\/ul>\n\n<h3>Alternatives<\/h3>\n\nThere are many reputable, licensed dealers operating throughout the UK who breed dogs responsibly, prioritising the wellbeing of their animals and who have genuine enthusiasm for improving their chosen breed. They often run small-scale operations, sometimes from home, where living conditions allow the puppies in their care to thrive and develop into healthy, well adjusted adult dogs. You should be able to visit their premises and feel reassured by what you find there.\n\nWhilst you may pay a little more than you'd like to, that's a price worth paying if the dog you're going to learn to love and cherish has been provided with the best possible start to its life.\n\nIf you have any doubt about the legitimacy of such an operation you should walk away and consider <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rspca.org.uk\/getinvolved\/campaign\/puppytrade\" target=\"_blank\">reporting your concerns<\/a>.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-cage-paws.jpg\" alt=\"Dog enclosed in small cage\">\n<\/figure>\n\nThe cultural shift that led to employers accommodating or even encouraging remote working during the Coronavirus pandemic still offers benefits to many pet owners, but there are notable examples of employers enforcing return-to-office (RTO) policies for at least a part of the working week, if not full-time.\n\nAs feared, RTO policies - alongside the cost of living crisis - have resulted in dog rehoming and rescue centres being busier than ever before. Significant increases in the cost of vet bills and pet food have played a part in this, with people not being able to afford to take care of their pets, and dog shelters struggling financially to meet the needs of the animals in their care.\n\nThe PDSA report we mentioned at the beginning of this article cites statistic from YouGov that show that in 2024 only 17% of dog owners acquired their dogs from rehoming centres, down from 22% in 2018.\n\nWhile rescue dogs can sometimes be more difficult due to their past experiences (not to mention the criteria for rehoming often being quite restrictive), owning a rescue can also be more rewarding than buying a puppy. But don't be tempted to turn to Gumtree or similar platforms as this could lead to many of the same pitfalls as buying from an unlicensed puppy dealer. A reputable rescue centre will carry out all the necessary health checks and vaccinations prior to rehoming a dog.\n\n<strong>Remember: you can't save a puppy from a puppy farm. If you knowingly support a puppy farm you will just make the problem worse and subject more dogs to years of trauma and poor health.<\/strong>\n","html":"<p><i class=\"fas fa-exclamation-triangle\" style=\"color:tomato;\"><\/i> <strong>Warning: you may find some of the images and the video accompanying this post upsetting.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>According to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pdsa.org.uk\/what-we-do\/pdsa-animal-wellbeing-report\/paw-report-2024\">PDSA Animal Wellbeing Report 2024<\/a>, the number of UK adults who own dogs fell for the first time in four years this year, to 28% from a high of 29% the previous year.<\/p>\n<p>The PDSA states that this slight decrease in dog ownership is statistically insignificant, and the figure still represents a staggering 10.6m pet dogs in the UK!<\/p>\n<p>With demand remaining steady, prices are set to remain high as well. Several popular breeds such as bulldogs, maltipoo crosses and miniature bull terriers can cost up to \u00a35000, with waiting lists for the most popular breeds common.<\/p>\n<h2>The downsides of increased pet ownership<\/h2>\n<p>Sadly there are a few downsides to the increase in pet ownership (and prices) that we've seen since 2020, not least that pet theft continues to increase in some regions, with the Pet Abduction Act 2024 being introduced to tackle this.<\/p>\n<p>Legislation is due to come into force in August 2024 that will make pet abduction a specific criminal offence in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, with convictions resulting in a fine and\/or up to five years in prison.<\/p>\n<p>Another issue that's become more prevalent the past few years is the impact that the increase in the number of pets has had on wildlife and livestock.<\/p>\n<p>Given that domestic cats can kill <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencefocus.com\/news\/pet-cats-have-up-to-10-times-larger-impact-on-wildlife-than-wild-predators\/\" target=\"_blank\">two to 10 times more wildlife than similar-sized wild predators<\/a>, and tend to do so within just a 100m radius surrounding their home, it stands to reason that fauna in suburban areas will be under pressure as a result of the increase in cat ownership.<\/p>\n<p>There's also been a notable increase in reports of attacks by dogs on livestock, and a corresponding increase in the number of dogs shot by farmers.<\/p>\n<p>But perhaps the most worrying downside is the huge increase in the number of dogs being sold by puppy farms, with a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.thekennelclub.org.uk\/media-centre\/2023\/october\/one-in-four-fooled-into-buying-unhealthy-pups-by-cute-pictures-on-social-media\/\" target=\"_blank\">recent study<\/a> suggesting that a third of pups purchased in the UK are suspected to have originated from a puppy 'farm', 'factory' or 'mill', and that damaging &quot;virtual puppy buying&quot; and other &quot;pandemic bad habits&quot; have yet to be reversed.<\/p>\n<p>Social media is playing a part in influencing puppy buying behaviour, and statistics published as part of the Kennel Club's October 2023 study show that &quot;one in four puppies (25%) found on social media get sick or die before their first birthday&quot;.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-rusty-cage.jpg\" alt=\"Puppies enclosed in rusty cage\">\n<\/figure>\n<h2>Puppy farms are bad - here's why<\/h2>\n<p>The term &quot;puppy farm&quot; evokes images of rural idyll, but the idea that puppies and their mothers are running free in acres of green space is a misconception that couldn't be further from the truth.<\/p>\n<p>There are countless reasons that puppy farms should be avoided at all costs, and here are just a few:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Puppy 'farmers' are more interested in profit than animal welfare.\n    <li>Dogs are bred in confined spaces with many never allowed to leave their cages.\n    <li>Farmed puppies often exhibit behavioural issues due to the lack of socialisation.\n    <li>Living conditions are often unhygienic and unhealthy, resulting in serious long-term health conditions.\n    <li>Puppies may be bred from parents with poor hip scores or who haven't been scored at all.\n    <li>Veterinary care is often inadequate or even non-existent.\n    <li>Health checks and vaccinations for viruses such as Parvo may not be carried out, with documentation often forged.\n    <li>Puppies are commonly removed from their mother and littermates too early, and therefore haven't had the chance to develop 'dog manners'.\n    <li>Dogs may suffer life-long anxiety as a result of their formative experiences, resulting in further behavioural issues.\n    <li>Puppies are transported long distances in unsanitary and unsafe conditions.\n    <li>\u2026\n    <li>We could go on.\n<\/ul>\n<p>It's extremely unlikely that a farmed puppy can be the well-adjusted, healthy dog that you and your family deserve.<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsively\">\n    <div class=\"embed-container\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/D4YIFK64iIM\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Puppy farming should be illegal. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gov.uk\/government\/news\/lucys-law-spells-the-beginning-of-the-end-for-puppy-farming\" target=\"_blank\">Lucy's Law<\/a> is a welcome step in the right direction, but despite the introduction of legislation in 2020 there are still many thousands of dealers trading unwell, badly adjusted and traumatised puppies sourced from puppy farms in the UK, Ireland and further afield.<\/p>\n<h2>How to spot a puppy farm<\/h2>\n<p>Many people who have had a difficult experience with a farmed puppy may have been completely unaware that their new pet was bred in such awful circumstances.<\/p>\n<p>So now that it's clear that puppy farms are very bad indeed and the absolute worst way to buy a puppy, here are some of the warning signs you should be on the lookout for whilst trying to find a reputable dealer.<\/p>\n<h3>You're not allowed to see the puppy's parents<\/h3>\n<p>Any reputable breeder will allow you to see both parents and it's also important that you're able to see your new furry friend hanging out with its mother and littermates.<\/p>\n<p>These formative few weeks of a dog's life are perhaps the most important of its life and contribute significantly to the health and behavioural adjustment of a puppy as it develops into an adult dog.<\/p>\n<p>For that reason a puppy should in no circumstances be offered for delivery at less than eight weeks old. Twelve weeks is preferable.<\/p>\n<p><strong>If you're not allowed to see a puppy's parents and littermates, or are offered a puppy that's too young to leave its mother, walk away.<\/strong><\/p>\n<h3>You're not allowed to visit the facilities<\/h3>\n<p>If you're not offered the opportunity to visit the breeders' facilities (or they refuse your request to visit), walk away. They're likely trying to hide unsanitary, cramped conditions and various other issues that would reveal to you the type of operation that they're running.<\/p>\n<p>No reputable dealer would be reluctant to accommodate your request to visit their facilities.<\/p>\n<h3>Unsanitary, unhealthy living conditions<\/h3>\n<p>A puppy born in unhealthy living conditions will be an unhealthy dog. Not only has it been forced to endure these conditions whilst at its most vulnerable, but it's mother is also unlikely to be unhealthy.<\/p>\n<p>This could result in chronic, long-term health conditions and huge vet bills.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-cage-sick.jpg\" alt=\"Sick puppies at a puppy farm\">\n    <figcaption>Credit: HMRC<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h3>Breeder wants to meet you in a 'neutral' venue<\/h3>\n<p>If you're being asked to meet at an out-of-town retail park or somewhere similar, warning bells should be ringing. No reputable dealer would suggest this and you can be fairly sure that your new puppy is a farmed puppy.<\/p>\n<p>If a puppy is for life, you need to give it the best start and therefore even travelling a fair distance to see your new pooch in the environment it was raised alongside its mother isn't too much to ask.<\/p>\n<p>Ignore the suggestion that they're meeting you halfway for your convenience - they're probably just trying to hide the fact that the puppy has either been imported or that their facilities would reveal the true nature of their operation to you.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-farm-factory-mill.jpg\" alt=\"Appalling conditions at puppy farm\">\n    <figcaption>Credit: ISPCA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<p>Some dealers rent properties specifically to trade farmed puppies, posing as reputable, small-scale breeders. Look for signs that the home might not be regularly lived in.<\/p>\n<h3>Various breeds being offered<\/h3>\n<p>Most licensed dealers will focus on a specific breed, or perhaps two at most. This allows them to develop specialised knowledge focused on their preferred breed, which should in turn allow them to breed healthier dogs. Reputable dealers tend to only have a single litter available at any one time, but larger operations may have more.<\/p>\n<p>Puppy farms will commonly offer a variety of the most popular or 'trending' breeds, as their priority is to generate profit at the expense of animal welfare. They will often have multiple litters available at any one time.<\/p>\n<h3>Mother doesn't seem interested in her litter<\/h3>\n<p>Puppy farmers sometimes switch out unhealthy mothers with a healthier looking dog to reassure you about the health of the litter.<\/p>\n<p>If the 'mother' doesn't seem interested in or protective of her litter then it's possible she's not the real mother. If she's been nursing, her teats should be somewhat more visible than normal, so that's something to look for.<\/p>\n<p>If mother and puppies seem anxious or scared by your presence this is also a warning sign, irrespective of whether the mother has been swapped out or not. Puppies are inquisitive and tend to be interested in new people. If they're reluctant to approach you or seem scared of you, it's time to question the environment they've been raised in. They may not have been socialised properly - with humans and even other dogs - or may have been mistreated by the breeder.<\/p>\n<h3>The breeder has little knowledge of the breed<\/h3>\n<p>Each breed of dog has particular characteristics and hereditary illnesses specific to the breed, so it's important that breeding dogs are screened for such issues to reduce the chance that they'll be passed down to their offspring.<\/p>\n<p>Ask the breeder if they've carried out such tests and even quiz them on their knowledge of breed-specific hereditary illnesses. Any reputable dealer should have a wealth of experience and a solid understanding of the characteristics of the breed they're selling.<\/p>\n<p>If their responses appear to betray a lack of knowledge or care, walk away.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/puppies-tub-farm-factory-mill.jpg\" alt=\"Puppies living in poor conditions at puppy farm\">\n    <figcaption>Credit: Scottish SPCA<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<h3>The breeder doesn't want to answer questions or doesn't ask any<\/h3>\n<p>If a breeder is reluctant to answer your questions it may be that they don't have sufficient knowledge to answer, or perhaps they have something to hide.<\/p>\n<p>A reputable breeder will be accustomed to talking about the breed and about their approach to breeding animals.<\/p>\n<p>They should also question you about your own circumstances, to ensure that the puppy is going to an appropriate home. A breeder not interested in where the puppy will spend the rest of its life clearly isn't interested in the wellbeing of the animals that they're selling.<\/p>\n<p>Some other warning signs:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>Breeder will only accept cash payment.\n    <li>You feel rushed into making an agreement or exchange.\n    <li>You're expected to pay a deposit for a puppy you haven't met.\n    <li>Puppy has existing health issues but the breeder claims this is typical for the breed.\n    <li>No documentation provided for vaccinations or health checks.\n    <li>Puppy hasn't been microchipped (it's a legal requirement that dogs are microchipped at the point of sale).\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Alternatives<\/h3>\n<p>There are many reputable, licensed dealers operating throughout the UK who breed dogs responsibly, prioritising the wellbeing of their animals and who have genuine enthusiasm for improving their chosen breed. They often run small-scale operations, sometimes from home, where living conditions allow the puppies in their care to thrive and develop into healthy, well adjusted adult dogs. You should be able to visit their premises and feel reassured by what you find there.<\/p>\n<p>Whilst you may pay a little more than you'd like to, that's a price worth paying if the dog you're going to learn to love and cherish has been provided with the best possible start to its life.<\/p>\n<p>If you have any doubt about the legitimacy of such an operation you should walk away and consider <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rspca.org.uk\/getinvolved\/campaign\/puppytrade\" target=\"_blank\">reporting your concerns<\/a>.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-cage-paws.jpg\" alt=\"Dog enclosed in small cage\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>The cultural shift that led to employers accommodating or even encouraging remote working during the Coronavirus pandemic still offers benefits to many pet owners, but there are notable examples of employers enforcing return-to-office (RTO) policies for at least a part of the working week, if not full-time.<\/p>\n<p>As feared, RTO policies - alongside the cost of living crisis - have resulted in dog rehoming and rescue centres being busier than ever before. Significant increases in the cost of vet bills and pet food have played a part in this, with people not being able to afford to take care of their pets, and dog shelters struggling financially to meet the needs of the animals in their care.<\/p>\n<p>The PDSA report we mentioned at the beginning of this article cites statistic from YouGov that show that in 2024 only 17% of dog owners acquired their dogs from rehoming centres, down from 22% in 2018.<\/p>\n<p>While rescue dogs can sometimes be more difficult due to their past experiences (not to mention the criteria for rehoming often being quite restrictive), owning a rescue can also be more rewarding than buying a puppy. But don't be tempted to turn to Gumtree or similar platforms as this could lead to many of the same pitfalls as buying from an unlicensed puppy dealer. A reputable rescue centre will carry out all the necessary health checks and vaccinations prior to rehoming a dog.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Remember: you can't save a puppy from a puppy farm. If you knowingly support a puppy farm you will just make the problem worse and subject more dogs to years of trauma and poor health.<\/strong><\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-05-25 13:48:45","updated":"2024-07-14 11:36:07","author":"1","category":"5","status":"published","comments":"1"}},{"data":{"id":"6","title":"7 Ways to Make Your Garden Safe for Pets","slug":"7-ways-to-make-your-garden-safe-for-pets","description":"","markdown":"With warm weather on the way many of us are itching to get out in the garden to enjoy the sun, and it's natural that we'd want our pets to join us.\n\nCats and dogs are naturally inquisitive creatures - particularly when young - so it's important to be confident that your fur babies won't come across anything hazardous as they explore. And whilst the health and wellbeing of your pets is the priority, another concern is the damage pets can do in the garden if given free rein.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cat-garden-fence.jpg\" alt=\"Cat walking along garden fence\">\n<\/figure>\n\nThere's also a risk that unless you take some simple precautions, your pets could make your garden less safe for you and your family.\n\nOur quick guide to making your garden pet safe should help you avoid some common pitfalls and ensure the health of your pets, your family and your plants!\n\n<h2>1. Avoid plants that are toxic to animals<\/h2>\n\nThere are many popular types of garden plant that are toxic to either cats or dogs, and some that are toxic to both.\n\nPuppies and food-driven adult dogs are most at risk thanks to their enthusiasm for exploring then ingesting or rolling in potentially harmful substances.\n\n<strong>Lilies<\/strong> are perhaps the most dangerous plant when ingested by cats, with even a very small amount likely to prove fatal.\n\n<strong>Bluebells<\/strong>, <strong>yew berries and foliage<\/strong>, <strong>rhododendron<\/strong> and <strong>onion<\/strong> can be fatal to dogs.\n\nBoth cats and dogs are badly affected by <strong>foxglove seeds and leaves<\/strong>, <strong>azalea<\/strong>, <strong>cyclamen root<\/strong> and <strong>rhubarb leaves<\/strong>.\n\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n\t<a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/poisonous-plants-pets-infographic.png\">\n\t\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/poisonous-plants-pets-infographic.png\" alt=\"Infographic showing various plants poisonous to pets\">\n\t<\/a>\n\t<figcaption>Source: PetMD<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\nThere are many other species of plant that can be harmful to pets so we'd recommend taking a bit of time to read this exhaustive list and then either remove these plants from your garden or prevent access to them. Good luck keeping your cat out of anything - removal is probably the only option for plants harmful to felines!\n\nIf you suspect your dog or cat has ingested anything on this list then you must seek veterinary advice immediately.\n\nIt may also be worth keeping some 3% hydrogen peroxide at home in case of an emergency, as this can be used to induce vomiting in dogs. <strong>Do not give hydrogen peroxide to your cat<\/strong> as it can damage their oesophagus and stomach, and <strong>only give it to dogs when advised to by a qualified veterinary surgeon<\/strong> as it's not always safe to induce vomiting in dogs.\n\n<h2>2. Prevent access to your compost bin<\/h2>\n\nComposting is an environmentally friendly way to improve the soil in your garden, but it's important that you keep cats and dogs away from your compost bin. As food and garden waste breaks down, mould will begin to form, and some moulds will produce tremorogenic mycotoxins that can cause tremors and seizures in animals. In fact, mycotoxicosis can prove fatal even in large dogs and if you have reason to believe your cat or dog has raided the compost bin, you should seek veterinary advice immediately.\n\nDue to the nature of the waste typically found in compost bins, they tend to be a magnet for food-driven pets. Enclosed bins or tumblers are the best choice if you have pets as they're  difficult to get into as long as you ensure lids are firmly secured. A secure compost bin will also help discourage pests such as foxes, rats, mice and even flies.\n\nMature compost is usually safer for animals but can still pose a risk, so you should take care not to allow them to ingest any compost or garden soil.\n\nSome keen gardeners use cocoa shells or hulls as an effective weed-free, organic mulch. However, pet owners should avoid cocoa mulch as it contains theobromine, which is harmful to animals, including cats, dogs and even horses.\n\n<h2>3. Avoid use of harmful pesticides, insecticides, fertilisers and herbicides<\/h2>\n\nMany plant and lawn treatments can be harmful to animals and care should be taken to select products that are deemed pet-safe - or alternatively you should ensure pets are kept away from the affected areas until it's safe to allow them to return.\n\nIf toxic levels of such products are ingested or inhaled by domestic pets, they may suffer seizures or respiratory arrest. Long-term, low-level exposure may also cause cancers and other chronic illnesses, so the safest approach is to avoid the use of harmful treatments entirely and source products that are marketed as pet-safe.\n\nIt's also worth noting that the active ingredient in most slug pellets - metaldehyde - is extremely toxic to domestic pets even in small amounts. That said, slugs and snails can cause lungworm if ingested by animals (not to mention the damage they'll cause to your plants), so try to keep on top of your slug or snail problem with organic, pet-safe control pellets.\n\nRodent poison should in no circumstances be used in a garden frequented by pets, with humane traps the most effective alternative.\n\n<h2>4. Keep a lookout for mushrooms, toadstools and other fungi<\/h2>\n\nFungi can proliferate in garden lawns and flowerbeds, particularly during the wetter autumn months, and the types that appear in gardens do tend to be inedible and toxic to animals.\n\nWe know how curious our pets can be - they're natural scavengers after all - so it's no surprise that cats and dogs have fallen ill with mushroom toxicity. Symptoms vary but may include dizziness, vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and hallucinations. Some species of mushroom may lead to liver, kidney or even heart failure and therefore it's critical that you seek veterinary advice if you suspect your pet has ingested mushrooms from the garden or while out walking.\n\nEvery so often have a good look around your garden and remove any mushrooms growing either in the lawn, flowerbeds or borders. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after handling.\n\n<h2>5. Cover ponds or ensure there's an escape route<\/h2>\n\nSome dogs are extremely strong swimmers, but not all, and older dogs in particular are at risk if they fall into a pond. Ponds are also bad news for other domesticated and wild animals, including cats, rabbits and hedgehogs.\n\nWhile hedgehogs are actually quite strong swimmers, if your pond has steep sides that would prevent an animal from easily escaping, they'll exhaust themselves and eventually drown - not a great way to go. Ponds with sides that slope gradually down are typically much safer for animals but if your pond isn't animal safe, you should think about covering it.\n\nSome types of pond algae can also be harmful to animals and should be removed with a pet-safe algae control solution.\n\n<h2>6. Fix any gaps in fences and ensure gates are lockable<\/h2>\n\nEvery dog owner's nightmare is the prospect of their beloved pooch getting out of the garden or house and running into a busy road.\n\nTo avoid this horror scenario make sure fences are tall and robust enough to keep your dog out of harm's way. Regularly check the boundary of your garden for gaps in panels and look for any evidence of digging - dogs have been known to escape gardens by squeezing through the smallest gaps or digging under fences. Gates should be bolted from the inside when your dog is using the garden.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n\t<img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/rabbit-garden-lawn.jpg\" alt=\"Domesticated rabbit running on garden lawn\">\n<\/figure>\n\nEven the most obedient dogs may run away when there's a cat to chase, so don't just assume your dog would never try to escape. We feel pretty confident that 99% of the time our greyhound would be too lazy to bother trying to escape, but if a rabbit or squirrel tempted him there's no telling how far or how fast he'd run, and the consequences don't bear thinking about.\n\n<h2>7. Remove any animal waste immediately to prevent harm to your family<\/h2>\n\nDog and cat waste may contain Campylobacter, E. coli, Salmonella, Yersinia and various other bacteria that can cause serious illness in humans.\n\nAnimal waste may also contain parasites such as roundworm and tapeworm - in fact, one pile of dog poo may contain as many as a million roundworm eggs! Roundworm larva can migrate throughout the body and may even cause blindness.\n\nCat poo commonly contains Toxoplasma gondii which can infect people with weakened immune systems and cause birth defects.\n\nSo it goes without saying that animal waste should be collected and disposed of immediately. Cats and dogs should also be discouraged from pooping on lawns, in flowerbeds and particularly anywhere that vegetables are grown.\n\nIn fact, it's probably wise to keep animals of any type as far away from your vegetable patch as possible, not only to prevent damage to your crop but also to avoid your pets from becoming ill when they eat something they shouldn't.\n\nSome people will recommend composting dog and cat poo but unless you know what you're doing, this isn't a good idea. The conditions necessary to break down this type of animal waste are quite difficult to achieve and if you get it wrong, your compost is likely to become extremely unhealthy.\n\n<strong>It's not only your pets that we're trying to protect here, but the health and wellbeing of your entire family.<\/strong>","html":"<p>With warm weather on the way many of us are itching to get out in the garden to enjoy the sun, and it's natural that we'd want our pets to join us.<\/p>\n<p>Cats and dogs are naturally inquisitive creatures - particularly when young - so it's important to be confident that your fur babies won't come across anything hazardous as they explore. And whilst the health and wellbeing of your pets is the priority, another concern is the damage pets can do in the garden if given free rein.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/cat-garden-fence.jpg\" alt=\"Cat walking along garden fence\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>There's also a risk that unless you take some simple precautions, your pets could make your garden less safe for you and your family.<\/p>\n<p>Our quick guide to making your garden pet safe should help you avoid some common pitfalls and ensure the health of your pets, your family and your plants!<\/p>\n<h2>1. Avoid plants that are toxic to animals<\/h2>\n<p>There are many popular types of garden plant that are toxic to either cats or dogs, and some that are toxic to both.<\/p>\n<p>Puppies and food-driven adult dogs are most at risk thanks to their enthusiasm for exploring then ingesting or rolling in potentially harmful substances.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Lilies<\/strong> are perhaps the most dangerous plant when ingested by cats, with even a very small amount likely to prove fatal.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Bluebells<\/strong>, <strong>yew berries and foliage<\/strong>, <strong>rhododendron<\/strong> and <strong>onion<\/strong> can be fatal to dogs.<\/p>\n<p>Both cats and dogs are badly affected by <strong>foxglove seeds and leaves<\/strong>, <strong>azalea<\/strong>, <strong>cyclamen root<\/strong> and <strong>rhubarb leaves<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image too-long\">\n    <a href=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/poisonous-plants-pets-infographic.png\">\n        <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/poisonous-plants-pets-infographic.png\" alt=\"Infographic showing various plants poisonous to pets\">\n    <\/a>\n    <figcaption>Source: PetMD<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n<p>There are many other species of plant that can be harmful to pets so we'd recommend taking a bit of time to read this exhaustive list and then either remove these plants from your garden or prevent access to them. Good luck keeping your cat out of anything - removal is probably the only option for plants harmful to felines!<\/p>\n<p>If you suspect your dog or cat has ingested anything on this list then you must seek veterinary advice immediately.<\/p>\n<p>It may also be worth keeping some 3% hydrogen peroxide at home in case of an emergency, as this can be used to induce vomiting in dogs. <strong>Do not give hydrogen peroxide to your cat<\/strong> as it can damage their oesophagus and stomach, and <strong>only give it to dogs when advised to by a qualified veterinary surgeon<\/strong> as it's not always safe to induce vomiting in dogs.<\/p>\n<h2>2. Prevent access to your compost bin<\/h2>\n<p>Composting is an environmentally friendly way to improve the soil in your garden, but it's important that you keep cats and dogs away from your compost bin. As food and garden waste breaks down, mould will begin to form, and some moulds will produce tremorogenic mycotoxins that can cause tremors and seizures in animals. In fact, mycotoxicosis can prove fatal even in large dogs and if you have reason to believe your cat or dog has raided the compost bin, you should seek veterinary advice immediately.<\/p>\n<p>Due to the nature of the waste typically found in compost bins, they tend to be a magnet for food-driven pets. Enclosed bins or tumblers are the best choice if you have pets as they're  difficult to get into as long as you ensure lids are firmly secured. A secure compost bin will also help discourage pests such as foxes, rats, mice and even flies.<\/p>\n<p>Mature compost is usually safer for animals but can still pose a risk, so you should take care not to allow them to ingest any compost or garden soil.<\/p>\n<p>Some keen gardeners use cocoa shells or hulls as an effective weed-free, organic mulch. However, pet owners should avoid cocoa mulch as it contains theobromine, which is harmful to animals, including cats, dogs and even horses.<\/p>\n<h2>3. Avoid use of harmful pesticides, insecticides, fertilisers and herbicides<\/h2>\n<p>Many plant and lawn treatments can be harmful to animals and care should be taken to select products that are deemed pet-safe - or alternatively you should ensure pets are kept away from the affected areas until it's safe to allow them to return.<\/p>\n<p>If toxic levels of such products are ingested or inhaled by domestic pets, they may suffer seizures or respiratory arrest. Long-term, low-level exposure may also cause cancers and other chronic illnesses, so the safest approach is to avoid the use of harmful treatments entirely and source products that are marketed as pet-safe.<\/p>\n<p>It's also worth noting that the active ingredient in most slug pellets - metaldehyde - is extremely toxic to domestic pets even in small amounts. That said, slugs and snails can cause lungworm if ingested by animals (not to mention the damage they'll cause to your plants), so try to keep on top of your slug or snail problem with organic, pet-safe control pellets.<\/p>\n<p>Rodent poison should in no circumstances be used in a garden frequented by pets, with humane traps the most effective alternative.<\/p>\n<h2>4. Keep a lookout for mushrooms, toadstools and other fungi<\/h2>\n<p>Fungi can proliferate in garden lawns and flowerbeds, particularly during the wetter autumn months, and the types that appear in gardens do tend to be inedible and toxic to animals.<\/p>\n<p>We know how curious our pets can be - they're natural scavengers after all - so it's no surprise that cats and dogs have fallen ill with mushroom toxicity. Symptoms vary but may include dizziness, vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and hallucinations. Some species of mushroom may lead to liver, kidney or even heart failure and therefore it's critical that you seek veterinary advice if you suspect your pet has ingested mushrooms from the garden or while out walking.<\/p>\n<p>Every so often have a good look around your garden and remove any mushrooms growing either in the lawn, flowerbeds or borders. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after handling.<\/p>\n<h2>5. Cover ponds or ensure there's an escape route<\/h2>\n<p>Some dogs are extremely strong swimmers, but not all, and older dogs in particular are at risk if they fall into a pond. Ponds are also bad news for other domesticated and wild animals, including cats, rabbits and hedgehogs.<\/p>\n<p>While hedgehogs are actually quite strong swimmers, if your pond has steep sides that would prevent an animal from easily escaping, they'll exhaust themselves and eventually drown - not a great way to go. Ponds with sides that slope gradually down are typically much safer for animals but if your pond isn't animal safe, you should think about covering it.<\/p>\n<p>Some types of pond algae can also be harmful to animals and should be removed with a pet-safe algae control solution.<\/p>\n<h2>6. Fix any gaps in fences and ensure gates are lockable<\/h2>\n<p>Every dog owner's nightmare is the prospect of their beloved pooch getting out of the garden or house and running into a busy road.<\/p>\n<p>To avoid this horror scenario make sure fences are tall and robust enough to keep your dog out of harm's way. Regularly check the boundary of your garden for gaps in panels and look for any evidence of digging - dogs have been known to escape gardens by squeezing through the smallest gaps or digging under fences. Gates should be bolted from the inside when your dog is using the garden.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n    <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/rabbit-garden-lawn.jpg\" alt=\"Domesticated rabbit running on garden lawn\">\n<\/figure>\n<p>Even the most obedient dogs may run away when there's a cat to chase, so don't just assume your dog would never try to escape. We feel pretty confident that 99% of the time our greyhound would be too lazy to bother trying to escape, but if a rabbit or squirrel tempted him there's no telling how far or how fast he'd run, and the consequences don't bear thinking about.<\/p>\n<h2>7. Remove any animal waste immediately to prevent harm to your family<\/h2>\n<p>Dog and cat waste may contain Campylobacter, E. coli, Salmonella, Yersinia and various other bacteria that can cause serious illness in humans.<\/p>\n<p>Animal waste may also contain parasites such as roundworm and tapeworm - in fact, one pile of dog poo may contain as many as a million roundworm eggs! Roundworm larva can migrate throughout the body and may even cause blindness.<\/p>\n<p>Cat poo commonly contains Toxoplasma gondii which can infect people with weakened immune systems and cause birth defects.<\/p>\n<p>So it goes without saying that animal waste should be collected and disposed of immediately. Cats and dogs should also be discouraged from pooping on lawns, in flowerbeds and particularly anywhere that vegetables are grown.<\/p>\n<p>In fact, it's probably wise to keep animals of any type as far away from your vegetable patch as possible, not only to prevent damage to your crop but also to avoid your pets from becoming ill when they eat something they shouldn't.<\/p>\n<p>Some people will recommend composting dog and cat poo but unless you know what you're doing, this isn't a good idea. The conditions necessary to break down this type of animal waste are quite difficult to achieve and if you get it wrong, your compost is likely to become extremely unhealthy.<\/p>\n<p><strong>It's not only your pets that we're trying to protect here, but the health and wellbeing of your entire family.<\/strong><\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-04-14 11:18:06","updated":"2024-07-13 18:19:40","author":"1","category":"7","status":"published","comments":"1"}},{"data":{"id":"5","title":"Death by Chocolate: Why Easter Can Be Dangerous for Dogs","slug":"death-by-chocolate-why-easter-can-be-dangerous-for-dogs","description":"","markdown":"Despite Good Friday still being a couple weeks away, reports of dogs falling unwell after stealing Easter eggs are already finding their way into the news.\n\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.thekennelclub.org.uk\/media-centre\/2021\/march\/the-kennel-club-warns-of-easter-risks\/\" target=\"_blank\">According to the Kennel Club<\/a>, insurance claims for chocolate-related poisoning incidents increase by 235 percent over a four week period around Easter. A <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dailyrecord.co.uk\/lifestyle\/food-drink\/vet-issues-easter-warning-dog-26679291\">recent study<\/a> has also revealed that one in five dog owners were forced to rush their pet to the vet after raiding the chocolate stash over the Easter period. That's as many as 500,000 pets who required veterinary assistance over the Easter weekend!\n\nOf course this can partly be explained by the huge amount of chocolate purchased in the run up to Easter, but an issue that's exacerbated by the fact that so many pet owners fail to understand the danger that chocolate poses to their furry friends.\n\n<figure class=\"image\">\n  <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-bunny-ears-easter-egg.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Easter eggs can pose a danger to dogs\">\n<\/figure>\n\n<h2>Why is chocolate dangerous to dogs?<\/h2>\n\nChocolate contains a chemical called theobromine that can't be metabolised - or broken down - by many domestic animals. Theobromine is therefore toxic to dogs and cats, and can damage your pet's heart, central nervous system, kidneys and other key organs.\n\nDarker chocolate tends to contain more theobromine and the quantity that poses an immediate danger depends on the weight of the animal. That said, <strong>the wise approach is to prevent your pet from eating any chocolate at all<\/strong>.\n\nCats will usually leave sweet food alone unless coaxed to eat it, but many dogs have a sweet tooth and will actively seek out chocolate. Some will consume chocolate until it's all gone, which is part of the reason Easter can be a dangerous time, as large amounts of chocolate may be left in accessible locations around your home.\n\n<h2>What are the symptoms of theobromine poisoning?<\/h2>\n\nSymptoms of theobromine poisoning in animals include:\n\n<ul>\n\t<li>elevated heartbeat;<\/li>\n\t<li>diarrhea;<\/li>\n\t<li>vomiting;<\/li>\n\t<li>heavy breathing or panting;<\/li>\n\t<li>restlessness;<\/li>\n\t<li>excessive thirst;<\/li>\n\t<li>frequent urination; and<\/li>\n\t<li>seizures.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<h2>What to do if your dog eats chocolate<\/h2>\n\nIf you suspect your dog has eaten a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vets-now.com\/dog-chocolate-toxicity-calculator\/\" target=\"_blank\">toxic amount of chocolate<\/a> you should contact a vet immediately. Take note of the type and volume of chocolate you think has been consumed and share this with your vet, along with your dog's weight and the symptoms they are experiencing.\n\nIf your regular veterinary clinic is closed they may have an emergency number you can call, but don't be discouraged and give up - theobromine poisoning can be fatal even to larger breeds and it's important that you speak to a vet as soon as possible.\n\nWhile it's relatively rare for theobromine poisoning to lead to death, it may still result in significant illness and costly vet bills, so prevention is certainly the best cure.\n\n<h2>Non-chocolate Easter hazards<\/h2>\n\nWhat with the risk of getting nailed to a cross, Easter has always been a bit of a hazardous time for some, but who knew it was so dangerous for dogs.\n\nAnd it's not just chocolate you need to hide from your pooch. Both hot cross buns and simnel cake contain sultanas, currants and raisins, all of which can be fatal to dogs (and cats).\n\nSo be sure to keep your seasonal treats out of reach this Easter to avoid your pets mistaking them for their own treats.\n","html":"<p>Despite Good Friday still being a couple weeks away, reports of dogs falling unwell after stealing Easter eggs are already finding their way into the news.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thekennelclub.org.uk\/media-centre\/2021\/march\/the-kennel-club-warns-of-easter-risks\/\" target=\"_blank\">According to the Kennel Club<\/a>, insurance claims for chocolate-related poisoning incidents increase by 235 percent over a four week period around Easter. A <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dailyrecord.co.uk\/lifestyle\/food-drink\/vet-issues-easter-warning-dog-26679291\">recent study<\/a> has also revealed that one in five dog owners were forced to rush their pet to the vet after raiding the chocolate stash over the Easter period. That's as many as 500,000 pets who required veterinary assistance over the Easter weekend!<\/p>\n<p>Of course this can partly be explained by the huge amount of chocolate purchased in the run up to Easter, but an issue that's exacerbated by the fact that so many pet owners fail to understand the danger that chocolate poses to their furry friends.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"image\">\n  <img src=\"\/themes\/chouchou\/img\/dog-bunny-ears-easter-egg.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Easter eggs can pose a danger to dogs\">\n<\/figure>\n<h2>Why is chocolate dangerous to dogs?<\/h2>\n<p>Chocolate contains a chemical called theobromine that can't be metabolised - or broken down - by many domestic animals. Theobromine is therefore toxic to dogs and cats, and can damage your pet's heart, central nervous system, kidneys and other key organs.<\/p>\n<p>Darker chocolate tends to contain more theobromine and the quantity that poses an immediate danger depends on the weight of the animal. That said, <strong>the wise approach is to prevent your pet from eating any chocolate at all<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Cats will usually leave sweet food alone unless coaxed to eat it, but many dogs have a sweet tooth and will actively seek out chocolate. Some will consume chocolate until it's all gone, which is part of the reason Easter can be a dangerous time, as large amounts of chocolate may be left in accessible locations around your home.<\/p>\n<h2>What are the symptoms of theobromine poisoning?<\/h2>\n<p>Symptoms of theobromine poisoning in animals include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n    <li>elevated heartbeat;<\/li>\n    <li>diarrhea;<\/li>\n    <li>vomiting;<\/li>\n    <li>heavy breathing or panting;<\/li>\n    <li>restlessness;<\/li>\n    <li>excessive thirst;<\/li>\n    <li>frequent urination; and<\/li>\n    <li>seizures.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>What to do if your dog eats chocolate<\/h2>\n<p>If you suspect your dog has eaten a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vets-now.com\/dog-chocolate-toxicity-calculator\/\" target=\"_blank\">toxic amount of chocolate<\/a> you should contact a vet immediately. Take note of the type and volume of chocolate you think has been consumed and share this with your vet, along with your dog's weight and the symptoms they are experiencing.<\/p>\n<p>If your regular veterinary clinic is closed they may have an emergency number you can call, but don't be discouraged and give up - theobromine poisoning can be fatal even to larger breeds and it's important that you speak to a vet as soon as possible.<\/p>\n<p>While it's relatively rare for theobromine poisoning to lead to death, it may still result in significant illness and costly vet bills, so prevention is certainly the best cure.<\/p>\n<h2>Non-chocolate Easter hazards<\/h2>\n<p>What with the risk of getting nailed to a cross, Easter has always been a bit of a hazardous time for some, but who knew it was so dangerous for dogs.<\/p>\n<p>And it's not just chocolate you need to hide from your pooch. Both hot cross buns and simnel cake contain sultanas, currants and raisins, all of which can be fatal to dogs (and cats).<\/p>\n<p>So be sure to keep your seasonal treats out of reach this Easter to avoid your pets mistaking them for their own treats.<\/p>","css":"","js":"","created":"2024-03-14 11:16:46","updated":"2024-07-13 18:19:05","author":"1","category":"5","status":"published","comments":"1"}}]}